Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 Collection

Posted on September 15, 2013

No one seems to quite know what to make of Marc Jacobs’s SS14 runway show, seeing as it was dolled up like a trashed beach, full of cigarette butts and ripped fashion mags, among other detritus. And even when asked about it, Jacobs couldn’t quite explain the collection, except as having a Victorian-meets-Gotham-City vibe to it and having a stated desire to break free from the cliches of telling women what to wear during spring and summer. It, frankly, all seems a little muddled and more than a little like a reaction to something rather than a thing itself, if that makes any sense. Still, you can’t fault him for his designs, even if the presentation or explanation is a bit of a head-scratcher. The pieces are interesting on an individual basis, but you’d have to be fairly adventurous to want to wear some of those exaggerated Victorian jackets. If nothing else, he always gives you clothes worth looking at and talking about.

 

 

 

 

 

[Photo Credit: IMAXtree]

    • http://dontmakeitlikeimdumb.blogspot.com/ annabelle archer

      He didn’t get me until the gowns. Those last seven or eight pulled me in.

      • queeniethebold

        Me, too! (And Helena Bonham Carter comes to mind.)

        • anthonybrown0917

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        • Akmall Razlan

          me too!

        • lilazander

          HBC, brilliant!

    • http://joyouslifesf.wordpress.com Kiltdntiltd

      He is an undeniably brilliant man. How he manages to do both the collections for LV, AND his own line in the states still leaves me stunned. Paired together a lot of this just looks crazy, and not in a good way. But pulled away from each other most of this is wearable. And a lot of it is gorgeous. The over-scaled jackets are screaming “Tilda!” at me really hard.

      • StellaZafella

        I’m seeing the bottom halves of most of this as afterthoughts…but the tops could crank up the style on anything classic from the LBD to plain black slacks. That said: Victorian Sweatshirts…???

        • http://joyouslifesf.wordpress.com Kiltdntiltd

          I can see a bunch of crafty folk yanking out the glue gun after running to the local fabric store and dumping tons of upholstery trims onto their favorite hoodie. wait for it.

          • StellaZafella

            You said “crafty folk” (snork!, snicker…)
            I call a queen a queen…and I can picture at least half a dozen saying to themselves “Hmmm, I’m one trip to JCPenney activewear and $50.00 worth of drapery trimmings away from a quasi- genuine Marc Jacobs original!”-
            -but first they’ll all have to get rid of those bedazzled kitten sweatshirts.

          • Sarah

            I am not thinking about sweatshirts, but DAMN if I don’t want a pair of those shorts. I will be embellishing some bermudas forthwith, mark my crafty words.

          • decormaven

            Yes sir, the notions counter will see heavy action from this.

      • sleepycat

        What about Marc for Marc Jacobs? Granted that one might be ghost designed. I wonder if the stuff that goes into the stores, for certain brands like this one and especially McQueen, is ghost designed too. Frankly, I am curious to how much the high end designer/creative directors have control over the stuff in the stores.

        • demidaemon

          I don’t think they are ghost designed as much as toned down to meet production costs and make lots of profit. The designers probably have a great deal of input, I’m sure.

    • MoHub

      Are those the wigs Jeffrey Sebelia had to give up in his PR season 3 finale show?

    • Fordzo

      Is that a Coca Cola ad on the front of that red sweatshirt?

      • quiltrx

        LOL I thought “well, I hope he got permission for that.”
        I wonder if any other 40ish Kittens remember the Coca-Cola rugby-style shirts? I had a couple in high school.

        • Jane

          I was thinking the same thing! It was so random to see that sweatshirt with the coca cola logo on it.

    • Lori

      Those embellished sweaters are a little too close to the things my older neighbors here in flyover country get mocked for wearing. Just sayin’.

      • MRC210

        I hear you. Those sweaters with the black appliques? From the wardrobe of Blanche Devereaux.

    • laddie103

      Agree about the gowns. On the red carpet someone would really stand out.

