on Sep 10, 2013 in Whiteboard
Thom Browne Spring 2014 Collection
[Photo Credit: IMAXtree]
I love weirdness with a sense of humor, so…yeah…i like this. I belly laughed at the 10th pic down. The technique and textures here are amazing, though. I dig many of the pieces. How cool is the one that looks like a feathered, white Edward Scissorhands?
I love this too for its technical excellence. There are tons of ideas here that can be translated into the RTW market.
I think there are even a couple of dresses that are RTW with different styling — the ones in the middle after the baroque/fetish nurse’s uniforms.
More than a couple, in my opinion. But lots of these things will work well as separates.
Yes, and some of it not even needing all that much translation.
I would love to see that edited and on the RC. Chop off the sleeves, lose the feather florshons on the boobs and hips & that’s a gorgeous dress.
I couldn’t get past the batshit crazy styling at fordt to see some of the individual pieces. But yes, there is some beautiful craftsmanship here; it’s just buried too far under the cray-cray for my liking.
Seriously. By the end I was scrolling too fast to look at the clothes because of the styling and body language. Victorian doll + lunch lady + medical horror = nightmare fuel.
Bride of the Joker
I thought they were the Joker equivalent of the Robert Palmer girls. Eeek, I’m OLD!
Too expressive for Palmer girls. And I’m even older, I’ll bet.
Boy, Thom Browne is NOT boring. I loved several looks, laughed aloud at a few, and will not look at the rest after dark because I don’t want nightmares.
If I EVER get the privilege of going to NYFW, I will definitely go to his show because that is art. weird art sometimes, but art nonetheless.
Tim Burton’s insane China doll collection. First I thought “this is interesting” (in that tone that implies crazy). Then it started to grow on me and I admire the art.
Well, Edward Scissorhands in a straitjacket…
And what did you do when you saw his menswear collection? You probably ruptured something.
I’m worried about what will happen to you when the Browne fall collections come out in February.
Hate the styling, of course. This collection has Gaga written all over it however, I can see SWINTON in a few.
Is he parodying Marchesa? If so best collection ever
I’m all for weirdness in Fashion, but NO. I don’t want to be this woman, I don’t want to know her. In fact, I’d like her to stay very, very far away.
You don’t want to have tea with HBC while she does her best Joker impression?
Amen. This is screaming for her immediate attention.
Yes. Hers or Lady Gaga’s.
I thought it was her wardrobe for a circuit party.
That was my first thought, but I expect HBC will dye it all black. Which is fine with me.
Dear God, that’s a life goal right there.
My issue is what it says about his POV of women. These looks aren’t flattering to say the least. And what is the take-away? Women are hysterical, Frances Farmer crazy? If one were dressing in costume for a character, then yeah maybe. But what about real women with jobs and kids and – shock – actual figures? IDK, maybe I’m being too serious and it’s all just “silly fashion” but it doesn’t do a thing for me.
I dunno. I mean, I’m aware that I have all sorts of personal bias that swings in the favour of this sort of work. *coughs*
But at the same time, to me it reads less like ‘women are hysterical’, than ‘country-club Stepfords’ are crazy. It reads as if the design they’re wearing externally is a part of them; the demented, programmed interior expressing itself in physical form.
I getcha. But even the whole “Stepford Wife” oeuvre is based on a certain misogyny. But you know, “fashion” etc. : let’s just spend a ton of money and dress kooky.
I do agree that some of the proportions here are INSANE. And not necessarily in a good way. Like Kiltdntiltd said above, I think it could be translated down to RTW. I just wonder if this designer has that in mind. He seems more interested in shock value (especially when it comes to styling) rather than actually selling his wares. Your eye is always going to go to the wack styling first, never the impeccably constructed and sometimes interestingly designed clothes.
I think your last sentence may be an intended takeaway….fashion is insane….and women are “crazy” or doing “insane” things to meet some unattainable ideal.
Or he’s just F*()&g with us. Either way — beautiful construction.
