Mad Style: At the Codfish Ball

Posted on May 02, 2012

We’ll start off slow, with a couple snapshots of 1966 teen and tweenhood, upper middle class-style. This episode was the story of three daughters, and while Sally’s clothes definitely played a part and made an impact in this story, the costuming really worked its ass off telling the stories of Peggy and Megan, two young women whose choices often confound and disappoint their parents.

You wouldn’t need text to tell you that, in this scene, Abe and Peggy are a couple. Their tones of grey and black call back to each other, as do their similar necklines. And since this scene was all about the tension between Peggy’s professional life and her romantic one, as soon as she stands up, we get that flash of red kickpleat in her skirt, tying her to Stan and Ginsberg, both of whom have touches of red in their clothes.

What’s great about Peggy and Joan is that they’re clearly more comfortable and open with each other than they’ve been in the past, but their clothes still tell the story of their vast differences. Joan is, of course, wearing something streamlined and extremely body conscious. Motherhood and impending divorce (presumably) haven’t changed her personal style. This is how she’s always done things. The neckline is almost cartoonish and we tend to think that serves as an illustration that Joan isn’t really taking these tight dresses seriously anymore. It’s not about getting men to respond to her and do her bidding like it was in the past. It’s an echo and a caricature of a set of priorities she may no longer have. It’s also notable that she’s wearing purple here because in times past, she wore purple in scenes dealing with romantic heartache and disappointment. Her experience in these matters is all over her costuming.

Peggy is, as she almost always is at the office, working some form of grownup Catholic schoolgirl uniform, which is perfect for this storyline because she came smack up against her own Catholic upbringing.

And here she is, after taking Joan’s pointed advice to go shopping, wearing something that looks like it came out of Joan’s reject pile. Not that Joan would ever wear a baby doll dress, but the bright pink color, squared neckline, and bow to top it all off is right out of the Holloway playbook. When Peggy wants to be pretty and girly and flirtatious (a role that doesn’t come naturally to her) she looks to Joan for guidance.

When Peggy walks through the office in this pale blue coat, she almost becomes invisible, so much does she blend in with the surroundings. Once again, she’s wearing something that evokes menswear – a plaid coat with lapels – because she’s working in a man’s world. Joan is working there too, but as we said, she’s working with the tools she’s always used. Which isn’t to say that Joan’s outfit is somehow inappropriate; just that her brilliant blue dress is about getting noticed and Peggy’s workman-like plaid is about fitting in. Ironically, Peggy does fit in and we’re pretty sure Joan doesn’t want to be noticed right now. People don’t suddenly change their style of dressing to fit their life circumstances, after all. We’re all stuck making the same style choices over and over again. Note, however, that both ladies are in shades of blue, even if those shades are miles apart. They still have a connection, no matter their differences.

Abe can put out all the Harvey’s Bristol Cream he can find; it’s not going to save this dinner from ending badly. From good Catholic schoolgirl, to coquette, and now to wife, Peggy’s cycling through all the roles she doesn’t actually have through her clothes this episode.

This is a highly unusual dress for her. That neckline is like nothing we’ve ever seen on her and the full skirt is more than a couple years out of style. These are church clothes to be worn for visits home; demure, ladylike and chaste. The shades of blue and green tie her into her surroundings, picking up the blues and greens of the table and couch.

Katharine comes in, all “Sacred Heart of Jesus” red and pink (“It’s very delicate.”), addressing her daughter’s boyfriend in the most biblical terms possible. “Abraham.” She’s almost literally wearing her Catholicism on her sleeve.

Or around her neck. Note that it’s a celtic cross, because Katharine is of Irish descent.

Like Peggy, she’s wearing her church clothes. We doubt these are the best she has, however. This is a decent outfit, but she wouldn’t bother wearing her best for a dinner like this. She wants to get in and out of there as quickly as possible, keeping her hat on the whole time.

Not that she would have, in the context of the times, been expected to take her hat off, just that, in the context of the scene it reinforces how little she wants to be there.

The city isn’t for her and she knows what goes on in her daughter’s life. There’s a sense of conflict in the clothes; the small-scale but busy floral pattern fights with Peggy’s more modern, ethnic-inspired print; the pops of red throughout her dress signaling the anger and disapproval right under the surface.

Meanwhile, in another part of town…

Another mother and daughter in conflicting shades and styles. This was a strong bit of costuming because the story tells us that these women are related and our eyes can see the physical resemblance, but the clothes are miles apart from each other. Marie is in a very Chanel-esque suit and hat (bien sûr) in a brilliant red, which evokes anger and sex, and Megan is in the latest in groovy Manhattan wear, in colors of green and blue (like the dress Peggy wore), which in this case evoke emotional coolness, but also money.

Touches of red seem to have defined the creative team this episode, but really, this gorgeous little tapestry style skirt was about giving Megan once again that touch of the exotic; that little something that reminds us unconsciously that she’s not American.

You wouldn’t realize it at first glance, but the costumes these ladies are wearing are calling back to each other. Metallics are big in 1966, so it’s not unusual that they’ve popped up so much this season on several of the women. Megan’s gold metallic shift evokes her money, but the shine and pattern, along with the gold lace collar treatment and complicated hair all call back to the Heinz exec’s wife’s costume.

What better way to illustrate that bond than by framing it in an ornate gold mirror and then having Ken’s wife enter the frame to serve as a contrast? She’s not a player in the drama to keep Heinz from leaving SCDP.

Money, money, money.

We see a little bit of a coming together with Megan and Marie’s clothes here. They’re in totally different color schemes, but they’re both wearing plaid coats, which match their dress and skirt, along with hats. Sally’s the outsider in this family tableau, wearing horizontal stripes in opposition to the plaids.

Peggy’s predilection for menswear-inspired looks gets thrown into stark relief against this getup, which couldn’t be softer or more traditionally feminine in comparison. Peggy’s outfit says “Isn’t this job the BEST?” and Megan’s says “I guess so…”

Megan’s brilliant pink coat and gown stand out against all the white, black and silver in the rest of the party. Despite this being Don’s night, she is at the very center of this group, the only person to whom all the other people are directly connected. In other words, it’s all about her.

And while this is fabulous and adorable and totally mod-stylish, even someone as relatively forward-thinking as Don wouldn’t allow his pre-teen daughter to go out in knee-high go-go boots, which had an even stronger sexual connotation in 1966 than they do now. You can see Megan’s influence all over this, from the up ‘do to the metallic elements.

Like Megan and Sally, Marie is in an up ‘do, wearing white gloves (which she conspicuously took off before talking to Roger) and a dress with metallic elements. The dress is glamorous and expensive-looking, which makes sense for a woman who’s always in competition with her daughter. It’s not too youthful for her, but it’s definitely a showy and sexy dress and you really don’t see any other woman in the room dressed so dramatically. Except Megan, of course.

The silver and black color scheme make her a perfect visual partner for the silver and black Roger Sterling. Even before it happened, you kinda knew what was going to happen.

This Regency-style dress was all the rage in the late ’60s and you would have seen any of a number of stars making a splash in very similar looks: Barbara Streisand, Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor all favored this style.

It reeked of Continental glamour, which makes it particularly appropriate for Megan, whose Frenchness is referenced constantly, no more so than in this episode. It also, like so much of what Megan wears, speaks to the money she’s spending. This is not a cheap dress by any stretch.

Different styles at a glance, but all three female characters are connected; done up in glitter, hairspray and expensive clothes, but still glumly sitting around a table, wallowing in their respective disappointments at the end of the night.

 

[Photo Credit: Ron Jaffe, Michael Yarish/AMC - Screencaps: tomandlorenzo.com]

    • EditKitten

      I adore that first dress Peggy was seen in — I’d buy that right now.

    • EditKitten

      I adore that first dress Peggy was seen in — I’d buy that right now.

      • marishka1

        I love the blouse portion of her dinner party dress. I’d wear that now with a pencil skirt.

      • fnarf

        The grey skirt with the red kick pleat? I actually gasped with pleasure when I saw that.

        • Glammie

          Yeah, I think it’s the only dress Peggy’s ever worn that I’ve really wanted.

        • EditKitten

          Yep, that’s the one — so! want! it!

        • formerlyAnon

           My favorite Peggy outfit ever.

          • http://twitter.com/mediapileup Beth Anderson

             Yes and I love that the only scene where she looked really cute and comfortable was where Abe was clearly the odd man out.

        • MK03

          It’s very reminiscent of her navy dress with the red kick pleats from last season. Which I also loved. They seem to like those slightly militaristic styles for Pegs, perhaps as a nod to her trailblazing?

      • shopgirl716

        Amen.  I’m chagrined to admit that I see a lot of my work clothing choices in Peggy’s wardrobe.  And I never went to Catholic school.

      • ballerinawithagun

        That red pleat was fabulous!

    • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

      That scene in the mirror STRONGLY recalled the scene with Betty & Mona in s1e2 – Ladies’ Room – where Mona puts on Betty’s makeup for her. That episode was all about Betty being childlike, wanting to fit in with her husband’s work scene and being treated as a child. Megan is in strong contrast with that role, but Sally seems to be filling her mother’s place in this episode.

      Great recap. Wednesday doesn’t feel right without Mad Style!  

      • Jessi03

        I’d forgotten about that scene!  It called me back to the mirror scene between Megan, Peggy, and Trudy from last season. 

    • Sobaika Mirza

      I covet Meghan’s pink gown. What a visual treat! 

      I would look like a stuffed sausage in it, but that is neither here nor there.

      • P M

         Ooh, gurl, can’t you see yourself in that gown, with some fab Asha Parekh hair, and some Sharmila Tagore eyeliner?
        Eeek, there needs to be a party for the Mad Men-obsessed brownies. Smooth cocktails, Asha Bhosle bad-girl music, 60s desi fashion, with the tight and slit-to-**there** kurtas, mixed with Western fashions at their wildest / bad-assest.
        Yeah, I have a vivid imagination.

        • Sobaika Mirza

          YES! Yes, yes, yes. I’ve been trying to channel her makeup for years.

          • P M

             Joint-girl-happy-scream: OHMYGODMETOOMETOO!!!

            • suz72350

              I’ll join you in that happy girl scream!

        • http://profile.yahoo.com/4DI4DEY55YHE6YENEHOFDMQDIM MP

          The top of Megan’s dress resembles a sari blouse, no? Also, i would like to come to this brownie party as well

          • P M

             It does, doesn’t it! And you are more than welcome to join in! The more the merrier :)

    • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

      Also! Megan’s outfit reminds me a lot of the slightly unflattering coral number she wore the day she and Don announced their engagement. It had the same weird waistline (don’t know what you call it) and sleeves, and was in the same color family. Interesting when she’s making another personal/professional move.

      • Sobaika Mirza

        Empire waist.

        • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

           I thought empire waist was right below the bustline? Which I don’t think exactly describes this. Both the dresses have waists that hit naturally and create a silhouette but look a little baggy somehow.

          • MissAnnieRN

            Megan’s empire waistline just happens to have a well fitted skirt through the waist instead of something that flows straight done from the fitted part of the bodice that ends somewhere near her 7/8th intercostal space.  Most definitely empire.

            • https://twitter.com/#!/rmccarthyjames RMJ12345

               My bad, my original phrasing wasn’t clear enough. Yes, I agree that the gown is definitely an empire waist! I was actually referring to the pink WORK outfit:
              http://wpc.4d27.edgecastcdn.net/004D27/Television/MadMenS5/MadStyleS5E7/mss5e7+17.jpg
              And the one from Tomorrowland that it reminds me of:
              http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FW86_jO7k_A/TL8nwQYkq7I/AAAAAAACIlc/oEW5T-qLfwk/s1600/Mad%2BMen%2BMad%2BStyle%2BSeason%2B4%2BFinale%2BM7.jpg

            • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

              My bad, my original phrasing wasn’t clear enough. Yes, I agree that the gown is definitely an empire waist! I was actually referring to the pink WORK outfit in the scene with Peggy, which reminded me of her engagement announcement coral outfit from Tomorrowland. Tried to post pics but they’re stuck in moderation.

            • MissAnnieRN

              The one with the belt and the little cable knit cashmere (?) sweater underneath?  It looks like it’s hitting her natural waist?

            • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

               Right, that’s what I’m trying to say (and failing I guess, LOL). The gown is empire, and the one with the belt has a natural waist that looks a little baggy. The color and the bagginess in the belted outfit reminds me of her coral outfit at the end of Tomorrowland.

          • Sobaika Mirza

            Hmmm I’m probably wrong then. It doesn’t look like her gown is sitting at her natural waist (especially from the front) and anything higher I usually lump into the ‘empire’ category. Someone with a better grasp on fashion terminology feel free to educate me!

            • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

              No no, you’re right, we’re just discussing different outfits! I’m talking about the one from work in the scene with Peggy, not the gown. Sorry for the confusion.

          • judybrowni

            Regency: TLo called it.

          • http://profile.yahoo.com/E6U7KYXBLIN6J3KTHNZRRWYO54 Gali

            It’s not a particular style- that what’s happens when you wear unstructured (soft fabric) clothes with a very slim belt – the waist is nipped in and shows, but as the belt is slim, flesh and cloth bunches up above and below and create that silhouette you’re talking about.

            • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

               You get exactly what I’m talking about! Thank you for articulating so much more clearly.

    • siriuslover

      I loved this post. And I think I want to jump back to this period, because pretty much all the clothes spoke to me positively. I want Megan’s gown, and her jumper dress, and Peggy’s coat.

      • Ms_Flyover

        I covet Peggy’s coat, which speaks volumes about which character I most identify with 

    • http://magnetgirl.tumblr.com Anika

      Peggy’s outfit says “Isn’t this job the BEST?” and Megan’s says “I guess so…”

      This exactly. Brilliant. I love these costumes.

    • http://www.facebook.com/jahna.peloquin Jahna Peloquin

      I’m surprised you didn’t note the idea of the futurity in Sally’s dress – a callback to the futuristic setting in the final scene of Megan’s Heinz pitch (I assume), with Sally as the future, the little girl that is growing up.

      • 3hares

        Wow, yeah! Sally totally is dressed like the little girl on the Moon Colony enjoying her spaghetti and pretending its beans.

      • HM3

        What a fantastic isight!

    • P M

      ‘wearing something that looks like it came out of Joan’s reject pile’: As usual, the boys said what was in our minds, MUCH better than we could have :). 

      I have to wonder how Joan’s style will evolve to suit the current fashions: She’s a single mom; plus, what’s the angle with her mother? Does Gail work? Or does Joan support her too? Because that will really impact Joan’s earnings.

      I agree with TLo’s observations on Megan’s clothing, and want to add: Georgian heroines, at least in romance novels, are sweet, innocent, sprightly girls, who bring an element of light into their men’s lives. Not that I would know *anything* about Georgian-era romance novels. Stop laughing! I saw you look at ‘Lady Featherington’s Manly Earl’ in Borders!!

      • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

        I had the sense that Joan’s mom is retired. She referred to working in the past, and her clothes seem very middle-class suburban.

      • formerlyAnon

        “Does Gail work? Or does Joan support her too? ”

        If Gail can stay home with the baby, she’ll save Joan more than she can eat. “Daycare” as a regulated business didn’t exist as far as I know – Joan will more than likely be paying a sitter if her mother can’t take the baby. And even if it’s someone who watches several children in her own home, that’ll add up fast.

