The classic British wardrobe is subverted; the codes of tailoring renewed. An exploded shoulder and hourglass waist features throughout. Single and double breasted jackets are cut in traditional Savile Row fabrics. Trousers are neat with a signature McQueen kick-back, cropped flare. Austere overcoats in black cashmere and paisley embroidered camel are the embodiment of sartorial precision. Trench coats are deconstructed, tied around the waist and worn as skirts. Brushed mohair argyle sweaters, engineered Aran knits and oversized cashmere V-necks are layered over white cotton poplin shirts and ties. A raw-cut London fire engine red duffle coat is overblown in proportion. A wool cashmere felt pea coat is finished with soft leather trim. Military clothing is also referenced: a parka and bomber jacket are reconstructed in leather; a cashmere lined leather horse-blanket cape and oversized shearlings are patchworked in tonal shades. As the collection progresses it becomes increasingly opulent: romantic English roses are hand-painted across silk tailoring and adorn tapestry carpet coats inspired by folkloric florals. A magnified monochrome paisley jacquard features across more suiting. Classic tuxedo jackets are worn with jogging pants. Pieced silk floral and paisley jacquard jackets and dressing gown coats with plump, quilted lapels and tailored shoulders are embellished with jet beading.
[Photo Credit: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen]