Mad Style: Commissions and Fees

Posted on June 06, 2012

We always have two reactions to every episode of Mad Men. There’s the reaction to the story and characters, and then there’s the reaction to the costuming. When this episode ended, Tom turned to Lorenzo and said, “Dammit. It’s almost all men in suits this week.” Janie Bryant clearly has the most fun when she’s dressing adult female characters like Joan, Peggy, Betty and Megan. There’s only so much you can do with a bunch of guys in business suits. We found ourselves longing for a Betty Weight Watchers meeting just to see some color. But then again, the darkness and relative lack of color in this episode served the story well.

It’s amazing how unglamorous Betty’s become. Granted, it’s a little tough to look glamorous in ski-wear, but the Betty of Ossining would have managed it. We imagine that’s due to a lot of factors: weight gain, possible depression, and living in a mausoleum of a house, which doesn’t require her to look ad-perfect the way her lifestyle with Don did.

Blue is a fairly common Betty color. In fact, it’s as much “her” color as yellow is Peggy’s and purple is Joan’s. At one time, it signaled her lousy marriage, but now we tend to think of it more in “Madonna and child” terms. There’s a maternal element at work here.

Like so. Very Madonna and Child. Very much a focal point in the scenes, providing an expanse of unbroken blue against a cacophony of patterns and colors.

But Sally didn’t want to be part of this tableau; not at first.

She wanted to spend time with her best pal Megan. See the greens in their outfits having a conversation with each other? See how the autumnal colors of Sally’s outfit make it seem like she fits right in here?

But look what happens when she makes her first attempt at impressing a boy. She mimics her mother and her step-mother. From the neck up, that’s pure Betty Francis, but those boots are pure Megan Draper all the way. It’s cute because the boots really don’t go with the outfit at all. She was just dying for a chance to wear them after Don told her she wasn’t allowed to when Megan first bought them for her. It’s notable that the argument with her mother that sent her running to Megan had to do with her older step-sister’s hand-me-down boots and how she didn’t want to wear them. Sally had one pair of boots in mind for this weekend and they sure as hell weren’t hand-me-downs.

Scarlet now fills the Joan role in more ways than one. Not only is she the secretary for the partner’s meetings, sitting in Joan’s old seat, but like her predecessor, she serves to be the focal point of color in the scene. How many times have we seen this exact scene with Joan standing out from every man in the room because she was in a bright color? Scarlet’s hair do, brooch, and button earrings all call back to Joan, reminding us of the connection. What’s notable here is that Joan’s in a navy blue with a detail at the neckline; a way of subtly mimicking menswear without looking like menswear.

And the colors of her dress are picked up by the colors in Lane’s tie. We’ve never seen this dress before. With all the talk of going on vacation in this scene, it’s clear that Joan’s feeling pretty good about her money situation. This is almost certainly a new dress. And while it looks fairly workman-like (i.e., not necessarily expensive), it’s notable how sort of flirty and feminine it is, despite the menswear allusions. The neckline is fairly low for Joan’s office wear and the bows at the sleeves and neckline are uncharacteristically fussy for her. Joan didn’t get to be partner by trying to act like a man and she’s not going to act like one now. Her femininity is still of the utmost importance to her, even if it means she gets subjected to lascivious comments about bikinis.

And what’s on her dress? Gold roses. The rose motif has been working overtime to let us know what’s going on in Joan’s life and in Joan’s head. She went from lush red roses when her marriage was doing okay, to withering red roses when it was in trouble, to brown, dead roses when it ended, and now that she’s making serious money, her roses have turned to gold. This dress, which looks quite expensive, served a second purpose later in the episode.

Scarlet is, of course, dressed in scarlet.

Maybe we’re reading too much into it, but Rebecca’s outfit looked a little tatty to us; like it had seen better days. It’s definitely not new, and it’s not likely that she’s been allowed to spend much money on clothes. In the context of Lane’s state of mind the deep red is ominous, evoking danger and blood.

As wonderful as Jared Harris’ performance was this episode, it was this scene we found almost unbearable to watch. Not just because of his anguish, but because she is trying SO HARD to be happy. There’s a desperation there; as if she herself is about to burst into tears at any moment.

Yet another instance of a wife tied to her home through the use of color. She matches the couch AND the walls. She’s gone from being an ominous figure in red, bringing danger, to a ghost hovering in Lane’s background; something to be placated while he gets on with the business of killing himself.

And how very Lane Pryce to get up in the middle of the night and get fully dressed in order to kill himself. Lane lived in his three-piece suit and by God, he was going to die in one. How heartbreaking it was to see him snap his glasses in two. A perfect instance of the costume coming into the script and being utilized in order to signify a character’s mindset. You don’t get much more final than that.

It struck us how much black was in this scene. The three partners on the right are all in black ties, black overcoats, and in Roger and Pete’s case, black suits. Even Joan, who normally serves as the bright pop of color in any partner scene, is wearing an uncharacteristic black dress (she’s only worn one or two in the office before). Usually, in order to break up the monotony, Janie Bryant will have Pete in a blue suit or she’ll give the men pops of color in their ties. With this scene, it’s almost uniformly gray and black; perfectly funereal.

And finally…

Megan got herself a new – and much more memorable – audition outfit. Obviously, her beige lucky audition dress was no longer lucky for her and she opted for the kind of outfit that stands out more. We wonder if this mentioned-in-passing audition will finally be the one that lands her a part. Stay tuned.