    • PastryGoddess

      OMG…I’m going to keep reading this over and over again while watching the episode over and over again.

      I loved that gold dress Megan was wearing.  

      Julia Ormond is one hot (faux) french fox

      • AudreysMom

        I did think she was well cast in this episode but occasionally her french accent seemed a little too too.

    • mappermom

      I would kill to have that striped tapestry skirt that Megan wears in the office.  I gasped with delight when she walked in.

    • Isana Leshchinskaya

      i would KILL for both megan’s and her mother’s evening dresses. plus her little tribal skirt at the office.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

      Peggy’s pearl necklace in the “proposal” scene is also pink. We haven’t seen her wear this color before, so I’m guessing she bought it to go with the dress. 

      • http://deeplyproblematic.blogspot.com/ RMJ12345

         The pink dress reminds me of the blue number she wore to the strip club with the Playtex dudes. Both showed that she wasn’t really comfortable with either position – using T&A to get ahead and marriage – but wanted to give it a shot.

    • mommyca

      I was thinking that Megan’s outfit in the office, when she pitches her Heinz idea to Don, sort of falls into Peggy’s territory: a structured skirt and a demure top, showing that this time she meant business, and she wanted to be taken seriously…. 
      I love Peggy’s plaid coat…

    • charlotte

      When I first saw Sally in that metallic dress, I thought she looked like a little robot. Definitely very futuristic.
      That shot of Megan in the red dress is absolutely gorgeous!

    • Spicytomato1

      Ah, perfect timing, I had just sat down with some chocolate and tea. Mad Style completes my little indulgence break!

      “You wouldn’t realize it at first glance, but the costumes these ladies are wearing are calling back to each other.”

      I did! I did! And I felt like I was passing a midterm in Mad Style 101 when I noticed that and wondered what was going to unfold after their encounter in the ladies room.

      I don’t know why but I was so intrigued by Megan’s mom…at first it was a bit of confusion because I was thinking “she looks like Julia Ormond but she can’t be Julia Ormond…” Not sure why I didn’t think it could be her. But then seeing how different she was from Megan in temperament made me want to know more about her and their family dynamic. And when they breezed in from shopping with Sally, they were just so…glam, almost exotic.

      Of all the costumes I think my favorites were two of Megan’s. The blue turtleneck/tapestry skirt combo — perfect for the office. Mod and minimalist yet interesting and comfortable. And I thought she looked gorgeous in her gown.

      • MK03

        I had the same reaction to Julia Ormond. I sat there waffling back and forth, “Is that Julia Ormond? No, it can’t be…she’s to much of a ‘name’ to play a minor supporting role…but man, it really looks like her…”

        • http://twitter.com/foodycatAlicia foodycatAlicia

          Plus – christ on a bike am I old enough that Julia Ormond is playing the mother of a married woman?

      • http://www.facebook.com/jill.beifuss Jill Beifuss

        I didn’t notice it at the time, but as soon as I saw the first screencap, of them all at the table with Ken’s wife in her strong blue, I did. And I felt so proud!

    • NurseEllen

      Marie (Julia Ormond) looks stunning in everything she wears, and I covet that black, bejeweled gown of hers.  Megan’s orchid/pink color office dress reminded me of the kinds of outfits the Lettermen wore in album covers, for some reason.  I’m not sure how Don noticed, from across the room no less, that Sally was wearing any makeup–I couldn’t see it at all during the broadcast, and I don’t see much difference in these stills between before and after.  The go go boots were great!  Betty would have just had a breakdown if she had seen Sally dressed like that.  Which brings up a question: how come nobody every takes family photos to commemorate these events?  If I had been going out with my family, we sure would have had the camera out because we all looked so good.  Surely Don owns a camera?

      My viewing of these episodes has really become much more pointedly observant and critical, thanks to Tom & Lorenzo and all the great comments of the BKs.  I get so much more out of the show since I have my fashion faculties engaged.  Thank you, everyone!

      • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

         Don would own a Polaroid.

        • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

          Or a camera with slide film – like my family, many of the Draper family photos are in slide format, as we saw in ‘The Wheel’ (and they, too, will grow to regret this!).

    • Jennifer Coleman

      Definite echoes to other characters & situations for me in this episode.

      Peggy’s apartment & the shirtwaist dress reminded me of Pete & Trudy in their first apartment. Of course it’s totally a downmarket version, but the exotic set of prints above the couch hearkened back to the tryptich close to the door of the Campbell residence. Also, their similar family strife – pregnancy or lack thereof, city/suburb clash, failed parental dinner party, it’s all a reflection of each other’s story in a carnival mirror of sorts.

      Also, Marie’s initial red outfit immediately reminded me of one worn by Bobbie Barrett (I think it was in gold tones). I figured at some point she would be engaging in sexual activities in inappropriate location before the end of the episode because of it. I’m just glad it wasn’t with Don!

      • Spicytomato1

        Yeah, there was a short while I was nervous that something was going to happen between her and Don. And who knows maybe it would have if Roger hadn’t entered the picture.

        • Glammie

          But why bother with the mom when you’ve got the younger, hotter daughter?

          What I notice about Peggy’s place, besides the downmarket version of Pete and Trudy’s tribal prints, is the triple lock on the door. . . . the times they are a-changin’

          • Spicytomato1

            Megan is younger, of course, but I’m not sure I’d agree that she’s hotter. Marie has a sophistication, an attractive world weariness, that Megan does not. I started to imagine Don succumbing to her French (ish) charms.

            • Glammie

              I think even Don has his limits that way–he honestly didn’t seem to notice that Marie was hitting on him.  If nothing else, he doesn’t want to think of himself as generationally that “old.”  (I say this as someone in the Marie age range.)

          • http://twitter.com/gabyripples Gabriella

            Peggy also probably isn’t in the apartment price range to have a doorman yet. 

          • Sweetbetty

             The old Don never said no to any sexual opportunity with a hot woman; young, old, mother, daughter… didn’t matter.

            • Glammie

              No.  The old Don did have limits–we never saw him hook up with any of Betty’s friends.  He also, until Alison, avoided the secretaries at his office.  Even with Alison, he didn’t have his one-nighter with her until he was divorced AND really drunk.  He clearly never hooked up with Joan.  He also, until his divorce, seemed to avoid prostitutes.  He’s been shown as sort of a serial monogamist philanderer.  There are exceptions–like the stewardess and the California girl–but he’s mostly had one girlfriend on the side at a time.  He’s tended to have affairs more than flings. Roger’s actually more prone to the completely meaningless hook-up–esp. in the first season.

            • Sweetbetty

               What I meant, and should have specified, was that the old Don would never turn down an attractive woman coming on to him.  He brushed off Peggy, but she wasn’t hot enough for him.  I can’t recall if any of Betty’s friends ever came on to him; she saw Glenn’s mom talking to him at Sally’s BD party and put a quick stop to that.  But now that I think of it, I don’t think Don at any stage would engage in a sex act with his wife’s mother.  Nothing to do with having the younger, hotter daughter; he knows it would just be a totally bad idea.

            • Glammie

              Yep.  Every now and then Don shows some self-control–though he didn’t even seem to notice Megan’s mother that way.  He didn’t just turn down Peggy, he also turned down Jane who came on to him when she was his secretary.  He also broke up with Bobbie Barrett when it was clear that she had gossiped about him.

      • P M

         Good catch on Pete vs Peggy!

      • Sweetbetty

          What caught my attention was the exotic set of prints in close
        proximity to a portrait of JFK, another example of her struggle between
        her good Catholic upbringing and her desire to be modern and daring and
        forward thinking.

        • roadtrip1000

           There was a portrait of JFK? I am definitely going to have to buy myself a big screen TV – just so I can catch all the visual details in this show!

      • Cabernet7

        Funny, Marie’s red suit and fluffy red hat reminded me of Rachel Menkin.  I have no idea what that might mean.  And the earrings that Megan wore at the awards dinner looked just like earrings that Bobbie Barrett wore at Sardi’s, which come to think of it, Rachel was in that scene too.  Maybe I just miss Rachel?

    • cmb92191

      I really liked most of Peggy’s clothes this week (plaid jumper is the only miss!).  I love that gray dress with the red, even the dinner dress- if it was a blouse I’d wear that with a skirt.  Even her coat is cute.   

      I never realized how much Jessica Pare looks like Liv Tyler.   I love the black and white shopping dress.

    • MK03

      I love the tableau of that last pic. Such a theatrical way to end the scene, with all the principals slowly filing in and plunking down at the table, their disillusionment written all over their faces.

    • MilaXX

      Other than her work wear Peggy’s clothes really didn’t seem to fit her. She was obviously trying to dress to fit the occasion.
      I really loved Marie/Megan/Sally’s looks at dinner. If anyone wore them on the RC today I’d give them a thumbs up.

      • 3boysful

         I would wear Marie’s black gown this minute!  (Although it might be a bit much for a high school track meet . . . .)

        • mappermom

          Yep, my life is also more track meets than glamorous parties too.  I covet dressed I have no business owning.

    • http://www.lippsisters.com/ Deborah Lipp

      Megan’s gown continues to remind me of Bollywood.

      • Celandine1

         That was my first impression too. While the dress has a Regency silhouette, the short sleeves and neckline of the bodice look to me like the top worn with a sari. The metallic embellishment on the bodice, the bright coral color, and the jewelry all say Indian to me. Is this an intentional call back to Jane’s Eastern influenced outfit last week? Another nod to the rich and fashion forward?

        • HM3

          I was just going to say that the top half looks exactly like a sari blouse, with the jewelry really pushing the point further.

      • Sobaika Mirza

        Eastern inspirations were a big thing at this time. The Beatles in India and all that.

      • http://twitter.com/gabyripples Gabriella

        I see influences of both. My first thought was Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady, my next thought was India. 

        • http://twitter.com/Rossomaqa Rosomaqa

          My Fair Lady -  that was my first thought too. 

    • MK03

      Also, am I the only one who thought Megan’s tapestry skirt wasn’t very flattering? The fabric is so thick and heavy, and it makes her look like someone cut her off at the waist and stuck her on someone else’s hips.

      • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

         I see your point, but that look was very typical of the period- thick textured fabric with a nod towards looking hand made, but paired with a plain top. It’s a very faint upper class reflection of the Hippie style. At the time she’d have looked just great.

      • Jessi03

        I loved that skirt.  Like most of Megan’s clothes, I want to wear it.  That skirt in particular stuck out to me though as something I desperately needed for my closet.

      • mappermom

        The belt was too narrow for my taste.  Needs something wider to soften the line.

        • Susan Crawford

          I remember that belts were generally getting wider and wider as the decade wore on, and probably the belt for that ensemble would have been wider . . . or else perhaps a chain-style belt worn a little low on the waist? I had a chain belt with lion-heads that looked like classic brass door-knockers that I wore with skirts in that style at about that same period. It was by Anne Klein, as I recall, and I saved up to buy it because it was – for those days – terribly expensive for a college girl. (Probably about $35 or so . . . oh for a time machine to go back and SHOP!)

      • Sweetbetty

         I remember dresses like that, made to look like a sweater and skirt but actually one piece.  I wouldn’t be surprised if Megan’s was a dress.

        • http://twitter.com/foodycatAlicia foodycatAlicia

          I had one of those, a hand-me-down from an aunt who would have worn it in maybe 1970?

    • Chickadeep

      Megan’s shopping ensemble (plaid coat) would have seemed *so* chic in that era. If Trudy hadn’t decamped for the ‘burbs and gone all proto-Ice Storm housefrau, that’s what she’d be wearing these days. Peggy’s plaid coat and hat looks like a wardrobe reject from the first season of That Girl.

      The costuming in this episode was absolutely spot-on, right down to the background players. I mean, how much do we love the violet bouffant-sporting, brocade-and-mink-wearing matron behind Marie in the scene of her and Roger at the bar? There is a dowager dressed just like that in every fading photo of a black-tie soiree from that era.

      I had Sally’s striped dress, or a reasonable facsimile, in second grade. It was paired with red oxford shoes, blue tights, and a navy coat with toggle buttons. Oh, and my hair was done like that for special occasions. It’s actually freaking me out a little bit!

      • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

         Megan’s boyish hat is very Carnaby Street – the Swinging London look was the absolute latest thing in 1966.

      • wooohoo

        OMG! “proto-Ice Storm housefrau”!  I can’t stop laughing.  It’s true!

        • Chickadeep

          You KNOW Trudy’s going to be at a key party in the not-too-distant future, while little Tammy is stuck at home watching TV, being ignored by her weed-smoking, disaffected, tennis-playing teenage babysitter.

    • http://twitter.com/vickiro51 victoria rodeno

      I had a ’60′s flashback when I saw Sally in the go-go boots. I was 13 in 1965 and I bought a pair of go-go boots, only they were short. These were also really popular,like the girls on Shindig. My father also forbade me to wear them and I had to return them to the store. Maybe Sally will wear hip-hugger’s in future scenes. 

      • Spicytomato1

        Oh yeah, she’s just a few steps (and years) away from full-on hippie style. I can see her as an earnest counter culture intellectual.

        • Logo Girl

          I picture Sally hanging at CBGBs in 1974

          • ldancer

            Sally is totally going to be playing bass in a no-wave band. Did I post that on the initial thread for this episode? God, my memory sucks lately.

            • formerlyAnon

              That’s o.k. Bears repeating. 

      • 3boysful

         I remember that the wide leather belt we wore with our hip-huggers actually covered more of our behinds than the actual pants did!  ;)

      • barbarasingleterry

        In 8th grade I had a handmade shocking pink crocheted dressworn with a wide white crinkle vinyl belt and white crinkle vinyl boots just like Sally’s.  My grandma made the dress, shell stitch and very lacy, I needed to wear a nude slip under it. Mom accessorized it for me…. CA style was a lot less formal than NY

    • http://twitter.com/hdl_b Heather Barkman

      I don’t watch Mad Men (missed out at the beginning and now I feel like it’s such an undertaking to catch up), but I really enjoy these Mad Style posts – the attention to detail and insight is amazing and makes me feel like I’m not quite so out of the loop. Thanks TLo!

      • roadtrip1000

        Netflix carries all the previous seasons. You’ll have a ball watching them. Trust me, it won’t be an undertaking at all – more like a time-travel vacation full of intrigue.

    • twinkiecowboy

      Did anyone else think Peggy must have put up that picture of Kennedy just for her mother’s visit?

      • MK03

        I could swear I’ve seen it in other episodes, but I can’t remember for sure.

        • HM3

          There are places in the south where you still find pictures in every household of: Jesus, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., and Barack Obama. Makes me smile.

          • http://twitter.com/purpleprose78 purpleprose78

             And sometimes Elvis….

            • TheDivineMissAnn

              Elvis on black velvet, no less.

            • FloridaLlamaLover

              My uncle’s Mom (he married my Mom’s sister, so this lady wasn’t any blood relation to me) had a painting of Jesus, the lion, and the lamb on black velvet back in the 70′s. I remember sitting in her family room staring at it, and thinking: Elvis on black velvet: ok.  Jesus: not ok. And I was 10 years old! 

            • TheDivineMissAnn

              LOL  My husband’s parent’s had a Jesus on black velvet too!  It was a head shot with Jesus wearing the crown of thorns looking skyward, complete with blood dripping down the sides of his face from the wounds.  Prominently displayed in the living room, yessir.   My husband used to say  it was his inheritance and we would have it someday!  It hung in that living room until 2003.

      • Spicytomato1

        Haha, I wondered about that, too. I guessed, like my grandmother’s scary (to me) Jesus portrait, it had always been there and will always be there…until she vacates that apartment.

      • formerlyAnon

         No. I thought the picture of JFK was a blatant reminder of how much of her roots Peggy still carries with her. Her mother no doubt has the same picture, as well as one of the Pope. (She may be a dragon in Peggy’s eyes but I suspect she’d be o.k with most of Vatican II – she’s a realist in her way).

        • http://twitter.com/gabyripples Gabriella

          Except when that Vatican II-esque priest (played by Colin Hanks) came by and tried to say an informal grace. I dunno, she seemed pretty conservative to me.

          • formerlyAnon

             You might be right. I had forgotten that scene.

    • nycfan

      Great post, as always.  I thought they did a particularly nice job of having Megan and her mother’s outfits clearly mark them as mother/daughter without being matchy or mimicking one another, especially on the shopping trip and again at the awards dinner.  For the wife of a purported Marxist, Marie dresses like a bourgeois capitalist’s wife.

      Peggy’s pink dress would have been laughable had it not been such a sad situation, watching her hopes dashed and then her defiance emerge.  But I would buy the gray dress with the kick pleat to wear to work now if I could find it.  Peggy’s church dress to meet her mom reminded me a bit of Trudi’s party dress from a few weeks back, darker and more modern colors for Peggy, but similar out of fashion silhouette. 

      Any signs of what shoes Sally wore in lieu of the gogo boots?  Hard to believe she had a set of matching buster browns in her closet.

      • Spicytomato1

        I specifically kept an eye out for Sally’s replacement footwear. In the quick glimpse that I saw they looked like brownish gold sandals?

        • nycfan

           brownish gold, eh?  I just kept thinking of the sort of shoes I would have had (albeit in the 70s not 60s) had I been forbidden to wear the gogo boots and the selection would not have included anything to wear with that space dress. :)  OTOH, I wore white gogo boots and bright red gogo boots to kindergarten in 1974 in the small-town South (albeit to a pretty rad public montessori set up for the express purpose of integration).  In fact, I was surprised Don made her take those off when she took off the make-up b/c of my own recollection of wearing similar boots as a tyke.

        • http://twitter.com/gabyripples Gabriella

          I thought I just saw a pair of black ballerina flats, but I couldn’t be sure since the camera didn’t really linger. 

      • Maggie_Mae

        I’m sure Marie’s elegant attire is just one more way of saying “fuck you” to her husband.  Yes, he’ll keep having affairs with his students–who, no doubt, dress in Existentialist black.  (Was she once one of those students?)  

        She’ll continue to dress beautifully, have the occasional “adventure” & drink herself to sleep….

        • nycfan

           Speaking of Marie giving the big FU to Emile, it is sort of interesting to me the way Marie struck back at her husband by performing fellatio on a relative stranger, sort of like Peggy struck back at … what? The world?  by giving a stranger a hand job in a theater.  Neither was likely to result in any physical or emotional pleasure for the woman involved, IMO, but it was their way of acting out nonetheless. 

          • Glammie

            How many years are we from Erica Jong’s zipless fuck?  Four?  Five?

            • nycfan

              More like six or seven years, but light years in terms of these two encounters.
               

            • Glammie

              I don’t think it’s light years.  In both cases, the women are initiating sexual encounters without emotional strings.  Neither is the recipient of pleasure, but I think it is about asserting sexuality as a type of power. It’s a lot more overt and aggressive than Betty’s quickie.

            • nycfan

               Fair enough, I probably need to go back and re-read Fear of Flying at this point.  I always associated the (mutual) enjoyment of the no-strings-attached encounter to be part of the zipless fuck, but could have added that myself as a third waver.

            • Glammie

              Well, the irony of the actual book is that Isadora, when she finally gets her zipless fuck, doesn’t find it all that satisfying.  

          • formerlyAnon

             No physical pleasure, but there’s a certain kind of power involved that might be quite pleasurable for a woman in middle age whose husband cheats with younger women.

    • 3hares

      Brilliant post! I’m almost surprised you didn’t cover the outfit that seemed to be the most shocking that I read–poor Glen and his coat but no pants ensemble. It seemed to strike a lot of people as sleazy, but I liked the realism of it for him as a kid in boarding school. It said a lot about his life there.

      • formerlyAnon

         Yes. As the parent of a boy, it seemed pretty natural to me that he’d be wandering about in his underwear in an all male dorm. My son seems to think that boxer shorts are appropriate indoor attire if there’s “just family” home.  (And I have photos to prove that his father and uncles did the same thing at the same age, 30+ years ago.)

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=558631967 Ivona Foster

      Brilliant as usual!

      Regarding Peggy’s gaudy pink number, I can see the “Joan” elements you mention but it’s not a “Joan” dress to me . 

      In fact, here’s my comment on it from BoK 
      “I don’t think Peggy would try to pull of a “Joan” since that cringe- inducing time she tried in the bar with the clients.
      Peggy clearly doesn’t consider herself as very pretty and has low self-esteem. The whole get up to me, seemed like Peggy trying to look like she thought she should. She was wearing the whole package, the hair, make up, pearls and the dress and from the locked in smile on E. Moss face it read to me as “I’m playing a role”.
      The only thing that was pure Peggy was the watch.
      It wasn’t really about the dress being pink as much as it was just not a “Peggy dress”. It was a Trudy or Cynthia! dress, but not Peggy, not Joan and certainly not a Megan.”

      My favorite outfits in this episode were by far the shopping trip Megan/Marie set. Tre chic!

      • Jade Hawk

        cynthia in barbie-pink? not likely.

    • http://viridianpostcard.blogspot.com/ viridian61

      Great post as always.  And I noted the details such as the brooches almost all the ladies were wearing (but not Peggy) – I think my mom who was of this era had 20 or 30 brooches like these.

    • filmcricket

      It’s interesting: my interpretation of the scene with Abe at SCDP was that he was the odd man out. Ginzo’s in grey, Stan’s in red, Peggy’s in grey and red. This kind of reinforced the fact that he was clearly uncomfortable with the two guys discussing Peggy’s rack with such professional detachment, and got up to leave soon after. I have a horrible feeling Abe’s going to turn out to be a disappointment to Peggy: he might act all bohemian and unfettered, but he’s been shown before to be less than sympathetic to women’s civil rights, and he doesn’t see Peggy as marriage material, either because she’s too independent, or because she’s not Jewish. 

      • filmcricket

        Also meant to say: great post! And thank you, TLo, for the work you put into these.

      • Spicytomato1

        I kinda thought the same thing, although I could never articulate it quite as well. I definitely thought his discomfort with that conversation does not bode well for the future.

        • Glammie

          Yeah, I kind of like Abe, but he’s such a snob about advertising that it surprises me they ended up together.

        • Jessi03

          I definitely felt the discomfort, too, and obviously Peggy looks trapped between two worlds.  Love that Ginsberg is still wearing that same tie.  At least he found a cardigan instead of his Bar Mitzvah blazer!  

          • Sweetbetty

             Is he still wearing the same shirt every time we see him?

      • formerlyAnon

        Yes, EXACTLY my take on the future for Abe & Peggy & I’ve thought so since very soon after they met. I no longer remember the exact scene, but I recall thinking that he liked her intelligence, but was not at all surprised that she wasn’t as politically sophisticated as he saw himself to be, and definitely thought his work was more significant in the scheme of things than hers.

        I wondered about the not Jewish, but since the fancy dinner at which he DIDN’T propose – with (as Joe Johnson pointed out) NO lengthy apologia for not doing so, I am now pretty sure her religion is a formidable obstacle -either for his family or for him, or both.

        It would have rung so much truer to “true love” of the period if he’d addressed the idea of marrying, but they decided to live together because (choose all that apply) :1) his parents would disapprove, madly 2) her mom would disapprove, madly 3) Peggy wanted the proposal but would immediately get cold feet about a wedding 4) he found marriage to be an obsolete institution – either sincerely, or out of an unacknowledged reluctance to get married, *yet.*

        ETA: But I’m not sure Abe’s going to disappoint Peggy as much as she might think. As I’ve said before, she wants the proposal because she craves the emotional validation it represents. But I’m not convinced she’s ready, yet, for marriage because she hasn’t yet seen a model for marriage that will let her keep the emotional validation of her career. I anticipate that she’s either going to be relieved when they break up and/or initially heartbroken but able to get over it at a record pace – probably the instant of her next professional success.

        • Susan Crawford

          What a good observation! As I recall, despite the tumbling of conventional walls that marked this decade, despite the political and social upheaval, despite women having a greater sexual freedom than ever before, the idea of true equal rights for women was still not acceptable in men’s eyes – even men as progressive as Abe was.

          The first waves of the modern feminist movement had reached the shore, all right, but the tidal wave was still a couple years down the line at this point. I just hope that Peggy gets through what appears to be the start of a critical time for her – both professionally and personally. I suspect that she and Joan will end up growing to understand one another more deeply, and even to rely on one another during rough times.

          These two women – poles apart in most ways – have had an interesting relationship since episode 1, and I really look forward to seeing their story arcs in the future. Both have made incredibly hard decisions without a lot of support from society OR family; both are making their way through a male-dominated world; both pride themselves on their intelligence and ability to  make a contribution. I loved Joan’s support for Peggy after the  non-proposal. Joan saw another woman forging ahead despite a major set-back; she saw that Peggy had made a very tough decision, and she gave her the hug no-one gave her when she ended her marriage.

          And I, too, am glad Abe didn’t have a marriage proposal in mind, because I don’t think Peggy really is ready for marriage. She has a lot to experience, I think in the professional and self-awareness areas before marriage. 

        • ldancer

          Many an interfaith relationship has ended because one person needed to marry a fellow member of the tribe. It’s common today. Guess we’ll see if it’s an interesting enough plot device to use here.

          Edited to add, I’m talking about my people, The Jews. Never underestimate the power of Jewish guilt. Though…I married out.

          • formerlyAnon

            Ha! And not just guilt. There’s a whole culture there, and a lot of it is intentionally built around fostering shared experiences that provide a foundation which no one “outside the circle” is going to share.  Not the kind of thing that seems important at 18 or even 24, maybe, but by the time one is thinking long-term and maybe about raising children – it surfaces.

            I saw a similar phenomenon among my mother and the other moms from our (Catholic) church – at the time the state we lived in was maybe 7% Catholic and oh, those women worked *hard* to maximize the chances that their babies would eventually know plenty of “nice Catholic boys/girls” when it came time to settle down.

    • http://twitter.com/Selkiechick Selkiechick

      Sally outfit was great! When I saw those awesome white boots, I couldn’t help but think of the episode with the riding boots. The show is 2 for 2 in Sally getting awesome boots from a mother figure she doesn’t get to wear.

      • http://twitter.com/foodycatAlicia foodycatAlicia

        That outfit reminds me so much of the illustrations in Noel Streatfeild’s Gemma books, which was set late-60s.

        • Susan Crawford

          I adore Noel Streatfeild! And I have a feeling Sally might have read some of them – many of them are contemporaneous with her and touch on themes that would resonate with Sally.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

      Loved Peggy’s hat- very Jackie Kennedy. The outfit may have lacked color but it had a little flair to it.

      • SewingSiren

        I was thinking Marlo Thomas in That Girl.

        • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

           Yes- that too! Both of them owed a lot to the French school girl look in MADELINE.

        • http://www.GiftedCollector.com Nancy Abrams

          It is very Cardinali, nee Marilyn Lewis, the co-owner of Hamburger Hamlet restaurants, who had a great influence on fashion by designing Marlo Thomas’ clothes for that show. “That Girl” debuted in Fall 1966.

          • SewingSiren

            I had no idea who designed the dresses for that show. Thanks for the information. I looked up Marilyn Lewis, very interesting.

      • Mefein

         And speaking of Jackie Kennedy, I thought Peggy was also looking to Jackie somewhat for that non-engagement dinner, with that pink dress, pearls, and very Jackie hairdo.  And interesting that she still has a portrait of JFK on her wall.

        • roadtrip1000

          Peggy really did seem to be channeling Jackie Kennedy. Or at least she looked the way she thought others would expect her to look if she was going to be proposed to. Quite a contrast to the previous engagement-dinner-that-wasn’t with her last boyfriend. For that one she never even made it out of the office. Also – after his assassination portraits of Kennedy were everywhere in New York – in homes, store windows, offices, etc. As far as I can remember a lot of people has his picture up well into the 70s.

    • http://www.wordydoodles.com WordyDoodles

      Megan’s coat and hat when she went shopping with Marie and Sally= *perfect.* And, I’d wear those today.

      TLo’s screnshots helped me see a connection between Sally and Peggy, both wearing grey crewneck sweaters at the beginning. But poor Sally is keeping all sorts of secrets and lies. And Peggy is now doing more truth-telling. Wonder if we’ll see visual representations of truth/lies in the costuming.
       

    • JeanProuvaire

      J’adore Megan’s tapestry skirt even more now than I did on first viewing. And damn, is Julia Ormond gorgeous.

      I don’t think I picked up on Peggy’s awesome menswear-plaid coat when I first saw the ep, since the video quality wasn’t great and somehow I think my brain registered it as her usual green coat that she was wearing in the last episode, despite the colors being totally different. I love that plaid coat. I WANT that plaid coat. It totally makes up for the horror of the pink dress, which didn’t even seem to fit her properly–did anyone else think it was too big?

      Also, how cute was Ginsberg in his Zachary Quinto man-cardigan? I’m glad he seems to be slowly collecting more than one outfit, but–does that shirt have little roses on it? I can’t tell what those are. And I think Stan’s clothes are actually getting tighter with every episode. By the end of the season, they’ll just have to carry him in and prop him up against a wall, because he won’t be able to move without ripping something.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1129137319 Paula Pertile

      Ginsburg is wearing that dark sweater (instead of his usual plaid jacket) which kind of ties him to Peggy as well – yes? no?

      Peggy’s mother frightens me on so many levels – guess she’s just ‘spot on’ with all the Catholic stuff I grew up with. { shudder }

      Great summing up, as always – thanks.

    • Susan Crawford

      As always, an insightful and satisfying overview! (How do I love thee, T and Lo? Can’t begin to count the ways!)

      I loved the clothing Sally wore this episode. The phone-chat skirt and sweater with opaque tights and flats was spot on for the era. I had a closet full of shetland and “poor-boy” sweaters to be paired with above-the-knee straight skirts – usually plaid – and so did all my girlfriends. Simple, easy, and just sophisticated enough to make the wearer feel more confident and grown-up than we actually were!

      Her shopping outfit walked a line between “little girl on her first grown-up shopping expedition” and sporty teen (love the duffle coat). And her dinner dress was a masterpiece. With the go-go boots, it was over the top for her age, but scrubbed of makeup and with little flat shoes, she regained her innocence (which was startlingly highlighted under the too-sophisticated, hair-sprayed  updo.)

      Peggy’s first dress in the Chinese food scene was one of her better styles this season. I loved the inverted side pleating – under all that blandness is a little spark after all! Later, her plaid jumper and plue camp shirt were so bland and dowdy that Joan’s suggestion that she go shopping was one of the episodes best lines!