Hm, I can see this now that you mention it. At first, though, I was seeing just interesting organic shapes that have been elaborated and/or overtly fetishized — like S&M coral reefs, kind of. Which in and of itself could be construed as an indictment of fashion rather than of women. I dunno, I find Thom Browne kind of hard to read because I’m so dazzled by the cray and the craftmanship.
Anyway, he makes me think of a cross between Balenciaga and Gaultier, and I don’t really know what that means.
I don’t disagree. But there’s a mad beauty* here that appeals/fascinates, at least for me. And so it’s just a slightly more dramatic instance amongst the multitudes of times I enjoy fashion while consciously ignoring the obvious misogynistic and elitist premises upon which much of it rests.
*And yes. I know that “mad beauty” in the context of an examination of the presentation of women lends itself to saying/supporting way more that is negative and disempowering than that is positive. Can’t help it though, it’s the way I see these.
The first thing I thought when I saw the silhouettes was, wow, that’s *my* silhouette! Being a woman of size, it’s not often that I see anything that I can relate to in fashion. Whether or not it’s “flattering,” I saw myself in it. I just think it’s funny that he had to layer all those pieces on top of a skinny model instead of hiring fuller women to get the same point across.
I LOVE EVERYTHING IN THIS COLLECTION, btw. I love that volume, loudness, and presence is making it’s way forward!
LOVE IT! Yes you have to mentally edit pretty much all of this, but I like this collection. Why is Gaga not wearing any of these pieces on her desperation tour?
And huge credit to the scattering of models in there who clearly get what he’s doing there and have thrown themselves head-first into the crazy. Rock on, you broken-down, bloody-mouthed dolls.
Aurgh. Love. Gaga. Helena. The styling is derivative, but he’s so committed (*) to it that I don’t even care, and the architectural wizardry is food for my soul. Refreshing, particularly after some of those uh, more bland runways.
(* I hate puns. I do. I’m so sorry.)
Those ladies really have to learn how to apply their lipstick.
First thought: Heath Ledger as the Joker.
Second thought: The lady trying to reapply her lipstick in “Airplane!”
Now I need to go back and actually look at the clothes!
Third thought: Alaska’s in-the-dark makeup application on last season’s RPDR.
I was thinking that now we know what happened to Baby Jane.
Uh . . . there is certainly a lot of architectural wizardry going on here. I must admit I’m instantly repelled by the Joker makeup. He knows how to elicit a reaction, that’s for sure.
That last dress looks like a white chocolate fountain. Mmmm, white chocolate fountain, why don’t those exist?
Oh those poor girls.
My thoughts exactly. I don’t think this is what they signed up for.
It’s exactly what they signed up for. Literally.
True, though I meant it metaphorically, as in what they had in mind when they embarked on their modeling careers.
Most models would kill to walk a New York Fashion Week runway for a hot designer and most models we’ve met love the opportunity to wear something outside the norm, which tends to get boring for them.
Ahhh, those are very good points. Yeah, thinking about it, i bet they’re happy for the diversity. I am, obviously, new to the high fashion world, and happy to be educated.
Quite a few of them seem to be having fun with it, they’re certainly not letting the styling do all the work.
That’s a model who is clearly committed to her job. And she deserves every red cent she gets.
Oh, agreed indefinitely.
I don’t feel sorry for them. Video of yourself walking well and owning these has to be a selling point in a portfolio. All the layers of clothes and the styling (especially the big hair and All The Stuff – gloves, beads, glasses, snoods, purses) – this was no easy show to work. And props to the models and dressers back stage. Changes must have been insane.
Great point! about the Changes!
I see dead people.
I love people with a sense of humor.
Didn’t RuPaul have this makeup challenge already?
“your makeup is terrible!”
why so serious, lady gaga?
Where are looks like this when PR does an avant garde challenge? I don’t see any of these going to straight to Shelly O, but this gives me even more respect for her choosing him in the past.