    • AmeliaEve

      It’s so hard for me to edit out the weird shoes in my mind so I can really see the clothing. Those soutache-embellished gowns with the Teva sandals make me think “Miss Havisham goes hiking.”

      • lilazander

        I agree with you about the shoes. To me all of them a quite horrid, esp. the sandals and the taller boots.

    • Jacquelyn

      Didn’t like any of it, sad to say. Really hate the shoes he paired with the last few gowns.

    • calimon

      Spring? how is this Spring??
      Either way, it’s mostly a lot of hid

      • tereliz

        From a marketing standpoint, those jackets will be hitting the stores in January/February, so while it may not read “Spring/Summer”, it doesn’t completely have to. Kors and a lot of other designers sent coats down the catwalks this season. Smart thinking. I mean, who isn’t completely sick of their winter coat halfway through winter?

        • demidaemon

          True. I think Kors might be better at fabric choice, though; his coats will clearly get you through the cool and warm parts of spring. MJ’s seem a little bit heavy for the late spring months; they would be fine for Jan-Mar. It depends a great deal on the weather, though.

        • calimon

          Spring wear…like in Canada??

    • quiltrx

      The jackets are really breathtaking! With a little toning down on some of them, they’d actually be pretty wearable and chic (though they don’t actually scream ‘Spring’ to me–which I guess was his point, but may not be much of a marketing strategy.)
      From the dress with the huge tassel through the end, there is just so much fabulousness. Looking forward to seeing some ladies take a risk with these on the RC.

    • ccinnc

      Baroque draperies, ugly ass shoes, and after a while all I could see were the blonde heads. Dislike.

      • lexilexi

        And the faces…. I couldn’t stop looking at the models’ faces… other-worldly, they.

        • demidaemon

          If you mean “angry extraterrestrials who were forced into hideous clothes,” then yes.

    • oyeyemi808

      So is he showing women what NOT to wear for spring/ summer 2014!!??

      • sagecreek

        Yep. That’s why those gals all look so pissed.

    • Imasewsure

      Love all of the shorts and most of the gowns. The jackets are really cool but probably not workable. Hope some of the more adventurous rock them though. Would nice to see them in real life and on the RC

    • Elrathia

      They’re fabulous mudlarks.

    • MilaXX

      It’s interesting alright. The only way I can see the jackets working is ironically paired with jeans. The gowns and tops are all lovely, and I’m sure there is a lot that can be picked out and worn in better ways. Looking at it as presented here, it’s just too much jumbly stuff going on at once.

    • Introspective

      love the gowns, the jackets get a pass, meh to the rest. abhor the styling.

    • Jumpingjacks

      While visually interesting it’s more costume than fashion for me…

    • susan6

      A few nice gowns toward the end, a whole lotta fugly try-too-hard, and one easy lawsuit for Coca-Cola.

    • ballerinawithagun

      This is definitely Carol Burnett doing Scarlet Gone With the Wind. Those jackets have all the Scalamandre leftovers from my bottom drawer thrown on them. I do like the return of a slight shoulder pads, this is way too much when the shoulders start falling off of your shoulders. Then the holiday decorated sweatshirts and the Tevas…I’ve just figured out that Marc has pulled a Miley. We’re going to be talking about this mess for a long time and he will have toned it down for retail but the buzz will have seduced everyone!

    • GorgeousThings

      I guess putting the models in birkenstock sandals changes it from a fall/winter collection to a spring/summer collection.

    • hughman

      The thing that bugged me most were the tennis shoes.

      And if you’re a “name” designer going to present such a whack-a-do collection, you better be crystal clear on your thought process and reasons. You better have written the goddamn Gettysburg Address explaining wtf you’re showing and how it relates. Otherwise your herpy-derp response just comes off as “I have no idea what I’m doing”.

      • demidaemon

        “Herpy-derp.” What an apt description for this collection.