      The pink, bow-trimmed tent dress was a really popular style. I wore something very similar to my college graduation eve party. This style could look babyish or maternity-dressish unless you were careful, and Peggy didn’t escape either impression. But the color was wonderful on her – warm and glowing. (BTW, her frozen smile as the reality of Abe’s “proposal” dawns on her was Miss Elizabeth’s finest moment this season. Emmy, anyone?)

      Could there have been a more uncomfortable dinner scene at Peggy’s apartment? Mom in her hat, Peggy swaddled in a wrap-top dress, Abe looking uncomfortable. And the last doorway confrontation? Brrrr. A cold front just swept New York, all right. And so spot on in terms of the cultural norms of the time. “GOOD girls do NOT.” Period. And yet we did – all the time, in increasing numbers, despite the family conflicts.

      I really loved Peggy’s plaid menswear coat and her hat the next day. Yes, it was a near-match for the cool office-grey-blue scheme, but the hat looked SO Marlo Thomas, Barbra Streisand in “On a Clear Day” that I was grinning ear to ear.

      Personally, I am really hoping for a major style evolution for Joan. She will never NOT wear more body-conscious clothing, but I would like to see her break from the sheath-of-iron look just a little bit as she moves into her new reality of working mother. Probably won’t happen except in very small, symbolic ways, though, like the exaggerated Peter Pan style “collar”. (I note that Joan’s magic pencil pendant still shall swing! Love it!)

      Megan in the episode was fabulous. Loved the tight sweater and striped vaguely folkloric skirt – super outfit! Kind of a grown-up version of Sally’s phone chat look, I thought. Her Heinz dinner date dress was marvelous: metallic, a-line, embellished – exactly what a young well-to-do woman in NYC would have run to Saks or Bergdorf’s for such an event.

      But the coup de theatre for her was the award dinner pink Regency gown and coat. Truly magnificent. She looked like a million bucks. And Maman in her black sheath with crystals and glitter above an illusion bodice: va-va-voom. Sex on a stick, as Roger saw at first glance.

      Loved the final shot – everyone deflated, let down, disappointed and feeling . . . kind of dirty. What a tableau.

      Time is definitely speeding up this season, and we’d better buckle up because it’s gonna be a bumpy (if stylish) ride, kittens!

      • baxterbaby

        I too have been wondering about Joan.  She seems too aware not to realize her style looks dated.  She’s most likely financially strapped at the moment; she’s not getting alimony from a Park Avenue surgeon after all, but an Army doc.

        But having come from a family of hour-glass shaped women (and at the age of 14 having had one myself) who were also fashion conscious,  I know it wasn’t easy to find something current and flattering.  Shift styled dresses, if they were tailored closer to the body or had a narrow self belt, shorter skirts, patterned or pale hose and lower heels were some ways of coping.  Some of my older aunts just gave up and went the Chanel route (like Marie) of cardigan style jacket, straight skirt and shell.  A woman like Joan is just going to look pregnant in the baby doll or Regency look, unless the bottom of the dress is more restrained (even though Megan is curvy, she does not begin to approach Joan’s opulence!)  I also think that Joan would find some of those styles too childish.

        Megan’s Regency dress was gorgeous; I was reminded of an AT&T(?) ad from those years with three models, all dressed in Bill Blass Regency couture gowns, with elaborate updo’s and falls.   I think the 3 were of different ethincities, which made it more striking.  It was the kind of stuff I swooned over.

        Her shopping outfit was almost too magazine perfect.  Bringing out the big guns for Mama?

      • formerlyAnon

         “And so spot on in terms of the cultural norms of the time. “GOOD girls
        do NOT.” Period. And yet we did – all the time, in increasing numbers,
        despite the family conflicts.”

        True, so very true!

        • sweetlilvoice

          Sadly, some families are still against couples living together before marriage. I’ve had 2 friends who were in that situation within the last 5 years. 

      • formerlyAnon

        “sheath-of-iron look”

        Perfect!

    • amy_raks

      Another Christian/Catholic element at the dinner table at Peggy’s – the dishes. The pattern is “Dixie Dogwood” with this inscription on the back, “The legend of Dogwood dates back to the crucifixion. Early lore likens
      the dogwood petals, shaped like a cross and stained with red, to the
      Christ of Calvary.”

    • judybrowni

      One of Janie Bryant’s rare anachronistic mistakes: having Katherine wear the two necklaces at once, the cross on a chain and the circlet of costume jewelry.

      I understand that she was making a plot point — Katherine’s religion and ethnicity — and the outfit needed more than just a cross on a chain.

      But wearing more than one necklace at a time is a more recent thing.

      On another note: I owned a hat very similar — if downmarket — to Megan’s black shopping hat.

      • judybrowni

        Also an anachronism: if Sally is wearing a grey sweatshirt with that red plaid skirt.

        Sweatshirts were confined to athletic wear — or paired with jeans for casual wear.

        If that’s a grey sweater, in the matchy-matchy ’60s, it wouldn’t be paired with a red plaid skirt, only a skirt with grey in it.

        White or black might be paired with any other colored separates, but colors in separates were matched up.

        • Maggie_Mae

          Our high school colors were red & gray.  Every Game Day (this was Texas), we were encouraged to dress accordingly.  Even the intellectual kids played along–then skipped the pep rally to discuss higher matters in a classroom set aside for us pariahs.

          Sally’s skirt might have a bit of gray in it; my monitor is rather ill right now & the exact plaid is all fuzzy…

          • judybrowni

            Our school colors were dark blue and a horrid too-bright shade of yellow: but other than our school sweaters and coats, we would never have paired anything else with those colors together.

            • judybrowni

              But if there is a touch of grey in the skirt, yeah, that would be considered matching.

        • http://twitter.com/Selkiechick Selkiechick

           I don’t know how anachronistic the sweatshirt is- she is at home, in her bedroom, and her mother (who I am sure enforces fashion) is away. It could be a little rebellion, and a little comfort. (for all we know it could be Glen’s…)

          • 3hares

            It looks like a grey sweater to me, not a sweatshirt.

          • sweetlilvoice

            Or maybe her dad’s? I went through a period where I borrowed most of my dad’s clothes and we weren’t even close. Poor man….he usually commented on how he had a shirt like that….
            I’m betting on it’s Glen’s though.

      • evie karaoke

         i disagree. katharine wasn’t trying to make a style statement by wearing 2 necklaces; rather, many catholics never remove their crosses, no matter what other jewelry they might wear “on top”. i thought that keeping katharine’s cross on was a genius move by janie. it’s very authentic to older catholic women.

        • PaulaBerman

           This is true. My mother, who would have been 32 in 1967, never removed her gold chain with the cross and the little gold hand making the sign of the horns. She always wore it regardless of what other jewelry she was wearing. However, it was a longer chain and was usually tucked inside her top, but I guess it showed when she had a larger neckline.

          • judybrowni

            Mine wasn’t a religious family. The cross necklace was more decorative than religious, and I wore one at a time, but I’m happy to be corrected.

            • PaulaBerman

              My family was ethnic religious, and all the Italian ladies wore the cross along with other things.

            • PaulaBerman

              My family was ethnic religious, and all the Italian ladies wore the cross along with other things.

            • formerlyAnon

              My Irish Catholic relatives, the ones of Mama Olson’s generation & a little younger, didn’t wear religious jewelry – it was something Italian Catholics (& Protestants with their plain little crosses) did. (I remember this because when my generation got cross necklaces for gifts, it was commented upon.)

            • formerlyAnon

              My Irish Catholic relatives, the ones of Mama Olson’s generation & a little younger, didn’t wear religious jewelry – it was something Italian Catholics (& Protestants with their plain little crosses) did. (I remember this because when my generation got cross necklaces for gifts, it was commented upon.)

        • Jessica Goldstein

          Not just Catholics, either. My Jewish relatives wore stars of David that never came off. Sometimes the star was tucked inside clothes while a showier necklace was worn out, but with an open neckline both would appear.

        • http://twitter.com/TMamBo Therese Bohn

           That’s true.  My Mom rarely removes her cross and miraculous medal (she’s 92) and will still wear a decorative necklace with it or over a mockneck.

    • http://twitter.com/#!/Space_Kitty Space Kitty

      I want to steal Marie’s look from head to toe in that black number.  White gloves and all. What a great recap!

    • KaileeM

      Anyone see remember that Sex and the City episode where Carrie flips her shit because she gets inside the Vogue accessories closet? That would be me if allowed to get inside Mad Men’s wardrobe department. Megan’s gold dress (love the matching nails too!) and her pink evening gown are simply divine.

      And can Julia Ormond please be in more things? She played Megan’s mother perfectly. And she’s ridiculously gorgeous. Her black evening gown is stunning. I’d love to have that in my closet!

      Great style recap, as always! I’m always impressed with the story Janie Bryant tells with clothes. She’s a genius.

      • charlotte

         I want to go to there!

      • Frank_821

        What really is wild for me is last year I saw Ormond in a little indie movie with Cheyenne Jackson called the Green. She plays a lesbian lawyer and she could not have looked and acted any more opposite. Plain, hair down and simple, blue-jeans yet full of good spirits

        • JeanProuvaire

          Oh my god, THAT’S why she was so familiar! I didn’t realize that was her at all! Mind = blown. She was great in The Green.

    • janiemary

      The costumes for this episode were awesome!  I loved the neckline and sleeves on Megan’s gown and Marie’s gown was breathtaking!  I want a gown like that and somewhere really special to wear it!!

      I also want the mirror in the ladies’ lounge!!  The set decoration is as spot-on as the costumes!

    • Heidi/FranticButFab

      Marie’s dress instantly reminded me of “Portrait of Madame X” by Whistler: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portrait_of_Madame_X

    • chatelaine1

      I believe this is the first time we’ve seen Joan with a Peter Pan collar (on the purple dress).  I was immediately struck with how wrong a decorative element that is for her and wondered if you two would comment on it.

      And to reinforce your comments that Megan’s blue turtleneck and red and blue tapestry skirt in the office indicate she is definitely not American, note that the colors are very French, red and blue, almost like a French flag.  I thought immediately of France when I saw the outfit. 

      • juliamargaret

        Doesn’t Peggy wear a lot of Peter Pan collars for the office ? Maybe it’s there as a subtle way to emphasize the connection between them in this context. 

        • chatelaine1

          I agree, juliamargaret.   A sutble connection!

      • Sweetbetty

         That large PP collar on a scooped neckline was very stylish at that time.  It’s a step Joan could take to be in fashion without wearing a shift or mini-skirt.  I thought it looked very appropriate on her.

        • chatelaine1

          I agree those collars were very stylish and I like them in general.  It’s just a strangely demure touch for Joan–not a typical look for a woman with an incredible bust–but I think you’re exactly right:  it’s a small way for her to stay in fashion.   

    • http://twitter.com/TMamBo Therese Bohn

      Thank You for including a picture of Peggy’s Wall Art!!  We’ve seen bits of these in a few scenes since “Close the Door, Sit Down” and I’d love to have copies of these great African pieces.  I think they’re needlepoint. Has anyone else ever seen these before?

      And God, I LOVED Megan’s regency dress! The cape was a little bathrobe-y, but how gorgeous is that? I can totally see Audrey H or Babs in it!

      • baxterbaby

        Peggy’s wall art was all over the place in the early to mid-sixties.  I remember them as being fabric, but not needlepoint.  I’m blanking on the actual materials used.  I remember a lot of “caribbean” themes (Calypso was huge; think Harry Belafonte!) and other vaguely Latin and African motifs.

      • Jessi03

        I just noticed them in the screencaps today!  I wonder what inspired Peggy to get them.  They don’t seem to really “go” with her apartment.  Maybe a gift from Abe?

        • formerlyAnon

           I don’t think a gift from Abe, I think they predate him – but I’d have to go back and re-watch earlier scenes of her apartment to be sure.

        • http://twitter.com/TMamBo Therese Bohn

          Hi Jessi03, baxterbaby and all – Thanks for your responses — I do remember seeing the ethnic prints behind Peggy in the S3 Finale when Don asked her to join him with the new firm.  But until now we haven’t seen only parts of these in the background.  Somehow these prints struck a chord with me, I think someone I knew had them when I was a kid in the ’6o’s,  Yes, I think they’re either African or Carribean — Oh Kathryn, if you held on to yours, I would have happily bought them from you!  I’ll have to check eBay!

        • kitchin

           Someone amazingly found the same wall picture in screencap from Sanford and Son! Talking about the picture of two men, rightward of the JFK photo.

      • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_WKSM57KFWUGRMKPDUW4SPL3GDM Kathryn

        I think I had those exact prints.  Probably donated them to goodwill.

      • charlotte

         I noticed that both Peggy and Sally have ballet pictures on their walls (Peggy’s are not in these screencaps, but I’m pretty sure I saw them on the show) and I found them to be an interesting link between those two. Sally is a child who’s been into ballet for quite a while, but how does this relate to Peggy? Maybe as a “hommage” to her girly side?
        What undoubtedly links them is that they are both trying to decode the mannerisms of other people in order to find their roles in society. Well that… and of course a complicated mother-daughter relationship.

        • http://profile.yahoo.com/EICGS3ZJZ2P5NYMR5ND55IACUQ Tara

           I am fairly positive Elizabeth Moss was an aspiring ballerina for awhile.

          • charlotte

             You’re right, I think I read that somewhere.

      • Lisa_Cop

        You all know Glen is played by Matt Weiner’s son, right?

    • annieanne

      even someone as relatively forward-thinking as Don wouldn’t allow his pre-teen daughter to go out in knee-high go-go boots,

      Nonsense. My very strict catholic parents let me go to catholic school wearing boots back then. And I was Sally’s age. 

      • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1241487378 Lauren Lynch Fox

        I had a pair of go-go boots too. A gift from my Aunt and I was aloud to wear them.

      • Spicytomato1

        I had a pair just like she had on and I was allowed to wear them…under floor length dresses. Sigh.

      • makeityourself

        In second grade I wore white Nancy Sinatra-type gogo boots with dark green knee socks and my Catholic school green houndstooth jumper uniform to school. We all did. That was 1968. By 1971 I was wearing knee- high white patent boots with the same getup.

        Those boots were the Uggs of their time for Tweens.

        • ybbed

          I had those boots too, in seventh grade, Sallys age. I wore them to school, everybody did.

      • Sweetbetty

         I think it was the sum of the look rather than just the boots that bothered Don.  Worn with demure school clothes they would look just fine to him but with her metallic, sleeveless dress, up-done hair, and make-up he just couldn’t handle his little girl looking so adult.

        • Lisa_Cop

          Emile’s comment certainly didn’t help matters.

    • Dejah_Thoris

      I have been waiting TWO WHOLE DAYS FOR THIS POST…. (weep). 

      It was worth every moment of suffering.

    • http://julia-here.livejournal.com/ Julia

      Small things things: Peggy’s dress for dinner with her mother has the same neckline as her mother’s Sunday Best in season two or three (the arc with Colin Hanks) although her mother’s dress was brown and purple. Y’all wrote about it in a post discussing the use of prints and florals.

      Those white boots of Sally’s are Czarina boots (patent or fake patent, knee high with zippers) and not Go-Go boots (white kid, mid-calf, no zippers). The former were actually easier to find and usually cheaper than the latter, which were strongly associated with Modrian dresses and Sassoon hair and makeup.