I don’t find the styling innovative or interesting. It’s derivative and just plain offensive. You have a so-so collection to show, so you style your models like they belong in a Beetlejuice remake?
I find the styling cliched but I don’t see what’s so offensive about it.
My problem is that it is clearly done for shock value and completely distracts from the clothing, which means it is at cross purposes with the point of having a collection shown in the first place.
I think it complements the clothing. IMO, these aren’t garments that can be sent down a runway with a clean face & a ballerina bun, or even a smoky eye and a strong lip. His styling to me is always cohesive with his clothes.
I agree with you that neither of those options were viable. I, however, disagree that the styling is cohesive with the clothes. I stand by my earlier statement that much of this styling is meant for its shock value and not to play up the clothes and the themes he is representing here. He could have gone in myriad directions that would play to the clothes. He could have styled the girls as a young Miss Havisham, with wild hair and pale, ash streaked makeup. Or he could have gone a futuristic angle. To me, the smeared lipstick is a half-assed way to get everyone’s attention, but on the model’s faces, not the clothes. It’s tacky and lame.
I think it compliments the clothing.
Only if the runway had a Harry Belafonte soundtrack.
I love it! Grumpy Grandmother Chic.
Gee, that’s what most women want, their hips to look bigger. Pieces were overworked, unwearable and for the most part unflattering. Don’t get me started on the Heath Ledger as the Joker styling. Wasn’t that over 5 years ago?
So excited that big hips are in! I don’t even need to spend a fortune on designer clothes to get the look.
I love this collection! Every piece is gorgeous. I can’t help but think that the models walking this runway must have had a fun with the crazy styling.
Clear influence of the Miss Havisham variety, which is understandable, given the upcoming Great Expectations with Helena Bonham Carter as that character, coming out in a month or so. Disheveled, deranged brides all over the place. However I agree with the statements that this all looks right in Lady Gaga’s wheelhouse and would beautiful on Swinton too.
If you go past the crazy-ass styling, there are some great items in there. And the workmanship is immaculate.
Helena Bonham Carter, Gaga, and Tilda are all over this.
Gorgeous. Perfect for HBC.
I had no idea the Zombie Apocalypse had hit the fashion runways.
American Horror Story : Easy Fake Coven.
I love you.
I’ve been singing that Goddamn Ben ever since you posted “Ken”. So I hope you’re happy.
ROFL! I have too!! (Well until today when someone gave me the new Janelle Monae CD).
Did you see her absolutely KILL in Letterman last night? She was channeling some old school James Brown realness. I loved every minute of it.
Oh yes. I love all her backup too. When she jumped on the desk!!
Way to work a stage! A solid kickoff for her new CD.
Undead Alice in Wonderland?
Some of the models look like they are loving it so good for them!
That being said I probably don’t “get” what the designer is trying to say so I’ll just move along to the next collection.
That’s definitely not along the lines of making the models looks bland so that the clothes are being noticed.
LOVE LOVE LOVE
It’s really hard to see what he’s doing here, what with all the insane styling. Some of the pieces seem like they might be wearable, but man, it’s hard to get past the Insane Clown Posse.
Latex gloves with attached fingernails? Just what the fashion-forward gynecologist will be wearing next spring!
I had to go back to see those. That’s… disturbing.
OMG I’m crossing my legs at the mere thought of it!
All sorts of crazy-ass fuggery that McQueen did better last year.
At least we know what Lady Gaga will be wearing for the next few months.
I beg to differ that McQueen did this better last year. IMO Burton’s collection was an overwrought, over thought, over designed mess and she only showed 10 variations of 5 designs.
With that said I think McQueen did this better with his spring 2007 “Sarabande” collection.
I really don’t think McQueen will ever reach the heights it had while he was still alive. It’s unfortunate, and Miss Burton is trying to make the best of it, but she is not Alexander McQueen, and his skill as a designer is still too fresh in everyone’s minds.
Sarabande remains one of the most breathtakingly beautiful and creative collections I’ve ever seen.
I can’t help but love this crazy bastard. I love the play on proportion the most. And the kind of crazy, desperate elegance to it all. Meh to the styling, but I can see past it, and, honestly, it made me giggle.
It’s all Gaga… just ship the whole collection to her for the remainder of her HBC phase! Hope the models had fun. It is not dull, that is for sure
This runway is nutty but I appreciate that the models did different versions of insane. I’d hazard that many of them enjoyed doing something other than stomp-stomp-fierce, just to mix it up.
I see straight jackets.
Well, I know what I’m going to be for Halloween.
Miss Havisham realness! I love it! I have to ask though – are these type of designers just like, eccentric millionaires who make fashion collections for fun? There are so few wearable pieces. Maybe their clients are used to asking for alterations to make them more wearable? I’m honestly curious about this.
According to style.com the inspiration for the collection is “insanity”. Some of Browne’s influences were Baby Jane, H Ledger’s Joker, American Horror Story Asylum, and Frances Farmer.
I would say he hit the nail on the head. This is batshit crazy in that Thom Browne way I love.
Not to be all capsy, but WHAT IS HAPPENING HERE? Is this entire collection made exclusively for Helena Bonham Carter?!?
I love the lunch lady snoods.
And the models he chose are pretty good actresses too.
I don’t know – if I had to wear some of these clothes down a runway, I think my face would have a similar expression.
This is terrible, who is the woman he had in mind when “designing” this mess? Also, – and I might be the only one making this
connection- but I kept thinking: This is incredibly
offensive. Aurora, CO anyone?
Bless his muthafuckin perky-snood-genius heart….
This collection is weird (in a fun way) and it definitely has HBC written in giant bold letters all over it.
What a terrible waste of beautiful fabrics!
I can’t look! I had to scroll fast because of the scary faces!! I suspect some of this is beautiful though.
Wardrobe problems solved for the next Hunger Games movie.
I love sculptural clothing more than the average bear, but he should have left the first 8 or 9 looks on the sewing room floor. The rest is interesting and occasionally also beautiful.
i get that it’s a fashion show.
i do. i get it.
but i can’t take my eyes off the crazyass hair and makeup long enough to LOOK at the clothing.
He has absolutely no ability to edit. It’s like he throws stuff at a dress form and sees what sticks. Ghastly!
The fabrics are gorgeous and the workmanship commendable, but what a ridiculous display of insane clown clothes.
I hate the way he’s styled these models. I’d be curious to know what’s inside his head, but then again, maybe not.
That is some Alice In Wonderland levels of WTFuckery right there. It’s beautiful to look at but I’d be interested to see how this translates into real world fashion.
They should have had Helena Bonham Carter close the show.
who the fuck is even coming near these clothes other than gaga and nicki minaj?
i’m sure it made for a great and fun show to watch walk by – but this shit is whack.
Eduardian Joker realness.
“Ya wanna know how I got these scars?”
Don’t care for this collection but truly hate the hair and make up. Bringing up Joker and somewhat idolizing the character (or why else make the models represent it?) is especially in poor taste considering the connotations after what happened in Aurora, CO.
The Joker is a character with a 75-year history that has nothing to do with the Aurora shooting.
True. It doesn’t. And it very well can be that such reference occurred only to me, for my own reasons. But regardless of actual events: I’m failing to see the appeal of styling models as Joker – the crazy bad guy.
I just wanted to add the Aurora shooting happened during a premier of
the third Nolan movie, Dark Knight Rises, which did not include the
Joker at all.
I may be looking into it too much (but really, that’s what styling like this is supposed to do right? make you think?) but for me the Joker makeup/crazy eyes/asylum nurses references Heath’s brilliant method acting and how playing the character (supposedly) drove him crazy, which lead to him abusing prescription drugs which lead to his death. Do I really think Thom is making that reference? No, but for me, that’s what I see.