    • CommentsByKatie

      I kind of love it…I always love a Victorian vibe and honestly I think he’s making a wink or a reference to ‘couch for clothes’ criticisms. Those tassel trims are pretty much ONLY used on elaborate brocade throw pillows, and there are so many old brocade prints. I love that ‘couch’ can be used as inspiration, when it is so often used as an insult. I’m not sure he achieved everything he could have with this collection, but I hope some of the ideas catch on and evolve into something beautiful.

    • marlie

      Some of the dresses and gowns are very pretty, but a lot of the jacket border on costume. The sweatshirt with the swoopy thing on it is the biggest needle-scratch in the while collection, and I’m also really not a fan of the styling.

      • StellaZafella

        Some of this reads to me like Etsy at the Laundromat.

    • Slade Thunderdragon

      Sky Ferreira <3

    • http://armchairauthor.wordpress.com/ LesYeuxHiboux

      He always get me with the shorts. I’d wear’em. Several of the jackets, too, and I can see other jackets that would be wearable for a different figure/coloring than my own. The gowns at the end are no-caveats gorgeous, I’d love to see Florence Welch in the red-orange one. I don’t think Victorian Hobo was the vibe to go with on this one, but there is plenty to like if you can mentally unstyle them.

    • R. L.

      I would die from heat exhaustion wearing these clothes and I live in the NW.

      • IMNAngryLiberal

        Same here — and when someone whose “Spring” look is black in slightly lighter fabrics and/or fewer layers tells you the clothes look too warm for spring, you should listen.

    • Slanted & Enchanted

      I’m excited for celebrities to try to wear these. The styling here is aggressively ugly and I’d love to see how/if the pieces look different when styled for someone whose job description literally requires them to be professionally good-looking.

    • http://twitter.com/#!/Space_Kitty Space Kitty

      I got too fixated on the wigs (please tell me those are wigs) and shoes to appreciate what he’s doing here. It certainly is a conversation-starter of a collection, but I’m thinking I’m out of my depth here.

      • demidaemon

        I assume they are wigs. If the models were forced into using their own hair for this hairstyle, I definitely feel for them. I hope they are wigs, though.

        • DuBey2

          I had the exact same haircut (see look #3) when I was 7. I did it myself in the bathtub (don’t ask me why bathing made me suddenly think of cutting my hair) with a pair of dull scissors. Perhaps they were from my school pencil box. I seem to remember stuffing the hair that was cut off into the pencil box & trying to close it. However, my subterfuge failed. My mother was not amused.

    • save_the_hobbit

      Some of those shoes…..ugh.

    • ringthing

      So sue me, I love the shoes. Let women walk.

    • Kimberlini

      Spring/Summer….at the North Pole?

    • KaytJ

      Well at least if you we’re walking alone in the dark down a cigarette-littered alleyway, with these clothes, people would leave you alone. Can’t say it was boring though.

      • JDreesen

        they’d probably be able to smell your stress sweat from a mile away (according to my television, it smells worse than regular sweat).

    • Jangle57

      My first thought was Heidi and the Alps, then curtain fringe? – cue laughter at the shorts – some of the dresses are pretty but overall I thought way too costumey and what was he smoking when he designed this collection?

    • LaSylphide

      There’s not a single outfit here that I ever need to see again.

    • neeBarbero

      Love the tops/jackets, and look forward to seeing them toned down so they look like they fit and the people wearing them aren’t in “Daddy’s” clothes. I want to see this reworked for real people to wear, as a lot of it seems to have a lot of potential. I SO want a Victorian sweatshirt!!

    • Josefina Madariaga Suárez

      The shoes make me weep, but I live for the gowns.

    • poggi

      I like the leaf print itself, particularly the cream with red or with the dark blue. Similarly I like the lace floral pattern on the last few gowns. I don’t really like the pieces themselves but I like some of the patterned textiles.

    • JDreesen

      yes, nothing says “Free to be Me” quite like sporting full-coverage embroidered wool in April.

      good looking out, Mr. Jacobs.

