The ‘Transmotion’ dress and the eponymous short film features mesmeric muse Carice van Houten, lensed by Ryan McDaniels.
The term transmotion depicts the process of change from one state and form, to another.
The ‘Transmotion’ dress radiates in a diaphanous bloom of white silk organza, translucent layers pleated within the confines of an undulating form. Contrasted against the frailty of the sheer petals, black branches of duchess satin were laser-cut, hand-stitched and form the central roots of the garment.
This geometric lattice recalls humankind’s inclination to tame nature. Beneath the surface, the branching also reveals the synonymity of mycorrhizal networks (the Wood Wide Web) and the symbiotic nature within human communities. Like fronds frozen in time, crystalline filaments sprout from the heart of the dress. Portraying delicate new life, black seed-like crystals punctuate the tip of each stamen like strand.
The concept of the creation stems from the notion of growth and regeneration. The seemingly simple seed is the embodiment of life and the potential that comes with it. A seed embedded upside down in dirt still sees the seedling growing the right way up. The dress follows symmetry in both its axis and without context, indiscernible which way is up or down. Motion and fluidity involved in the formation of tessellations highlight the capacity to shift between negatives and positives. Amidst an era when polarising ideologies are heightened, the work reflects upon the nature of perception.
“Working on this project felt like a new start. We have to surrender to the fact that things are in a state of change. I really don’t want to hold on too rigidly to the structure I’ve known before. Obviously I’m excited to work on a new collection for the January show, but honestly we just don’t know what direction the world is moving; we don’t know what’s going to happen.
I had a hard time surrendering to that in the beginning, but I’m quite okay with it at the moment. The most important lesson to me is to be flexible and to be open for change, and to use that space also to create a wider perspective. I think the fashion system will change, and this is a part of it. It’s important to not stop or to block yourself because it is [a] different [way of working]. I think we should also let go of the focus on quantity. I really don’t feel that more designs necessarily create a deeper meaning; it can actually be the opposite.” – Iris Van Herpen
[Photo Credit: Courtesy of Iris van Herpen – Video: Iris van Herpen via YouTube.com]
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