The Joker is my favorite character. Sure, he’s violently deranged, but he’s also utterly unencumbered by societal expectations–including morals–which gives him a certain freedom that is enviable. There is no rhyme or reason to the Joker. He isn’t even a nihilist. To people who live in a highly structured, regimented world, that is very appealing.
Also, Heath Ledger’s Joker was the only thing about that movie I liked. The rest of it was insufferable tripe.
I didn’t get Joker so much as Beetlejuice, which I mentioned in another post. The thing that bothers me most here is the very first image of a lovely Black woman who looks like she’s been styled just like the old time blackface minstrel shows, complete with red red lips and googly eyes. Maybe I’m reading too much into it though.
I get Robert Smith.
As the second model has similar specs on and the red lipstick is on everyone I don’t see that at all. But yeah, with all such things we overlay our own references and sensitivities.
I’m just glad he had the good sense to only put the white powder on the Caucasian girls.
I see what you mean, but I think the proportions and oddity of the whole show take it to a different place; referencing the past, but maybe also just making the most of her beautiful skin color. You can definitely see Mammy, but you can also Nanny, and Nurse, and Grammy, and Dolly … ghostly WACS from some lost war or other? The references are kind of all over the places, but united into a new synthesis, too.
It’s fascinating to see how polarizing this collection is! I’m on the love it side. True, the styling is OTT but some of these look very wearable: Numbers 10, 11, 15, 20, 29 and 31 are all great once you get past the styling.
I can’t believe you left this to the whiteboard! How am I to know what to think
Anyway – love this. Cracked out, but still technically brilliant.
Going back to Carolina Herrera’s now.
Arkham Asylum couture fetish nurses.
With big hips.
Cool concept, but McQueen did it better in Fall/Winter 2010
You know, it took three scrolls through, but it finally dawned on me that, weird styling aside, I actually love this, particularly that final, glorious, gorgeous whatever it is, wedding gown, I guess. That one is just stunning.
Yes, the last dress is lovely.
It’s like he was only really shooting for Gaga’s attention.
This is what I wear The Day of The Dead, ha! Interesting for a Performance piece or the theatre and, of course, Lady Gaga.
Styled by Tim Burton.
WTF? I can’t with the styling. It distracts so much from what look to be interestingly (if sometimes overdesigned clothes).
Nope. I’m good here. I recognize the technical ability- it’s amazing work- but I only like the 15th, the 21st and the last outfit. As costumes I find them amazing, but I don’t think they’d translate well off-runway.
Helena Bonham Carter goes to Wimbeldon.
Wow! Things are getting interesting. I didn’t think he had it in him. I love it. I wouldn’t necessarily wear all of it, but I love it.
Too meta for me. A collection based on Lady Gaga who is herself a persona based on randomly cobbled-together couture. I feel deeply unsettled, find me my Milk of Magnesia before you get off my lawn.
God you gave me a good chuckle! First whole-hearted laugh of the day, for that I thank you!
Wow! he really hates women.
That’s the first thing I thought, and yeah, who is this guy and does he sell human clothing?
He had a break out a few years ago making shrunk Pee Wee Herman like men’s garments. Those really skinny suits for men are all from his influence. it’ sort of bew open the world of men’s clothing design..he was called in to do a collection for brooks brothers.
And as a side point, those semi-shrunken men’s garments that only the lean and young can wear without looking stuffed into the wrong size, are at least a mild argument that it’s partially disregard of the human form in general, not always directed solely toward the female.
That skinny shrunken look references styles worn by men in the early 1960′s. Those styles in turn referenced Ivy League/ prep school looks. It ‘s an adorable look on the lean. This collection with bloody mouths, exploded or disintegrated breasts and hips isn’t a funky take on the past but is angry violent and hostile towards the women wearing these garments.
He’s not doing the cute little Pee-Wee suits for men anymore:
He’s mounting runway shows for his menswear collections just as deliberately provocative and “disturbing” as his womenswear shows. There’s no evidence he “hates women” or that he’s “angry violent and hostile” toward them. This is just how he likes to do runway shows – for men and for women.