      Oh: the JFK picture on Peggy’s wall ties her to her Catholic heritage as strongly as her mother’s cross.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1241487378 Lauren Lynch Fox

      Meghan dresses so much like my mother (who was probably around that age at the time). That one wrap skirt gave me chills it looked so familiar.

    • Glammie

      Looking at these clothes all together makes me realize how dead on they are for the period.  I have one of my mother’s suits from the time–it’s a blue-green plaid.  Peggy should borrow it.

      Has Megan become more buttoned-up since the last episode?  It seems to me that there’s been an in-office switch to a more covered look–what we saw in her big Don fight scene.  All those turtlenecks at the office read as protective to me–Don can’t unbutton them for a quickie fondle.

      Megan dresses so much like my mother did (minus her one schoolgirl outfit) that it’s really weirdly jarring for me–this time it’s the turtleneck/ethnic skirt outfit.  Those were all over for professional women.

      • Maggie_Mae

        Re: the “more covered” look.  Time marches on.  This season started in the summer.  Now it’s early or mid-autumn.  And in New York–not here in Texas.  

        Of course, the realistic basis of the looks is secondary to their dramatic purpose.  

    • Aurumgirl

      I think there is a visual similarity between the pink dress Peggy wears to her dinner with Abe and the pink regency gown Megan wears to the awards dinner.  Maybe I’m off on this, but the colour, cut,  and shape of the dresses are just too similar to ignore (with the details on the dresses further illustrating the differences between the two women)–and it makes another connection between the two women, who are similarly named/employed/connected to Don and both attending  disappointing dinner events. 

      I’m also having some flashbacks in these episodes–this season especially I’m seeing quite a lot of my childhood outfits on the show.  My mom was a fashion designer back then and whipped up all kinds of dresses for me which often matched her own.  I used to hate being fitted and measured for these outfits, but I have photos of me in a black and white Chanel-like suit, black watch plaid trousers, chartreuse satin princess line dress (with white gloves, a hat, and a purse very much like Sally’s dinner ensemble) and white go go boots my teachers would fawn over at school.  I wore those boots everywhere! I was never so well dressed as I was during the 60′s.  

      • Glammie

        You may have hated it, but how massively cool.

        • Aurumgirl

          I did hate it!  I remember feeling like I was never allowed to just play with my friends, I always had to run in and stand still while I was measured and pinned.  But you’re right, my mom’s efforts and her work were very cool.  I was definitely spoiled–just wish I’d realilzed it then!

      • formerlyAnon

         Oh, so familiar! My mom was NOT a designer & her time at the sewing machine was one of the few occasions I’d catch her swearing – but she made me so many clothes in the late 60s and early 70s which I didn’t fully appreciate because they were not “just like the other girls” – they were, in fact, SO much more stylish, and pretty awesome.

        • Aurumgirl

          You said it.  There was a time I was crazy about other kids’ clothes–jeans (which my mother hated), bell bottoms!  I had such a mania for those.  She’d give in and make her own versions of those clothes which were kind of insane, when I look at those old photos.  Wild colours and prints were always used.  Our moms were indeed so much more stylish and pretty awesome.

        • roadtrip1000

           Ha! Brings back memories. I think the reason I never learned to sew was because my mother and older sisters used to swear so much at the machine. Sewing just didn’t seem like much fun to me. But what a great skill to have.

      • sweetlilvoice

        When I was a kid in the 80s, some of my worst memories were of my mother trying to sew anything. Poor thing, her mother made everything for her, even doll clothes! She just didn’t have the patience. I always shudder when I sew a big old sewing machine for sale…the ones that you can fold up under a table.

    • Judy_J

      I loved that Peggy had a photo of JFK in her living room.  In 1966 I was the same age as Sally Draper is supposed to be, so I’m very interested in her clothing.  For “dress-up” occasions, my mom would give me the same up-do as Sally has.  My only critique is that I think in 1966, Megan would have bought Sally Courrèges boots as opposed to the knee-high boots she’s wearing.  But her dress was perfectly age appropriate for 1966.

    • choco

      I think its interesting that both Megan and Peggy wear the same shade of fuschia in this episode–Peggy when Abe “proposes” to live together and Megan in the final ballroom scene. Pink is generally thought to be a feminine color, and fuschia is it’s saturated, extreme counterpart. In both these scenes, Megan and Peggy are playing their feminine roles to the extreme–Peggy shows simpering desire to be married, and Megan acts as the buttress and support to Don’s moment of glory(when she in fact deserves a glorified moment of her own). Each woman is being dishonest in their roles, and both scenes breaks their extremely girly/fuschia colored expectations. Peggy does not get her expected marriage proposal, and Megan’s father tells her that she is selling herself short.

    • EEKstl

      ENFIN! I’ve been waiting for this post since the episode aired! Thank you, TLo for your brilliant observations. While Megan’s Regency dress is a knockout, Marie’s gown is one I’d like a version of in my own closet.  Stunning. I love how Marie’s nail color ties her to Megan in this scene, as if that bit of youthful color and exuberance is all that’s left after years in a disappointing marriage.

      The casting, always brilliant on MM, is uncanny for the roles of Megan’s parents. She truly looks like a perfect hybrid of both.

    • girliecue

      Call me crazy (everyone does) but I like Peggy and Stan together. The entire time Abe was visiting the office I kept thinking Peggy and Stan seemed more on the same wavelength that Peggy and Abe. There’s an ease to the way they relate to each other that is pointedly lacking between Peggy and Abe. Thanks T Lo for pointing out the red tie-in to both Stan and Ginsberg. I can even see Ginsberg with Peggy more easily than Abe. And didn’t she look very Hello Kitty All Grown Up in that date dress?

      I am not convinced Julia Ormond is a mere mortal. It literally shocked me to see Katherine after seeing Marie’s elegance. And I had no idea illusion netting was around in the 60s.

      • Glammie

        Hmmm, but remember just how much of an ass Stan was to Peggy–all the undermining he did of her with the sexually explicit remarks?  Peggy brought him in line with the unclad brainstorming session and Stan couldn’t, er, measure up.

        • http://twitter.com/madgeylou Megan Dietz

          that’s why i think he kind of loves her! cause she’s proven to him, starting that day and time and time again thereafter, that she’s a badass and hilarious and the cutest thing on pins.

          • Glammie

            Maybe, but why bother with a guy like that?  

            It’s interesting to me that Peggy has a pact with Ken.  He’s never been as much an asshole as some of the others.  Ah well, he’s married and keeping his real self out of the office from what I can see.

            • Frank_821

              I noticed the easy chemistry she has with Stan this season. I too can see them as a couple or even having a very sophisticated short term-fling and remaining friends. After the “dressing down” incident, he seems to genuinely respect Peggy even though he’s still very much Stan. He’s not a pig around her anymore but he makes no pretense about who or what he is. At the same time though he gets her professionally and certainly values her abilities and they work well together. Note there is no attempt to degrade or undermine her and he even suggested she hire someone mediocre to protect her own position.

            • girliecue

              It struck me that neither Peggy nor Stan are at ease with the opposite sex, but they seem extremely comfortable around each other. Stan’s very Stan-like crack about Peggy going up a bra size got a grin out of her. If anyone else said that, I don’t think Peggy would have been amused, and apart from maybe Joan Stan doesn’t treat any other female with the equanimity he shows Peggy. Stan gets Peggy to relax and Peggy gets Stan to be more more mature. They’re good for each other that way, at least. 

            • Glammie

              Yeah, but that may be in part because they’re *not* having sex so he’s not objectifying Peggy as a sex object.  Just a little real-life skepticism here.  Hell, Don’s great until you sleep with him.

            • Vlasta Bubinka

              I’ve often thought Ken was kind of a letch. He chased Alison, tackled her, and showed he panties. He made fun of Peggy during her “weight gain,” commenting “all the meat is in the tail.” Cosgrove made a play for Jane while she was Don’s secretary. He shushed his wife during the dinner  with Heinz. Is he as big a jerk as some of the guys? I guess not, but I still think he’s an ass.

            • Glammie

              That’s true–though, unlike some of the others, he seems to have settled down–maybe even matured?  Meanwhile Harry, who seemed to be one of the nicer guys in the early seasons (one office hook-up and he felt *bad* afterwards) has turned into a real asshole.  

            • roadtrip1000

               True, but it seemed like all the guys in the office were expected to be letches around women – even Sal. (Who I still miss dearly.)

          • girliecue

            “…cutest thing on pins” – that’s exactly how I’d imagine Stan describing Peggy. And she is!

        • sweetlilvoice

          He….ur….was unable to concentrate in her nude presence. I loved that the ad campaign Peggy came up with during that scene was about someone coughing in church.

      • choco

        hahah “Hello Kitty All Grown Up” so true. 

      • Jessi03

        Hello Kitty All Grown Up is making me so happy.

    • formerlyAnon

      Psssht to the gowns. I want the shopping outfits Megan & her mom had.  Peggy’s plaid office coat was pretty slammin’ as well.

       

      • cleep1000

        I want that plaid coat.

    • AliciaChamisa

      I thought of Nancy Sinatra’s, “These Boots Are Made for Walkin’”, 1966-anyone else?

    • Pants_are_a_must

      Despite the Regency style of Megan’s dress, there’s enough exotic elements in it to tie her back to previous episodes, not to mention Roger’s now-ex wife. She’s all pearls and big hair and flouncy period elements.

      Marie’s dress wouldn’t be out of place even in today’s red carpets. Helen Mirren could definitely do it justice, if not even younger actresses.

      Finally, Megan’s purple dress, which you contrasted with Peggy’s plaid coat, is not just feminine: it’s almost motherly. It evokes house robes tied in the middle in calming tones. This is not the dress of a successful copywriter; this is the dress of a woman who knows she’s out of place and wants out too.

    • CassandraMortmain

      Disqus kept eating my posts on the MM recap so let me take this moment to say that “Grandmothers Go Down” had me howling and is the perfect illustration of why I love this site so much.

      In the scene where Marie is in the Chanel-style suit and Megan is in the green/blue shift dress, it seemed like they were driving home the point that Megan is a beautiful, up-to-the-moment child while Marie is the very embodiment of a sexy, timeless and slightly dangerous adult woman.  A point that was reinforced by Marie’s stunning black gown.  I spent half the episode wondering if that was Juliette Binoche and then realized at the end that of course it was Julia Ormond.  Juliette would have been more age-appropriate since there is only a 17-year age difference between Jessica Pare and Julia Ormond but the casting did work.  Ormond was never less than absolutely stunning.

      Megan’s silver dress for the Heinz dinner, the patterned skirt, her shopping ensemble with the hip little hat, and her Regency gown were to die for.  I’d wear any of those things today.  The gown did have an Indian feel to it and reminded me of one of Marchesa’s early collections which was based on the British Raj.

      I squealed when I saw that dark green pitcher Abe put on the table.  We had one exactly like that when I was a kid.  I think it was some promotion from a gas station.  My husband commented that his parents had the same, or very similar, ethnic prints, probably brought back from a cruise to the Caribbean.  And of course the Kennedy picture was a classic.  In an older generation it would have been part of a triptych with the Pope and Jesus, while Peggy and Abe have jettisoned the two religious figures.  The set designers get just as much right as the costume designers do. 

    • Vlasta Bubinka

      I also thought it notable in the Heinz restaurant scene, that Heinz man and Don wear nearly the same suit, and Cosgrove stands out, and he is on the periphery of the conversation. And while the metallics and swirl pattern of Alice and Megan’s dresses reference each other, both Alice and Cynthia have shades of blue in their dresses, and they are the women who get sushed by the men.

    • EAV

      When I first saw that hallway in the boys’ school, I immediately thought about how bad that hallway must SMELL.  

      • Vlasta Bubinka

        Frito’s.

    • erinbinek

      I don’t even watch this show but I love these recaps. :)

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001998855370 Fatima Siddique

      Aside from the bright pink gown, we didn’t once see Megan in her trademark sunny, bright colors. Everything she wore in this episode was darker and/or more muted. It made me sad. 

      • Cabernet7

        Don’t be sad!  Her pajamas were bright, sunny yellow.

    • Chaiaiai

      As always, this was terrific.  The thing that makes me think of Joan/Peggy having a connection through that pink dress is….they are both women you sleep with but don’t marry.  (yes, I know Greg came along but much later and also with a whiff of desperation from Joan). I am wondering if Joan once found herself in a similar situation, 8-10 years back, when she dolled herself up in a dress with a bow on it and didn’t receive a proposal either.  Maybe that’s where her compassion comes in.

      • formerlyAnon

         Brilliant comment about Joan’s possible “not-a-proposal” dress. Once you say it, I’m totally convinced it happened.

        • sarahjane1912

          Perhaps. 

          I’m equally convinced that the ‘not-a-proposal’ dress refers to a situation when Joan was asked, but refused, [possibly holding out for something better, like a doctor?!?!] so she dressed herself in accordance with knowing she was going to say No. Joan makes a statement whatever she wears but I think if she had been invited out on a Big Date and she suspected she was going to receive a marriage proposal [that she did not want] that she would have dressed accordingly.

    • Laylalola

      Going along with the analysis, Sally’s silver pairs her with her own date with Roger. 

    • CassandraMortmain

      Loved Peggy’s gray work dress with the red insert pleats. I also really liked her blue/green dinner-with-Mom dress even though it was clearly not in style. The rest of her wardrobe this week was a disaster. I’m starting to worry about Peggy. She’s in serious danger of being permanently overshadowed by Megan at work and that is emphasized by their clothes. Megan always looks appropriate but very stylish and modern while Peggy usually looks a bit frumpy. And in an image-conscious business, that’s important. When Peggy first started having success as a copywriter there was some speculation that her character was based on Mary Wells, a pioneering ad woman. But I think Megan is more like Wells – they’re both glamorous and chic and both have professional relationships with their husbands (Mary Wells married her biggest client, the president of Braniff Airlines and had a career-long partnership with him).Peggy’s personal life seems a bit of a mess, too. I agree with Katharine that this cohabitation with Abe will not work. I confess that I’ve always found Peggy’s sexuality a bit off-putting. I don’t know if she was a virgin when she first came to SC, but she ran off to get birth control pills her first day on the job, made a play for Don (which he of course gently rebuffed) and ended the day by having sex with Pete. And a couple of weeks before moving in with Abe she feels the need to give a stranger a handjob in a movie theater. Girlfriend is seriously confused. I want good things for Peggy but I’m starting to think that they may not happen. She has an outsize talent but she doesn’t have the personal charm or looks that quite frankly would have been very important. Unless Megan decides that advewrtising is not for her, I can see Peggy start to lose out to her in the workplace.

      • formerlyAnon

        Maybe it’s just because I’m fond of Peggy, but I think we ARE embarking on a story arc in which Megan seemingly effortlessly outdoes Peggy – but I see Peggy coming out on top in the end (either at the firm or at another) because she has a relentless work ethic and because she cares about advertising and loves the job in a way I think they have telegraphed that Megan does not.