      • ankali

        SF doesn’t have conventional seasons either, but I hear April’s always a good bet for a spring month. :)

        • JDreesen

          dammit – i had April and then i switched it! bah.

    • formerlyAnon

      I like this way more than I ever like Zac Posen. I like the jacket-like tops. (not so much the sweatshirts) I like some of the dresses and gowns – the ones that look most as if they were influenced by 19th century gowns.

      • demidaemon

        Ti me, they both overdesign, just in different ways. I do agree that I think—with some heavy editing–there is more to take away from this collection. Of course, that’s easier to do when the majority of the collection is made of separates rather than dresses.

    • sagecreek

      That’s a whole bunch of angry models.

    • spooki C

      A lot of beautiful details, but it’s lost in a sea of ugly crap. A better eye for editing could’ve saved this collection.

    • Cate

      Hmm. I don’t love it, but I definitely like it! Hope to see some of the gowns on the red carpet come Awards Season.

    • boweryboy

      He’s a brilliant designer, but I don’t get it.

    • conniemd

      Some really interesting looks, but the juxtaposition of gowns with butt-ugly casual sandals and sneakers made it really hard o appreciate collection because it made it all too jarring.

    • AnneElliot

      To paraphrase Tim Gunn, my viscera is telling me this is all nonsense. (Did anyone see him on Jimmy Kimmel last week? Adorable!)

      • demidaemon

        No, but I saw him on Chelsea Lately, where he was equally adorable. And I learned something from the interview as well!

    • http://inappropriatejobpostings.blogspot.com/ fuflans

      this makes me think of ‘oliver’ CA 1968.

    • Trickytrisha

      I’m trying to figure out who’d wear those jackets. Gay bodybuilders? 18th Century soldiers with hormonal problems? Or, of course, Gaga. I dunno, other than a few gowns this whole shebang is bewildering and giving me a tummy ache.

    • sleepycat

      as someone that likes Victorian clothing and design (more is more) I like this collection I love the first navy, burgundy, and black outfit.

    • Pterodactyl111

      Derelicte.

    • http://twitter.com/aynaborrell Anastasia

      All of the models look so short!

    • ankali

      For some reason, I have a gut feeling that one of those sequined gowns is going to be 2014’s editorial whore dress that no one really makes work, á la the white Dolce & Gabbana ice skater dress in 2011, and this year’s Gucci peacock dress. My money’s on the sheer dress with the black and plum sequined — flowers? fleurs de lys? leaves? — or the less sheer/more sequined one right before it.

    • Derek_anny

      I like it. It’s like he saw Kambriel and decided to go with the same source as the Gothics (and steampunks), and a sort of LesMis feel.

    • Lily-Rygh

      The footwear used in this presentation could hardly be less appealing. VERY disappointing.

    • Dawn Sinclair

      why did he cut up his curtains?

    • Akmall Razlan

      Marc Jacobs this time not targeting the normal customers but he targeting for daring new customers, yup, I think so, this collection is too gothic for the mainstream but a few gothic chics could pull this off easily. but, he did great. amazing.

      • demidaemon

        I think the only problem is that most of his assumed audience won’t have the disposable income to afford a single piece.

        • Akmall Razlan

          Well, I do not know about that but it is actually about self pleasure. If you have the money then buy it.. but if you dont, well, if you want to wear it, you would better try looking for better income.

    • Erica_Vuitton

      While there are a few beautifully made dresses towards the end and some interesting new shapes I can’t get over the set. Hurricane ravaged beaches (his inspiration for the runway design) are not glamerous or chic. Sand trucked in from the Gulf… doesn’t he realize how many people DIED during Katrina and Sandy? How many people lost everything they own, homes, businesses, property… honestly I’m disgusted by his lack of tact and respect.

      • demidaemon

        Not surprised, sadly. MJ is a bit of an attention whore in his own right. Seems to gel with that state of mind, unfortunately.