His current menswear collection plays with gender and proportion but does not play at violence at the wearer like this women’s wear collection does.
What does that mean, “play at violence against the wearer? What violence is being perpetrated or even portrayed here?
Thanks Sarah — He should definitely do theater costumes or the next Tim Burton epic.
Oh, look. Sweeney Todd threw a white party!
TRYING WAY TOO HARD TO BE McQueen
Im still like Thom Browne, who the fuck are you? But your designs are amazing
Uh, HBC is going to rock these? And then it will all make sense to me.
Self indulgent movie costumes.
All these models are evil lunch-lady clowns from the future and/or outer space.
This is especially unsettling after that wonderful Carolina Herrera collection.
If Helena Bonham Carter and Lady Gaga birthed a child that became a clothing designer…
Your move McQueen
Why do I look at this and think Lee McQueen did this better, the exaggerated hips and the tailoring coupled with crazy make up and air.
I LOL’d with the smudged lipstick and big hair on some of the models, like they’re posing 10 different versions of what would Helena Bonham-Carter look doing the walk of shame in London.
The actual clothes I like. The styling looks like there was a herd of rabid squirrels backstage attacking the models while they changed clothes for their second trip down the runway.
I feel like THIS is one of the coolest days as a model.
I just wish I had been there when these all came down the runway. What kookoo. And some of it is just gorgeous.
The styling feels a bit ‘America’s Next Top Model’ final runway-ish.
Love it, except there is not much variation. Vampires on the runway. Cool, but what will they do if they feel super happy? Smear the lip stick upwards so it will become a clown face?
My favorite part of this is seeing which models were going for it and which were saying fuck my life.
Personal couturier to Helena Bonham Carter, right?
He really can do jackets like no other! That one 8th down is incredible.
And I’m surprised to say I kind of love one of the dresses–the one with the blue-and-white large shell/fan looking motifs meeting in the center.
I’d really love to see all of these up close (and touch them of course). The workmanship is amazing, but so much of it is ‘too many ideas’ for mere mortals to wear.
Okay, I just realized the one blouse (possibly Asian model, carrying boxy bag with red/white/blue ribbon on it) says something. I see “Are Fu” but can’t make out/see the rest (plus the pearl Christmas tree garland is in the way LOL). Anyone know what it says?
Pretty sure the last word is “fun”. No clue what the first word is.
You can see it better on Style. Looks like Bikes Are Fun. It’s definitely ‘are fun’ but I’m guessing at ‘bikes’ as it’s partially hidden but it looks like that.
I’m sure I replied earlier :/ Anyway, seems to be ‘Girls are fun’. I wasn’t sure on the first word as you can hardly see it so I googled it and there’s some references to a preview tweet by Thom Browne saying that and it fits.
Very Lunch Lady Doris married into money and went insane shortly after her first space tourist training session.
so gaga’s going to go, well, gaga trying to pick just one to wear on halloween.
I wonder if this was a bet or a dare? I’m all for taking risks or being avant-garde or being conceptual (or whatever the excuse here was), but Victorian-era Asylum Clown is not that– it’s just scary. I do like the collar on the second-to-last look, I suppose, but mostly because I feel like I should say at least one nice thing
LOVE this collection!
Aw I love when you post these collections. The comments are a hoot!
Really fascinating with some elements that work brilliantly. I love the sheer over the tweed for instance and his workmanship is exquisite. But for me, the really interesting thing is those hourglass shapes he’s playing with. Creating corsetted forms but without the negative reduction on the waist so the shapes are hanging on the body rather than coming from it… changes the whole perception of that as a shape. As although built up hips etc are as old as clothes, they normally are used to emphasis a reduced waist, but not here. Not sure what I think of it, or that I like it, but it’s interesting to see.
I’m sorry, these are beautifully constructed sculptural objects, but they are not clothes. This is absurd.
gaga & boham-carter are already taking out their platinum credit cards.
i dont think the smudged lips were necessary, though. they are distracting, and the collection is weird and beautiful on its own.