      • roadtrip1000

        I’m not feeling very optimistic about Peggy and Abe’s relationship either. She was ready to impulsively end their relationship in the previous episode. Plus Abe’s idea that they should move in together also seemed impulsive, and rushed. And they actually don’t seem to have much in common. The contrast in how they each dressed so differently for that dinner in the restaurant is a case in point. I’m also glad you mentioned the issue of Peggy’s sexuality. She does seems to act out the sexual confusion that many young women must have felt back then about society’s mixed messages, double standards, and changing values. But she doesn’t seem to have the ability to add some finesse to her acting-out behaviors. She’s like a bull in a china shop in that regard. That said, I still don’t get why she hooked up with Pete Campbell – especially since he was so slimy to her when they first met. And why did she come on to Don? So far her sexual relationships with men seem pretty random – even with Abe. IMHO as far as Peggy’s sexuality is concerned, she’s still trying to run (as far away as she can get) from her religious upbringing, but she’s still not very clear about where she’s headed.

        • Sweetbetty

           “That said, I still don’t get why she hooked up with Pete Campbell – especially since he was so slimy to her when they first met. And why did she come on to Don?”             My guess is that she took Joan’s advice too literally.  Listening to, and watching, Joan, she felt she was being told to use her sexuality as a way to manage in a world dominated by men.  But rather than using Joan’s sly subtleness she was awkward and didn’t know where the boundaries were.  Like you said, she was like a bull in a china shop.    

          • roadtrip1000

            That makes sense. Peggy wanted to shed the rules she grew up and was in search of a different way of life. It does make sense that she would be so willing to take Joan’s advice so literally. Thanks for your insight! (I wonder if Tom and Lorenzo could arrange for all the bitter kittens to get college credits in psychology. On the assumption that we watch MM at least 2x a week, read the recaps and all the comments, and then write our own essays; I would say that 3 credits a semester/season would be fair.)

            • Sweetbetty

               LOL.  I have no desire for any college credits but I’d sure like to attend the graduation party and meet TLo and all the Bitter Kittens in person.

    • formerlyAnon

      I am going to obsess here, because I can’t decide which of my three Irish Catholic aunts Mama Olson resembles most: Margaret, Eileen or Pat.  I’m pretty sure you could have costumed Mama Olson for this dinner entirely out of my Aunt Eileen’s wardrobe, except for the Celtic cross. That generation, in my family, did not wear religious jewelry.

      It’s been said before, here, but I have to repeat it because I think it says so much about Peggy: That photo of JFK that’s so prominent as Mama Olson is welcomed into the apartment just screams at how much of Peggy’s upbringing is still with her. It’s not there because she was a rabid Young Democrat during Kennedy’s campaign. It’s there because an Irish Catholic ran for President and won. I would bet my house that Mama Olson has the same photo. (What Peggy doesn’t have is the picture of the Pope, or the religious print, or the framed souvenir of a friend or relative’s visit to Rome & the Vatican – at least one of which is in Mama’s house.) Neither Peggy nor Abe seem religious, but I think they may be more culturally Catholic & Jewish, respectively, than they think they are.

      What struck me most about this scene (and it’s in contrast to the Draper dinner scene) is How Hard Everyone’s Trying, even though everyone involved is anticipating a disaster.

      Abe is dressed properly and exerting himself to be agreeable. Peggy is in the clothing her mom would like to see her wear as a Proper Young Matron. Mama arrives with a bakery box, wearing a good dress, jewelry (and I bet those are clip on earrings & those suckers pinch!), with full makeup and a manicure (which I’m sure she did herself). Peggy’s brought out the best dishes and glassware she has. There are flowers.

      Probably because it’s so reminiscent of MY roots, this is a picture to me of a more stable family than the Drapers will ever be – even though Peggy’s table is just as full of people making each other unhappy as is the Drapers’ (and I doubt that Abe is really going to be around for the long haul).  They all came to dinner knowing they were going to be miserable, they gave it their best shot, they were surprisingly honest with each other, and everyone is left to some degree unhappy but definitely just as connected, if not more so, than they started out. Or that’s how I see it.

      The Drapers (& friends & relatives) seem so much more smooth, on the surface, and embark on their interlocking train wrecks under a heavy gloss of manners, yet wind up so much more alone and disconnected than the Olsons do.

      And lord, it’s been said before – but poor Sally can’t catch a break. It seems as if no happy memory will be left unmarred for that girl.

      • girliecue

        I vote for Aunt Margaret. Never mind that I have absolutely no idea what your aunts are like. This is a blog for the fabulous and opinionated, so I thought I’d voice my (completely baseless) opinion. ;)

        • formerlyAnon

          Haha! Good call, Aunt Margaret was physically most like Mama Olson – but in personality I waver between the other two.  Margaret was her generation’s Peggy – first to be college educated – because of age difference & the wars (WWII & Korea) even got her degree before her brother got his! – married a Jew! – admitted to alcoholism (and conquered it) – and was the only one in her generation to be divorced, at least as far as I know – there may be a cousin or two I’ve lost track of.

          • girliecue

            Hey – they share the same name! Maybe unbeknownst to all of us your Aunt Margaret is the inspiration for Peggy Olson’s character…

      • sarahjane1912

        “The Drapers (& friends & relatives) seem so much more smooth, on the surface, and embark on their interlocking train wrecks under a heavy gloss of manners, yet wind up so much more alone and disconnected than the Olsons do.”
        Ah but that’s the warm friendly upper middle class for you.

        I was told, many moons ago, that the upper class exchange words [barbs?] to express their anger, the middle class throw things, and the working class hit each other. Facile perhaps, but it goes some way towards my understanding how the Drapers ‘deal with’ their issues, particularly Don and his barely-restrained aggression [can't keep the working class man down from chasing his wife with a view to violence], the Calverts and their bitter exchanges, and in fact the way everyone from the Sterlings to the Campbells on this show deals with their own individual hurt. For the upper-class types, words are their weapons, but maintaining a ‘perfect shop front’ was even more important which is why they seem ‘more alone and disconnected than the Olsens do’.

    • TxMom2011

      OMG!  It didnt occur to me when I watched the episode, but I have a picture of me in Peggy’s pink dress!  It was in like 69-70 and I was doing some modeling (as a mere babe) and had that dress in a softer pink.  I’m gonna tear my house apart tonite looking for that picture.

    • cherrynyc

      “…And here she is, after taking Joan’s pointed advice to go shopping, wearing something that looks like it came out of Joan’s reject pile. Not that Joan would ever wear a baby doll dress, but the bright pink color, squared neckline, and bow to top it all off is right out of the Holloway playbook. When Peggy wants to be pretty and girly and flirtatious (a role that doesn’t come naturally to her) she looks to Joan for guidance.”
      I HAVE BEEN VALIDATED!!!!!! Merci beaucoup TLo! xx

      Also, I am LIVING for Marie’s gown. That is all.

    • Trang Nguyen

      What, no mention of Mona and her fabulous 60s eye makeup?

    • http://twitter.com/gabyripples Gabriella

      I’m surprised there was no comment on how much Peggy’s (and now Abe’s) place looked like the Campbell’s NY residence, and Peggy’s dress was reminiscent of Trudy’s old dresses. It was very surreal to me, and I didn’t know what to make of it. I guess maybe it’s as simple as most NYC apartments in that income level look alike (though I thought Pete had substantially more money than Pegs, but I guess her living alone would probably allow her more than Pete supporting his wife). I actually loved Peggy’s “housewife dress” and I’d DIE to have that grey dress with the red kickpleat – it’d be perfect for a day in a law office without going to court or seeing clients. 
      Also loved pretty much everything Megan wore this episode (bien sûr) and I want all of it. Note – the tapestry skirt – it looked a little slavic, no? Wasn’t there a 60s trend of eastern european flare? I can’t recall if it’s been discussed already. I definitely inherited a big wool peasant skirt from my mom that totally says eastern europe to me. In other news, I desperately covet that regency style dress – I definitely immediately thought of Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady (though I’d point out it came out in 1964, but that was probably just long enough for the style to reach the wealthy, and then trickle down to the mainstream in the late 1960s).
      Also: HATS GIMME PLEASE. 

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1303837450 Lauren Dorsee Dillon

      These Mad Style recaps, above anything else, show your talent and chops. The blog format suits you but you would have found great success no matter what platform you chose. Excellent, excellent observations; Janie Bryant has to be pleased that, a, you understand what she’s doing, and, b, you explain it to the rest of us. Thank you.

      As an aside, I would like all of Megan’s wardrobe delivered to me tout suite.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_ENBX3563Q4ZNCVRGSJVFIB7OAA Thom

      The blue-and-green dress on Peggy made me think of how conflicted she must feel: she already knew what her mother would think, but she still sought the approval. That was a slick move, using such a similar print on Megan: the colors say how much they’re playing their cool, the prints say how wildly emotional they are right now.

    • http://www.facebook.com/luv2birdie Elana Bryan

      When I was 8 years old in 1969 I got a pair of white vinyl go-go boots – seeing them on Sally gave me some great memories!   After what Tlo has to say about their sexual connotation at the time, however, I guess I was probably looked at as a little floozy :-) Oh well, I thought I was the coolest little kid EVER.

    • http://www.facebook.com/luv2birdie Elana Bryan

      When I was 8 years old in 1969 I got a pair of white vinyl go-go boots – seeing them on Sally gave me some great memories!   After what Tlo has to say about their sexual connotation at the time, however, I guess I was probably looked at as a little floozy :-) Oh well, I thought I was the coolest little kid EVER.

      • TxMom2011

        I had a red and a white pair handed down by an older cousin.  I wore those things until most of the vinyl had peeled off!  I  thought I was FIERCE!

        • carolynmo

          I wanted a pair of go-go boots so badly when I was Sally’s age. My good friend had a pair almost identical to Sally’s, and I coveted them. Coveted. I immediately thought of that when Sally walked out.

          • cleep1000

            We wore “go-go” boots in elementary school in the late ’60s. I think TLo has slightly overstated the sexual context. They were simply the style at the time.

            • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_RHLSUVX3NCPB4OSS5BM7GZIXUE P. Capet

              possibly, but i know i wasn’t allowed to wear them.  but then my italian-american mom was unusually strict.  makeup also streng verboten.

            • malarkey

              I was never allowed go-go boots either. The ones I coveted belonged to a classmate. White leather, calf high, low heel. gawd, they were fabulous. 

            • TxMom2011

              We couldn’t wear go-go boots to school, only loafers.  In fact we could only wear “pant-suits” all matchy-matchy and ugly as heck.  That changed in the mid 70s though.  I didnt own another pant suit until well into my working career, and the only one I owned was black.

            • roadtrip1000

              You got to wear pants! I went to a public elementary school in Manhattan (’62 to ’68) and  girls still weren’t allowed to wear pants to school then. If there was a snow storm we would wear pants for the walk to school, but then had to take them off upon entering school. How dumb was that rule? It seems so Taliban-y today. I was thrilled when I entered junior high and could wear my purple denim hip-hugger bell bottoms with the embroidered dove patch!

            • Sweetbetty

               My reaction exactly.  I graduated HS in ’66 and we weren’t allowed to wear pants.  Culottes had come into style and some girls got sent home if they wore ones that weren’t full enough to look like a skirt.  I think it was 1970 that I happened to see some girls walking to HS in pants, not jeans either, and my jaw dropped.  When I was a little girl in Catholic school we wore pants under our skirts in the winter walking to and from school then took them off when we got there.

            • roadtrip1000

              This is one of the reasons I fell it love with MM – it reminds the viewer how much our society has changed. I remember how  puzzling it felt to realize as a teenager that the country that my generation was inheriting wasn’t the same country that we had grown up in as children! The change in values was that rapid.

          • bellafigura1

            I too had white patent knee high go-go boots at Sally’s age, in 1965. 

          • girliecue

            You just described everything I remember about kindergarten.

        • http://profile.yahoo.com/76MOACGITT5AHEG24N6E7RZWDA Kay

           I also had a pair of white go-go boots in the late 60′s. My Mom bought them for me when we went out shopping with her high school buddy who was visiting us from California.  As a kid, I saw the weak moment in Mom and took advantage of it.  The only rule was not to wear them around my Dad ~ which wasn’t hard as he worked a lot and wasn’t too involved in our activities.  I think she regretted it almost immediately, but stuck it out till I outgrew them. Wore them with knee length plaid skirts with kick pleats and a sweater just like Sally did.  They always made me feel awesome and I agree with Elana that there was no sexual connotation about it; I just felt fashionable.  How I wish I could get that feeling back today!

      • TxMom2011

        I had a red and a white pair handed down by an older cousin.  I wore those things until most of the vinyl had peeled off!  I  thought I was FIERCE!

      • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=584364405 Sabrina Abhyankar

        I thought Don was fine with the outfit and make up until the “spread her legs and fly away” comment, when he reconsidered and decided to do the “Dad” thing.

    • bluefish

      I am in love with all of Madame Calvet’s clothes.  Absolutely sensational — all of them.  That black evening gown looked stunning on Julia Ormond.  Forget Megan, lovely as she is — the true dangerous beauty is Mama.

      Thank you both for another wonderful round-up!

    • katenonymous

      I thought there was some interesting parallels–Megan’s evening gown and Peggy’s not-a-proposal-after-all dress shared a color and a neckline shape (although Megan’s was cut much more deeply).

      And Megan wears blue and green while her mother wears red, just as Peggy wore blue and green (love that dress, BTW) while her mother wore pink.

    • NoNeinNyet

      When Joan suggested that Peggy go shopping, I found myself hoping that we would get to see that fabulous acid green dress from the promo photos. Considering how the scene went down, I’m kind of glad that it looks like that dress is for another time. Granted, we haven’t seen Peggy’s striped dress from those promo shots yet, either.

      That pink dress, for me, solidifies that Peggy was just playing the role she thought she was supposed to play. She went into Joan’s office certain that Abe was going to dump her so the idea that he would instead propose threw her for a tailspin. Joan all but told her that if Abe did propose she’d better accept unless she was OK with the relationship ending anyways. With that in mind, Peggy did everything she could to fit the role of a woman about to be engaged. She didn’t have time to think about whether it was what she really wanted, she was a woman on a mission to stay in a relationship she wanted to be in. Had she had the time to think and if there weren’t the social hangups from her mother, her upbringing, and the world of 1966, moving in together may have been exactly what Peggy wanted all along.

      • Cabernet7

        Sadly, I don’t think the clothing in the promo photos ever appear in the actual episodes. 

    • bluefish

      Fun too to see the then ever-present portrait of JFK in Peggy’s living room.  I do enjoy the general restraint of Peggy’s wardrobe — in her way, she’s the most modern of the ladies.  The clothes aren’t always successful and she’s obviously not spending the mega-bucks that Mega and some of other ladies are but she has an eye for what suits her.  And there’s a vaguely mod quality to most of her choices that I like.  I actually quite like the plaid cinched jumper she wore in the scene with Joan.  Would look great with a black leotard and black tights. 

      Megan was definitely rocking the South Asian influence too in her red ballgown, complete with the lovely gold jewelry.  Who can forget the famous photo of Liz bedecked in the plunging evening gown with the huge feathers springing out of her jeweled turban?  That 60s love of the exotic feminine.

    • http://www.joannao.blogspot.com JoannaOC

      Lots of necklaces and ornamented necklines in this episode, too. Mama Olson’s cross and Joan’s pen pendant are obvious signs of identity.  Peggy’s pink pearls, like the dress, are uncharacteristic of her work mode but signal her anticipation of a romantic proposal; Marie’s long pearl necklace with her her shopping outfit are the kind of “good pearls” my mother aspired to own; Mrs. Heinz busy matching earrings and necklace may have been costly,  but they weren’t as fashionaable as the metallic neckline of Megan’s dress.In the dinner sequence, the metallic collar on Sally’s dress echoes the metallic floating collar of Marie’s gown, and Megan’s stunning pearl/gold set bring her into movie glamour territory. I also thought of Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady, not least because Jessica Paré has such a beautiful neck.
      I also loved Megan’s turquoise pendant earrings with her blue/green dress.