    • alyce1213

      Ye Olde Costume Shoppe.

    • Sara Brams-Miller

      I haven’t hated a Marc Jacobs collection….ever. Until now, that is.

    • MaggieMae

      Spring? Nope.

    • joything

      Numbers 12-15 – starting with the deep teal suit — look plausible, and a couple of dresses right after that. The rest … well, the overdone Victorian jackets could carry a look that was all-black tank top and pants, but whoa nelly.

      The Victorian/surf pants are interesting, but again they have to be the focus of the look. Plain white or black shirt.

    • prettybigkitty

      Nope.

    • buttercup

      It’s kind of like “Civil War meets Billabong”, I think I like it!

      Maybe he watched Lincoln and Blue Crush back-to-back one night.

    • gurl boy

      Nothing says Spring like heavy Tyrolian Felt with tons of braid and ric rac all over it! WTF!

    • kategs

      Spring in post-apocalyptic Siberia maybe…that said there are many items I’d love to wear in this collection.

    • lalahartma

      I rather like this.

    • mhleta

      These are exhausting! There’s so much going on. I need a nap after this.

    • valerie747

      Thanks! Now I know what to wear to the upcoming post-apocalypic party/

    • kimmeister

      The presentation of this collections serves as a reminder to me about why I don’t wear flats. If even runway models look stumpy in them, I have no chance.

    • Shawn EH

      No to everything except the lace gowns at the end, and maybe the Cola Swirl sweater.

    • Suse

      I’m sure we’ll be seeing Helena B-C in some of these pieces.

    • GillianHolroyd

      Reaching for the mind bleach…

    • oohsparkley!

      They should force all models to wear flat shoes. Literally brings them down to earth and makes them look like normal women. It isn’t flattering but I did enjoy seeing the models look so squat.

    • HM3

      Interesting choice of wigs, for EVERY model. Not a fan of the matador look.

    • demidaemon

      Kudos on the risk taking, I guess. It certainly is “different.” However, I despise the styling, I hate the first 3 or 4 looks with a passion, and his color pallette was mostly drab, borderline hideous. The gowns are the best part of the collection by far, and I almost universally love them (except for the sheerness; God, can’t it die!). The shoes, however, nearly ruin everything.

    • bertkeeter

      MJ put the pipe down… U crazy!

    • uprightcitizen

      One of the things that makes these look so different is that they’re presented with models that appear to be average height to begin with, plus they’re wearing heavy, flat shoes. That’s such a jarring contrast to everything else on the runway that it looks like clothing from another planet. All the Tyrolean, VonTrapp boy influences are cool, but then all of a sudden they were combined with a couple of kimonos and I got confused. I do agree the gowns, when re-styled for an A-list red carpet, will be sensational. With these “Children of the Corn” haircuts, they don’t look as glamorous as they are.

    • purpleprose78

      I live in the south. Looking at those jackets and that thick material makes me perspire. Nothing at all about this is springy unless you’re spending the spring in the southern hemisphere.

    • fursa_saida

      I LOVE THIS. UNRESERVEDLY. I want a feature film with possible franchise options set in the steampunk pirate urban dystopia where people dress like this.

    • willworktomorrow

      Those models are terrifying. They’re a cross between urban street punks and children of the corn. Either way, run!

    • calimon

      A great collection for the upcoming Ugly Christmas Sweater parties!

    • GreenTurtle

      Interesting collection, but I can’t do board shorts. Also not into the fabric choice, which soured some of the pieces I otherwise might’ve liked.

    • http://kingderella.tumblr.com/ kingderella

      i dont love most of it as shown here, but there are so many great individual pieces, my inner pretend-stylist is going crazy!

    • jmorino08

      Those wigs and shoes are distractingly attrocious! Also, looks like he was channeling Vanessa Huxtable in a few of those looks!

    • Katie

      He has invented Mod steampunk.

    • Suse

      The wigs look like my attempt to cut my own hair when I was 10.