Fashion’s version of the concept car: none of this is ever going into mass production, but it’s art, some of it is very well made, and bits and pieces will show up in RTW.
Gaga from the neck down, Courtney Love from the neck up. I appreciate a gimmick, but the deliberately terrible makeup and hair is drawing all the focus from what are really interesting garments.
That’s exactly what I was thinking as I scrolled down. The clothes might be okay, but the Fright Night styling on the models is all I could really see.
The only thing that truly stands out to me is the last piece. The shapes are incredible. That is some cray-cray structuring.
Baby Jane Goes to Nursing School
THIS is amazing! As a designer and sewer of Madrigal costumes, I see a LOT of Renaissance influence. LOTS. the high collars, some of the design lines, the puffy parts. Referential but not copies. I LOVE THIS!!!!!!! It would be so freaking awesome to see!!
I see Halloween came early. The last one is actually lovely. Bulging pustules on 12,17,19,30,33, and others ! Ugh! Whipped cream boobs has an awful infection! The Bride of Frankenstein never had it so good. Yikes! They’re fascinating and architectural, but one can’t piece out parts of these for everyday uses (unless your Steffi or HBC).
Then again, these would be an improvement on Miley Cyrus.
I can see Helena Bonham Carter wearing this entire collection!!!
AKA Helena Bonham Carter’s new closet
Cracktastic! Now we know what Gaga will be wearing when she runs to the corner store to buy tampons.
While I can see that these are technically very difficult garments to sew, it just looks my grandma watched the hunger games one too many times, fell into a pile of coke, and then decided to just go about her day.
I enjoy your imagery. I can see this animated 60-ish woman cleaning out the bridal notions at her nearest fabric store.
the fuck? heath ledger commemorative show? self-indulgent much?
Was there lots and lots of laughter in the house?
They way some of those clothes are built out to make the wearer look bigger bug me. I get that it clashes with the models tiny body in a humorous way- but I think it would have been braver and more interesting to use some large models who would fill the dress.
/tilts head sideways and squints
So here’s my problem with these: The dresses SEEM to be interesting and often beautiful and sometimes stunning, but I’m finding it really really really hard to get past the “Spawn of Gaga and Helena Bonham Carter” styling, which is itself really interesting and often beautiful and sometimes stunning. So for me, Thom has totally overshadowed his line with his dramatic styling, and I just can’t picture how these would look on a woman who wasn’t Heath Ledger’s Joker in drag.
Now I have some good Halloween costume ideas.
Each and every one of those models went out and got drunk after that show. As well they should have.
I can’t help thinking that a model with video of herself in her portfolio walking well and owning these has a huge selling point. A lot of these look unusually uncomfortable (those hugely embellished high necklines!) and cumbersome. The bigger hair looks like you need to be thinking about its dimensions & balance quite consciously as you move, and god knows just having All That Stuff all over you means you really have to know what to do with your body, your hands, your face All The Time. No real periods of relatively undemanding “X beats of walk-walk-walk” in between the turning/displaying/angling/posing.
Thanks, I hadn’t thought of it that way.
or maybe before?
I am convinced this collection was inspired by Heath Ledger in The Dark Knight, specifically that scene where the Joker wore a nurse costume to sneek in to the hospital to visit Harvey Dent. Not gonna lie, it kind of works for me. I dig it. Nicely done.
That’s exactly what I thought (Heath Ledger as the Joker, in the nurse costume). But it doesn’t really work for me, mostly because I wasn’t thrilled with the movie. I guess I prefer my Batman movies as more superhero, less horror. This collection, to me, revisits the horror and overshadows the fashion. But I sense I am not the customer Thom Browne is looking for.
Oh Thom Browne, Thom Browne. Wherefore art thou the master of combining pretty and WTF? How hard do you make me work to deconstruct all that FABULOUS construction and technical brilliance to find potential ready to wear clothes!