    • msdamselfly

      Megan looks like a female version of Don

    • anasmomma

      I remember seeing the JFK photo in the episode when Dawn slept over  on the couch.

    • http://profile.yahoo.com/TM5DRUJQONHESLQ3D2HXR6UDAQ Retro Gibby

      I love Mad Style. I look forward to Wednesdays so I can read what you have to say about the costumes. I didn’t realize it when I saw the episode, but looking at your screen-shots, Sally is dressed a little like Kim McAfee in “Bye, Bye, Birdie.” I’m thinking of the casual outfit she wears during the song, “How Lovely to be a Woman”

      • Linderella

        Ann-Margret in BBB was my first thought, too!

    • http://profile.yahoo.com/TM5DRUJQONHESLQ3D2HXR6UDAQ Retro Gibby

      If it makes you feel any younger, she is playing the mother of someone who is only recently married. 

    • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

      Love your analyses, TLo (et al.)!  This blog has been added to my guilty pleasures.

      Observations: Peggy’s kickpleated dress echoes but doesn’t quite match the orange couch she’s sitting on and the gray partition behind her.  Her colors also call to the romantically-themed graphic on that partition, whose b&w characters look like the sort of scene Peggy was hoping for at dinner.

      This is a stretch, but look at the similar V-neck in Glen and in Michael.  (And subsequently in Megan in her “I guess so” dress, which looks almost sloppy and mismatched on Megan, given her other outfits.)

      The wood-paneled clock fascinates me.  Didn’t it have a prominent placement before SC/SCDP changed location?  Now it’s all but hidden behind file boxes, plus its “10/2″ hand placement harkens back to just about every watch ad.  An attempt to discount the passage of time/make it artificial?

      Joan’s Peter Pan collar stood out for me, not least because of the name of the collar.  For me, it’s a nod toward being stuck in the past and stuck on boys who won’t grow up.  Compared to Joan’s past style, it seems a bit infantilizing (tying her to her new motherhood?  And/or to early, less powerful Peggy, who wore Peter Pan collars early on?)

      Talk about a complete clash of outfits in the restaurant.  Not only does Peggy give herself to Abe, she’s all wrapped up in a pretty bow.  And as much as her work dress differed from her date dress, Abe’s outfit remained unchanged across the two settings.

      Like several commenters, I noticed how closely Peggy’s dress resembles (but is such a far cry from) Megan’s Regency dress.  In certain lighting, I’d swear that’s the same shade.

      Speaking of Peggy’s and Megan’s colors, Megan’s gold metallic dress at the Heinz dinner made me think of Peggy’s “power color” gold.  In this episode, Megan’s idea has trumped Peggy’s.

      A friend of mine (who was 19 in 1966) shared the same ethnic background as Peggy and had that same portrait of JFK in her living room, up through the 1990s.

      • Sweetbetty

         That large Peter Pan collar on a scooped neck was very much in style in that time period.  I can totally accept Joan wearing it in her attempt to keep up with fashion while staying away from the shift dresses and mini-skirts that so many other women were wearing.  I remember a turquoise princess style A-line dress of a fabric with some sheen to it and a  large white satin PP collar at the scooped neck that I wore to our homecoming dance in my senior year of HS in 1965.  I absolutely adored that dress.

    • http://profile.yahoo.com/TM5DRUJQONHESLQ3D2HXR6UDAQ Retro Gibby

      I share your fantasy. I want most of what Peggy wears. 

    • denkimofu

      These are by far the smartest blogs on Mad Men around. I really admire the detail of the costume analyses. But I would like to add that I think they would be even stronger if they also accounted for the arrangement of costume from the point of view of composition. For example, in the  scene featuring Peggy’s red kickpleat pictured above, Peggy is sitting camera left facing right with a streak of red visible in the kickpleat. In the scene where she is cosulting Joan, Joan is seated in the same position, also with a streak of red in the same position (her chair). The same red appears elsewhere in the episode, not in clothing but in set details. In one scene at the Draper apartment, we see Megan framed in a bright rectangle of red. I think the red in scene one links the women to each other, not Peggy to her workmates. I think the similarity between Glen’s maroon shirt and Stan Rizzo’s maroon shirt suggest a connection instead.

    • frances rossi

      With the exception of the pink sweater and jumper Megan wore, I would die for any of her looks. So sharp, cute, stylish and FINE.

    • Eva Stephenson

      Could Megan be expecting? I’ve never noticed her with a little tummy before – she’s always been straight up and down.

    • makeityourself

      Pantyhose!

      I posted the same word back on Monday. These shorter dresses (Sally’s included) were wearable because of the invention of pantyhose. Check out how dark and matte Megan’s legs look at the office now. Everybody had legs that color from the late ’60s to the early ’80s.

      It’s interesting how “old” MM’s female characters look. Marie is in her late 40s or early 50s and Megan is 26. Women that age today don’t dress in ensembles or have their hair “done.” It’s a blow-dry, sportswear and jeans society we live in. I don’t care for it and try to inject as much glamour as possible into my life, but it’s a losing battle.

      • formerlyAnon

        The hair! The hair! Looking at the Heinz dinner pictures, I kept thinking “These are the last years in which [stylish] white women spend almost as much time on their hair as do black women!”

        • Sweetbetty

           Oh yes, the hair.  I looked at Megan’s French curls at the formal dinner and remember how every girl wanted those in that era.  The day of my senior prom in ’66 I went to the beauty shop and heard the stylist exclaim as her previous customer, obviously another prom-going teen, left, “If I have to do one more head of French curls today I’m going to scream”.  When I got into her chair and she asked me what I wanted done I sheepishly said, “French curls”.

          • Lisa_Cop

            Blow dryers weren’t invented until the late 60′s. Their invention was key to new unteased (and often short) hairstyles. And because they were so easy to use and dried hair more quickly than conventional dryers, weekly visits to the hair salon gradually became obsolete.

    • bellafigura1

      Peggy looks very uncomfortable in both the girlyfem pink dress with the pearl choker and the wifeyfem blue/green dress with the crossed neckline that looks like it’s choking her, and I think this foreshadows the doomed relationship with Abe (whom I love!).  Peggy is most comfortable in her office clothes, and no amount of snag-a-man shopping advice from Joan is going to change that.  And Joan’s cartoony neckline — as you astutely pointed out — demonstrates that her kind of woman is not modern, and Peggy would do well to NOT follow her advice.

      Julia Ormond looks absolutely sensational. That black dress is stunning. I was actually hoping there’d be a Don/Marie moment.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_WEBUD6SOI6ODRILS6RM2LQYMMU nu

      I do wish Mona had gotten some love in all her post-Roger fabulousness this week.

      And what kind of store would have sold that dress for a *pre-teen*, in the appropriate size, in ’66? 
      (You mean hyper-sexualizing our girls isn’t a modern-day thing?)

      • bellafigura1

        Sally’s dress isn’t at all hypersexualized -  I was her age that year and had the same exact type of dress (and the boots).  It’s blouse-y, near her knee, drop waist, straight cut.  It is the little girl version of her mom, though, that’s for sure.  It’s the boots that are the sexy part.

    • uprightcitizen

      I was struck by two things. The optimism of a couple of Peggy’s choices, namely the pink babydoll dress she wore awaiting a proposal, and the hat she wore to work the next morning. That hat style (I remember it from my childhood, worn by Marlo Thomas in the opening credits of “That Girl!” and by Streisand in “On a Clear Day), and its upswept shape always seemed so hopeful, and just a little childish on a grown woman. Like a hat you couldn’t possibly be sad in. Come to think of it, that pink babydoll could have come right out of Streisand’s wardrobe for “On a Clear Day,” as well.

      Megan’s work wardrobe always looks so ahead of its time. The striped skirt and turtleneck, as well as the pale plum wrap dress could both have been worn by Mary Tyler Moore’s Mary Richards to go into work in the mid-70s. There’s nothing about them that would date them as 60s at all.

      When you add in Joan’s dresses, you practically have three completely different generations of appropriate office attire for women.

      I thought it was a little unrealistic that Roger and Megan’s mother would have chosen that location for their “act,” however quick it was. After all, the hallway outside was busy, the door was obviously unlocked, and they were in direct sight line of it. Seemed like they could have had Sally stumble upon them even if their tryst was a little more discreet. What a shock for her, after she made such an effort to be so grown up, even to the point of reconsidering her hatred of eating fish … and after Roger had made such a fuss over her.

      • bellafigura1

        That’s what made it illicit and exciting. And clearly, neither Roger or Marie has much interest in kids!

    • http://onionjam.tumblr.com SkipperJane

      Saw you got a cross-posting at Slate.com – how long has that been happening?

    • http://twitter.com/Neomeris Meredith M

      Wonderful as always! I know the updo and metallics connect Sally to her stepmom, but the sleek blonde hair and cool silvers also remind me of the ice queen, the original Mrs. Draper. That actress is so well cast. She looks like both parents and on top of all that, can really act!

    • BigShamu

      Can I thank you for the beautiful photos you provide?  Beautiful.

    • B Lee

      More and more, I’ve had a feeling at what is going on with Megan’s character is that she serves as a kind of ‘alternate universe’ Peggy and looking at the pictures you posted makes me think it even more.

      Which is to say, I think possibly Megan’s character serves as an example of the life Peggy might be living if Peggy were more beautiful, had a better fashion sense and was more socially ‘at ease’.

      It really struck me in an earlier episode where Don and Megan are having dinner at Pete’s and she says her ambition to be a copywrighter was inspired by Don AND Peggy. Last year I thought Megan was possibly jealous of Peggy but now I think she MAY revere her in some way or fashion.

      But getting to the costumes:

      The one that REALLY struck me was the similarity between Peggy’s blue/green dress worn to entertain her mother and the dress Megan wears welcoming her parents, which has almost exactly the same colors.

      While the scoop-necked pink dress Peggy wears for her anticipated marriage proposal could be seen as ‘Joan-ish” – within the show, it could be seen as anticipating the bejeweled coral scoop-necked dress Megan wears to the awards ceremony.

      Going FURTHER, the raspberry jumper Megan wears later in the show is of a very similar cut to the plaid jumper Peggy wears earlier.

      More out on a limb, possibly Megan’s black shirt and plaid skirt calls out to Peggy’s black dress with the red kick pleats (a term I never would have known without reading this site!).

      Going back to the very first episode of the show, Peggy put the moves on Don and he rebuffed her (as it turned out, he had less scruples about most other women). I think last year, there was an episode where Peggy ASKS Don why he was not receptive to her when he had sex with so many other women. It’s not that she seems to be in love with him so much as it is his rejection adds to her feelings of inferiority as a desirable woman.

      Previously, I had thought the fact that Peggy and Don’s shared love of advertising was kind of a turn-off to Don, but as seen with his joyful reaction to Megan’s successful idea, I guess that’s not it.

      In any case, I think the costumes in this episode are asking us to compare/contrast between Peggy/Megan (hmm, Megan is kind of a similar name to Peggy too, isn’t it…)  – ESPECIALLY in regards to the Don/Peggy relationship.

      Anyway, I just found the link to your Mad Style Blog, and its already one of my favorite reads of the week – keep up the great work!

      • Vlasta Bubinka

        I also think there is an additional element to the alternate universe Peggy if she were beautiful, charming, fashionable, etc. If she were educated. Megan is a college graduate, Peggy went to secretarial school. And as much strength and independence as it took for Peggy to move out to her place (even while she was still in Brooklyn) and then to Manhattan, Megan changed countries to try to find a break as an actress/artist in NYC. Given her father’s stance about unearned money, I wonder how much she could’ve turned to her parents for financial support while she tried to land the big role or otherwise strike it big as an artist of some type.

        • 3hares

          I don’t think her father considered the money “unearned” if her parents give it to her–I could swear we hear her assuring her parents she’s got money on the phone after she’s married. He seemed very supportive of whatever she came to NYC to do originally.  

      • astoriafan

        Really interesting comment, B Lee. There are some pretty clear parallels there in the costuming.

      • sweetlilvoice

        Great comments and welcome to the blog!

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=587271680 Sara Clarke

      And yet again, Megan is dressed in one of the few fashion elements that connect 1966 and 2012: that wrap skirt. The wrap skirt is set to make a serious comeback over the next year (I’ve seen a few this spring but it’s a trend that’s only going to get bigger), and look who’s wearing a wrap skirt this episode…

      • formerlyAnon

        Return of the wrap skirt: oh, lord, please make it so!

      • sweetlilvoice

        I thought Megan’s wrap skirt looked like an Indian blanket…

    • funkycamper

      Excellent analysis as usual.  And I have enjoyed so many comments.  I only  have one thing to add:  It seems unreasonable to me that a man could be seated for dinner at such a nice restaurant without at least wearing a sport coat.  Many restaurants at that time would have turned a man away for wearing a leather jacket.

      • roadtrip1000

         I forget the name of the restaurant but it was an actual restaurant that was (and maybe still is) in Greenwich Village. A leather jacket would have a better chance of being tolerated there as it was the Beatnik/Hippie section of town.

    • http://www.facebook.com/SerenityEarth Serenity Jones-Peace

      Megan’s dress looks like my wedding dress. But my wedding dress was white. Teehee!

      • http://howtofaint.tumblr.com/ How to Faint

        Damn. You had one hell of a wedding dress. Color me green with envy. :3

    • greenwich_matron

      Am I the only one who is wondering how the wife of a marxist academic can afford her fantastic wardrobe? 

      Megan’s wardrobe is too expensive for the wife of a senior partner at a small, struggling agency that recently required a huge capital infusion, but extravagant spending on wife 2.0 is pretty typical. 

      • Sweetbetty

         I’ve been troubled by Don’s apparent wealth too, given the status of the business.  I seem to recall him being given a big bonus of some sort back when is was the old agency; am I right about that?  But even if that’s so, that apartment, the child support he must be paying, and Megan’s wardrobe (even though she’s earning a salary I don’t know if it would cover her clothing budget) must be keeping him on the verge of being broke.

        • http://www.facebook.com/evie.michael Evie Michael

          I got the impression that he isn’t paying child support. I’m not sure, but I remember Henry telling Betty he wanted to take care of her and the kids, and did not want her owing anything to Don.
          I imagine the money he got selling Anna’s and the Westchester house could easily pay for the apartment in Manhattan. 

          • Vodeeodoe

             If he was good at saving, his income from Sterling Cooper would leave him pretty comfortable.
            “Don is Sterling Cooper’s golden boy. After threatening to leave, his
            annual salary jumped from about $35,000 per year to around $45,000.
            Plus, he became a partner. In 1962, that would be like having $315,000
            to spend every year. That’s a lot. In fact, your average creative
            director in a New York advertising firm today, with about 10 years of
            experience, would likely earn less than Don, at a median annual salary
            of $126,400. Even the highest paid “golden” guys and gals in Don’s
            position come in around $220,200. But, hey, he’s Don Draper.”

