For Ferragamo Autumn-Winter 2025, Maximilian Davis evolves the inspiration he has drawn from the world of dance, exploring the work of the German Tanztheater and the unbound expression of their liberated choreography. Anchored in visual echoes of the 1920s and 1980s – the decades key to the genre of expressionist dance – the collection explores harmonies across time through Davis’ distinct
lens.
“The twenties were a moment of freedom, of people rebelling and creating spaces for themselves,” says Davis – and straight-cut silken slips are inset with drop-waist lace appliqué, or collaged with strips of shearling, while the era’s uniform details are applied to utilitarian leathers and tailoring. Dreamlike
prints appear in flashes, while handbags are surrealistically filled with fur and off-stage wardrobes are entirely knitted from jersey yarn in fluid reconfigurations of familiar forms. “The surrealist idea of taking everyday objects and making them feel a little disturbed is something I feel very interesting,” explains Davis. “Creating a sense of discomfort in the expected.”
It was the same spirit that inspired choreographers’ work when reviving the Tanztheater movement in the 1970s and 1980s. “It was another time of liberation,” reflects Davis. “And their expression of love through movement feels unexpected; explored in a way that, even decades later, nobody else ever has.” Throughout the collection, the poetic dualities of the German Tanztheater performances – emotive dialogues between love and longing, freedom and control, romance and passion – are expressed through form and fabrication: fluid satin trenches belted taut across the body; cashmere, soft against the skin, positioned next to glossy leathers; feathers flattened; poppies trailing from ribbon-like stems.
The abundant florals of Ferragamo’s eighties campaigns and archival shoes also appear directly translated into footwear: blooms realised in organza, leather, satin, overspill across almond-toe pumps or, for sandals, wrap around calves. Elsewhere, a new wedge, inspired by Salvatore Ferragamo’s midcentury innovation for a seamlessly covered shoe, adopts an elongated, Futurist form.
For men, classic brogues and booties are refigured by the perverse addition of zip fastenings, or the rugged texture of their heavy-grained leather.
In accessories, organza flowers blossom across evening bags, while a new animation of the Hug sees the icon doubled and belted across the body. The Hug also appears as a feathered pouch while it, and the Soft-bag, are animated to reflect the spirit of the season.
[Photo Credit: Courtesy of Ferragamo]
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