HUGE shout out to the styling with sculptured strings of pearls in 12th photo up from the bottom. LOVE. And with the same intensity, I HATE the high-heeled peep toe lace ups. With everything going on here, I think those peep toes are what I dislike most because we are going to see them worn all over the place I’m sure.
Gotta say, coat (and jacket) whore that I am, it was surprisingly tough to see through the Whiskey Tango Foxtrot wretchedly rococo, beautifully executed excess to a few jackets upon which to drool, but they’re there.
Also: Mad props to the folks dressing the models (& the models) back stage. These looks had to be HELL to get on and off correctly with styling adjusted in the time and space available.
I loved that blouse(12th photo up from bottom) but the skirt looks like it gaps between buttons in 2 places. Still I love how he made white on white so interesting. for me, the whiteness made it less depressing (I blocked out the faces with my toolbar, though, just to make it less thorazine-worthy.
The ladies who lunch… at the asylum.
Yes, Arkham Asylum.
Virgin Helena Bonham Carter
It’s a very hospital/asylum inspired collection and completely unwearable. I love it!
OK, NOW, I get it. I kept thinking: what do nurses have to do with the insane, joker-wannabe, broken dolls.
It must be refreshing for the models to do something different than just stomp stomp bitchface turn stomp stomp. The styling looks a bit like a Chanel couture show.
Lady Gaga & HBC, no waiting on aisle 3…
I loved loved loved many of the clothes – gorgeous and intricate and just fascinating. I found my self blocking the faces, so I could just focus on the clothes alone and keep from getting a migraine.
I’m thinking now of how Nina Garcia often holds a paper up above her eyes when watching the runway shows on PR — could that be why? I thought it was to cut down glare from overhead lights, but maybe not….
Loved 13, 20 and 21. And some others but I kept losing count because my cat is distracting me. She got excited about the feathered look, of course…
Rob Zombie Presents: Mr. Selfridge, Series 2!
In heartbroken corseted love with it all.
I love this. So much.
WTF! I couldn’t stop looking for lipstick smudges on one of those dresses…..
Yes. Only one aspect of how much must have gone into the changes behind the scenes for this show.
I LOVE the last dress!!!!!! I think that it could even be edited the SLIGHTEST bit and worn on the RC.
Bat. Shit. Crazy. And I fucking love it.
I really love a lot of the clothing… but the deeply unsettling styling is sure to haunt my dreams!
I had to cover my eyes the make up is way too off putting to pay attention to anything else, a phantasma of heath ledger in his last role.
Great styling but I can’t see how any of this can translate into wearable, saleable clothes. That said, I’m sure Helena Bonham Carter would write a cheque for the entire collection without leaving her seat.
Every single one screams either SWINTON or HBC! And very few that are not clearly one or the other. I would never have imagined that it would be Thom Brown who could make a coherent collection out of the intersection between HBC and the SWINTON.
Serving up Miss Havisham realness. Actually, kinda love it.
Miss Havisham was my first thought, too.
Very creative and disturbing. Love it and am also gonn have nightmares.
this is weird and it channels Lady Gaga but in those her years. 3 years back? To be honest, this collection is why different from the other designers. I still remember there is one designer took the inspiration from the nurse attire and this one here, obviously, took the inspiration from the nurse attires too and Thom put a little twist on every pieces. Love it. Amazing!
So, my husband and I are big fans of Samurai movies – something I always think when I see Samurai hairstyles is that it is a hilarious old guy joke on young guys. I mean, how great is it for men with receding hairlines to convince every man, young or old, to wear their hair with an exaggerated receding hairline! So – in that spirit – PLEASE let that silhouette featured in the first photographs catch on!!!!! Talk about leveling the playing field.
This is an utterly amazing collection of clothes.
Havisham-ing it up.
Most, with a few exceptions, of these looks were harsh and ugly. They might pass as a twisted representation of insanity, but who would wear this shit. Sell these looks in Europe, where dark and crazy is respected. We in the US are in the market for brighter inspiration.
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