            • Sweetbetty

               Don never struck me as being especially extravagant (most of his expensive restaurant meals we paid for by the company, as well as most of his travel) so he should have had a nice little nest egg by the time he and Megan hooked up.  He may have been frugal by nature due to his upbringing and also didn’t really have the money to toss around when he was with Betty, though some of the dressy clothes she wore looked like they cost some bucks.  So now he has the money and a whole new life so he’s willing to part with it.  Makes perfect sense.  Thanks to those who reminded me of the various points about Don’s wealth.

        • greenwich_matron

          I once did the math with Don’s salary, and it doesn’t add up. Between the money he gave to Anna (a house), the money he gave to his half brother, to Midge, the payments he would have made for the Ossington house,  his share of the partnership and Pete share, he spent more than he made his entire career. 
          The firm has not made up for Lucky Strike, so it can’t be giving him much income. My best guess is that in today’s money, Megan would have spent $25,000 on clothes and $80,000 on decorating. $300,000 today wouldn’t come close to supporting his lifestyle, and that doesn’t take his $5 million apartment into consideration. 

          • Sweetbetty

             Didn’t he also keep a big stash of cash in his desk drawer at the house he shared with Betty?

            • greenwich_matron

              I think that was the money that he gave to his half brother and got back when he killed himself? I don’t remember how much it was, but I remember that it was a lot given that he had been working for less than ten years and would have had to pay 25% down for his house (maybe Betty’s father helped). Anyway, a guy who keeps cash in a drawer isn’t an investment genius. 

            • roadtrip1000

               It was a considerable sum. I believe it was $5000. Also, when Don went to the hotel where his brother was staying it was the desk clerk who told him of his brother’s suicide. The clerk also said that they found a lot of money in the room. I got the impression that the money was turned over to wherever unclaimed money goes.

            • Sweetbetty

               “Anyway, a guy who keeps cash in a drawer isn’t an investment genius.”        No, but he’s a man who wants to be ready for a quick get-away; a man with something to hide.  I wonder if he still keeps a stash of cash somewhere?

            • greenwich_matron

              I wonder. I also wonder if Megan is going to be as ignorant of their financial situation as Betty was. The big difference is that I can see Megan going on the run with him.

            • Sweetbetty

               Ooo, wouldn’t that be an exciting turn for the show to take.  They could flee to Canada.  Emile probably has some connections with people who could help them hide and he’d be happy to do that once they had given up their capitalist lifestyle :-).

            • greenwich_matron

              and they can be joined by the draft dodging Ginsburg!

            • Sweetbetty

               For sure!

            • formerlyAnon

              If you keep a cash stash in your 30′s you’ll keep a cash stash for the rest of your life – though it may be a smaller, even token amount, if you become more secure psychologically and financially.  In my observation it’s an expression of your psychology regarding money. 

          • Mod_girl

            I seem to remember that his share of the sale of S-C to PPL(the Brits) was $500K?

            • greenwich_matron

              He did. I figured he had to pay taxes on the full amount and plow most of it back into the new firm. I assumed it was entirely cash and capital gains. Given Don had to put up $100k for a six month extension, it seems likely he had to put up twice that amount for the original startup. So with Pete’s $50k, that totals $350k, which eats up the post-tax sale proceeds.

        • Logo Girl

          I think Don netted a generous amount of money, even by today’s standards, when Sterling Cooper was sold to Putnam, Powell & Lowe.

    • Vlasta Bubinka

      I also thought the Continental glamour, height of fashion red dress on Megan called back to the red height of fashion Continental glamour that Bobbie wore in season 2, in the episode in which Jimmy tells Betty that Don and Bobbie have had an affair. The dresses are quite different, but they’re both red and embellished with sewing/beading/jewels.

    • Vlasta Bubinka

      Am I the only one who thinks Sally’s striped dress looks similar to Megan’s wrap skirt? The colors are close, and the horizontal stripes… think about all the visual clues from last season that Sally was looking like a young Betty and now she’s visually channeling the younger Megan.

      And it isn’t it weird that Don has a knack for women that have rivalries with their mothers? It seemed that Betty’s mother always kept tabs on Betty’s beauty and then hated it when she ended as a great beauty and a model. Now Megan counts how often her mother touched Don because they’re in competition.

    • HeatherD9

      Hi there,

      Hopefully another bitter kitten can help me…
       Didn’t Peggy wear that dress w the red kick pleat in S4Ep5,
      The Chrysanthemum & the Sword?  I seem to remember her driving around a soundstage with that sporty skirt perfectly matching the Honda.  Also a thought, that’s the episode in which Sally cuts her hair & Betty claims she gets these ideas from Don’s inappropriate liaisons.
      Any confirmation would be appreciated!

      • judybrowni

        I thought I remembered that kick pleat!

        To be fair, I don’t remember which episode. Although you could do a search on TLO for Mad Style for that episode.

        Janie Bryant recycles looks because that was realistic for characters then (and now!)

        • Sweetbetty

           OK, I’m going to get nit-picky here.  A kick pleat is a pleat in back of a straight skirt to allow ease in walking.  It is usually only several inches long, depending on the length of the skirt with a shorter skirt not requiring as long a kick pleat as a longer one, and ends a few inches above the back of the knees.  The pleats on Peggy’s skirt are not kick pleats; they are inverted pleats of a contrasting fabric.  There, I feel better now :-)

          • greenwich_matron

            Is that the same as a godet?

            • Sweetbetty

               No, a godet would be inserted flush with the surface of the skirt, not folded like a pleat.

          • HeatherD9

            Hello Sweetbetty, 

            Thanks for the clarification.
              My understanding was that TLo were using the term in a more general sense similar to wiki’s ” One or more kick pleats may be set near the hem of a straight skirt to allow the wearer to walk comfortably while preserving the narrow style line”.  I think it had more to do with the intent & utility of a garment design than the placement. So Peggy’s skirt may have a kick pleat in that the red panel allows her to move with a comfortable stride & sit with ease while still maintaining a slimmer silhouette. 
             That said – I recently used “kick pleat” when describing a seam in need of repair to my tailor.  It was, in fact, at the at the back of a pencil skirt much as you describe. 

            May I also say how wonderful it is to have a blog that has members capable of describing the finer points of fashion & attire.  I work at a uni where many of the students wander about in their pjs.  I once commented to a colleague that it was discouraging to see so many of our “best & brightest” looking as if they had just risen from bed.  She suggested that it could be worse, apparently the students at her campus wear outfits that suggest that the only use for their bedrooms is “a quick tumble & tweet” before class!

            • Sweetbetty

                A kick pleat has everything to do with placement.  As your wiki quote
              states, it is near the hem of a straight skirt.  Peggy’s skirt was
              flared and full enough to accommodate any movement she might make
              (except jumping hurdles) and ran from waist to hem.  It was purely for
              decorative effect and not for utility.  I’ve sewn for decades and have
              learned the terms from following pattern instruction sheets.  Many
              people who haven’t had such an indoctrination and aren’t that interested
              in the basics of fashion and design don’t know the terms.  Good for you
              for knowing the right term to use with your tailor.  I hope he didn’t
              charge an arm and a leg for a simple seam repair :-)

        • HeatherD9

          Hi judybrowni, 

          Thanks for the idea…. 
          I took a look on AMC’s site & found a clip w in Highlights 405.  I think it is in fact the same dress.  At least it looks v. similar.  Also, I think you’re right about Janie using outfits more than once to add realism to the characters (& their clothes). 
          In watching the clip I was struck by the themes of both episodes.  In Chrysanthemum, Don & Co decide to “Take a left turn” by convincing the competition to go outside the “bake off” rules set by the client, Honda.  It works beautifully & Don may have gained an edge for SCDP in future negotiations.  Quite a contrast to the Codfish Ball were Don is told that his letter is perceived as a “Biting the hand that feeds” stunt & will limit  SCDP’s options. 

          Also, I’m so very glad I wasn’t Sally & Bobby’s baby sitter in either episode :)

    • natasha2marie

      I was a teensy bit disappointed that you didn’t draw a correlation between the hat that Peggy wore the day after her not-a-proposal dinner, and the hat she wore last season in “The Suitcase.” http://www.tomandlorenzo.com/2010/09/mad-style-the-suitcase-2.html

      Is it a symbol that Peggy will always be the maiden; the girl no one will ever marry?

      Or am I reaching?

    • http://stitchingincircles.etsy.com Tina

      MEgan’s outfit  – neckline, embellishments, earrings — is also conspicuously Indian. Of a piece with late Beatles, perhaps?

    • John Research

      Also, doesn’t Sally’s dress for the party mirror Megan’s for the Heinz dinner?

    • greenwich_matron

      The first time that Megan had dinner with the Heinz lady, they couldn’t have looked less alike. Megan was wearing a vibrant purple print and big jewelry. The Heinz lady said she didn’t want to talk about boring business matters and Megan reluctantly agreed. This episode, where the Heinz lady looks exactly the same, it is clear that she steers her husband’s career. Megan is not only mirroring her clothing, she mirrors her persona on her cue. To be successful, she basically had to become the Heinz lady, which explains why she doesn’t feel happy about it.

      • Sweetbetty

         I never got the feeling that the Heinz lady steers her husbands career.  It’s clear that he discusses it with her but I felt the decisions he made were all his own.

        • greenwich_matron

          I’m sure he felt that way too ;) He complains constantly, he never likes anything, even a campaign based on his(?) idea. He is about to waste another year going to another firm. His wife gives Megan a heads up, gets the pitch, tells her husband how much he likes it and insists that he sign now (after demurring about how that isn’t her place). Even if she didn’t love the idea, there is no way she is going to let him be the guy who spent two years coming up with a beans commercial.

    • HeatherD9

      Hi again Sweetbetty,

      Thanks for the further info.  It make sense when you describe it that way.  I appreciate your taking the time to explain the differences.  I’m sure your sewing experience is very useful in these fashion posts.

      On a similar note — several friends & I  were having a “Those were the days” conversation regarding skills like sewing.  I remarked on what seems to be a progressive inverse ratio in skill sets.  For example; my grandmother made most of the everyday clothes she & my mother wore, mum made all of my special occasion dresses & halloween costumes, and I can (usually) sew a button, hem a cuff & such. If I HAD to, I could probably fix more serious problems like my ripped skirt — although it is easier to take it to the tailor.  Some of my students would most likely just buy a new item. So, in a way, many of us have lost that skill to some degree.  However, my grandmother never had to deal with computers, iphones, database management & etc. so I guess those brain cells have just shifted priority :)

      Although some folks never got into certain skills.  Somehow, I just can’t see Megan or Marie sitting at a sewing machine whipping up another summer blouse for the kids a la Betty in S4E10 Hands and Knees!

      Thanks again for the help,

      H:D

      PS BTW, I’m lucky enough to have a tailor that charges reasonable fees for minor fixes — also a fading skill!

    • http://twitter.com/idlebat J G

      Huh, I hadn’t caught the “Regency” aspect of Megan’s ball gown, though I get that it’s there. To me, it’s looked “Indian-ish.” I loved when you said, last week, that Jane had dressed as “I Dream of Jeannie” for her “exotic” experience – hilarious and true. But the Indian influence has to be one of the cutting-edge aspects of Megan’s coat, gown, and necklace for the Awards no? It’s also, like most of her clothes, a “natural” look, without a lot of heavy foundation garments – and showing some cleavage. In contrast with the outfit she helped Sally pick out, which looks more like an overwrought, TV- and Barbie-influenced tween fantasy of what’s free and youthful rather than something genuinely free and youthful (like Megan’s clothes.)

      BTW Peggy’s “church” dress – for the dinner with her mom – looked a lot like the dress Trudi was wearing at home last week, when she was on the phone with Don. And the exact same palette as the relaxed, unstructured dress that Megan was wearing  at home to greet her parents (when her mother wears the red “Chanel” suit).

      I’ve read your blog on Mad Men for all seasons (without commenting), and you’ve really enriched the show for me. Thanks for all the smart readings. It seems to me like you’re missing a bit this season in terms of how much things like the Civil Rights Act and growing workforce participation are impacting the gender politics in the office, but you still catch so many things I miss. 

    • kim i

      no, wait — i wore go-go boots to school in 1966. in 5th grade.  in KENTUCKY.  and so did have my (female) classmates.  they weren’t knee-highs, though — go-go boots were like cowboy boots; up over the ankle, about mid-calf.  they weren’t so much about sex (at least, as far as we were concerned) — they were about what the dancers were wearing on “where the action is!” and “hullabaloo!”

      i think the thing that happened was — for the first time, all of us, all over the country, at the same time:  we were getting the same messages, the same information.  it didn’t have to start in new york or california and take years to saturate, anymore.   it was on our TV screens, and those shows — at least, the first one (which was the one i watched) came on in the afternoons, after school.  i’d come home and turn it on and moon over the lovin’ spoonful and whatever hairstyles and dresses and shoes (or boots) the dancers were wearing.  and go-go boots were the shizzinit.

      • Sweetbetty

        That afternoon show must have been American Bandstand, hosted by recently departed Dick Clark.  The world of music and fashion owes a lot to him for allowing teens all over the country to find out what was “cool” at the time.  And he was so wholesome and clean-cut that our parents didn’t object.

    • Lisa_Cop

      I absolutely adore the outfit Megan wore coming back from shopping, especially the mod black cap. Wish TLo had said more about it. And someone please give me Marie’s evening gown to wear in a few weeks to the ABT gala.

    • Lisa_Cop

      Yes, although if memory serves, that dress has a small bustle in the back.

      • Lisa_Cop

        Also the painting is by the great portrait painter John Singer Sargent, not Whistler.

    • FloridaLlamaLover

      YES.  My husband doesn’t wander around in his boxer briefs, but our son started doing that when he was in 7th or 8th grade.  In your room, sure, but not out in the family room and kitchen, especially since has a sister who’s two years older than he is.  It was an on-going battle for several years, now he finally throws on a pair of basketball shorts when he comes out of his room. The people who freaked must not have had the joy of living around the pant-as-optional adolescent male.

    • http://www.facebook.com/evie.michael Evie Michael

      Hi TLo, I was re-watching the episode and noticed Mona wasn’t mentioned in the style thread. I know it was a short scene, but didn’t she look amazing? So much younger and hipper than ever. 

    • purkoy28

      I didnt see any comment on this, but did anyone else notice the costuming in the scene when the girls come in from shopping and Don is in his housecoat? Tom and Lorenzo commented on how Megan and her mom blend together while Sally stands out, well, Sally’s  blue coat with her red dress and pattern are exactly the same as Dons blue housecoat with the red pattern, that mimicks Sally. The episode was about kids and their parents and they are really tying Don and Sally together and focusing on their special relationship and similarities.

    • purkoy28

      Correction, the colors of Dons housecoat and Sallys dress and coat match but his housecoats pattern mimmicks Megans coat. He is tied to the only 2 women in his life that he loves, but Sally is so similar to Don that  it helps them really understand each other.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=606557 Nakeisha Blades

      I’m not sure if this was mentioned, but I thought it was fitting that Sally and Megan were both wearing the same color scheme (the dark, navy blue and red stripe details) on days where they both experienced changes in perspective and fit, as opposed to how Peggy’s outfits increasingly confirmed her perspective and fit.

    • Call me Bee

      I know. I’m a year late, but I just watched this episode and it was brilliant! As is your analysis of the story and the styles. I remember those regencey style dresses from the mid 60s, and you can thank the movie Dr. Zhivago for that. The styles in that movie permeated our minds and wardrobes for years!