 

[Screencaps: tomandlorenzo.com]

    • http://theargiehome.blogspot.com/ Gus Casals

      When I first looked at the Sally dress up, I immediately went “Megan!”, but you are right that her head is all Betty.
      Awesome as usual, guys. 

      • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

        Sally’s hair also reminded me of Nancy Drew (the 60s versions that we know Sally reads, or did read a year or two before). I only questioned it because it looked like a real ‘do and I’m not sure that a 12-year-old would be that skilled with the hot rollers (I certainly wasn’t).

        • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_YAMNQMUGFM4NNSPAQLZRODSD5I Angela

           My big sister set hers with Dippity-Do and orange juice cans…no heat involved.

          • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_VZLU6YVO4BRTELTTH3GRAAMWZQ Dot

            I just have to say…that’s kind of awesome!

            • http://goo.gl/5bqhn Maryellen J. Phillips

              the detail a callback to that sweet cutout on the top...DemoforFrank.blogspot.com

          • Sweetbetty

             You couldn’t get Sally’s flip with OJ cans.  Girls did that who wore their hair long and straight and smooth with just a hint of lift at the roots and curve at the ends.  It was the equivalent of a flattening iron today; or using a clothes iron to iron your hair smooth, which I also did back then.  I was wondering if Sally used Megan’s hot rollers or curling iron and how Megan will react when she discovers that she did.

            • http://www.facebook.com/people/Sally-Barry/100000202371996 Sally Barry

              I yearned yearned yearned for the Jane Asher/Patty Boyd ‘bump’ on the top of my head and spent countless hours teasing my hair – they probably had ‘hair rats’ or hairpieces!  Later, spent countless hours trying for the Julie Christie smooth bob, all turned under, but it kept flipping UP! Most of the time I had long straight hair parted in the middle and set the ends with pink foam rubber curlers (couldn’t bear rollers in my hair) to give it some curl, but never got the nice smooth turned-under look, it just came out as sort of ringlets.

            • baroquediva

              Me too!!!! I wanted to look like Patty Boyd.  I would work and work and work to get that flip with the little teased bump on top.  I also used the foam rubber curlers all the way through college until I finally cut my long straight hair.  My former 14 year old self loves Megan’s clothes.  Did anyone notice Megan’s black and white shoes. 

            • Liverpoolgirl

              My friend had the most beautiful curly blond hair that she would put on the ironing board and press out the curls with an iron.  She would end up with straight hair except for the inch closest to her part. These hair stories make me smile.

            • CozyCat

              I wouldn’t be surprised if Meghan and Sally have been doing “beauty routines.”  It’s a very “big sister” thing to do.

            • http://twitter.com/maschultz Margaret Schultz

              Yes. I remember the OJ cans period. It did not produce a flip, or big curls. It was a subtle wave, more like a flatiron today.

              And dippity-do, wowza. That stuff could hold a curl for DAYS.

            • http://twitter.com/maschultz Margaret Schultz

              Yes. I remember the OJ cans period. It did not produce a flip, or big curls. It was a subtle wave, more like a flatiron today.

              And dippity-do, wowza. That stuff could hold a curl for DAYS.

          • makeityourself

            I loved watching the teenage girls sitting by the pool winding their long hair up on orange juice cans with silver clips.  Then they would sit there, as if it’s perfectly normal to wear a helmet of orange juice cans, smoke cigarettes and flirt with the boys.

          • CrazyAuntie

            Been there!  Dippity Do…ahh, memories…

        • Spicytomato1

          I used to stare, mesmerized, at Nancy Drew’s hair on the book covers and illustrations. By the time I was reading them, early 70s, that hairstyle was not in vogue. But the way it was rolled and flipped — plus the unusual color — was endlessly fascinating to me.

        • tofupuppy

          I thought so too at first but her hair had “fallen” in the next scene with Glen at the Museum of Natural History. Then it made more sense — a 12-year-old attempting at playing grown-up and almost-but-not-quite succeeding.

      • http://twitter.com/dollsaga Helen

        Magen did the hair-do for her.

        • http://www.tomandlorenzo.com/ Tom and Lorenzo

          No she didn’t. Megan left for her audition when Sally was still in her pajamas.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1462762652 Tara Benchina Calise

      Question – is Megan’s green sweater the same one that she wears each week? Or, does she have multiple sweaters that all look the same? I love her new audition dress.

      • Sweetbetty

         I wondered about that green sweater too.  Even if she’s cut back on her clothes shopping she surely had casual, at-home clothes in her wardrobe before she quit working but we’ve seen her in that green sweater week after week.

        • sweetlilvoice

          She looks really good in green, maybe it’s really cold in that apartment and she wears the sweater to keep warm. Or maybe it’s a grown up version of a sweatshirt for her….I have a hoodie I’ve worn all over the world but I never wear it out of the house anymore. I did wear it this morning when it was cold after I got up and brought in the recycling containers.

          • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

            I was wondering that too – it looks like the same sweater to me. It might be that she’s spending her clothes budget on ‘work clothes’ and ‘going out clothes’ so she doesn’t invest much in ‘sitting around the house clothes.’ i can relate – i have no hesitation about spending money on quality career clothes, for example, but have never understood the concept of expensive track suits.

        • http://www.deborahwiles.com/ GoodSally

           So isn’t it interesting in retrospect to see Megan change into a much nicer top in the episode where Betty comes to get the kids and sees Megan dressing? I think now Megan heard Sally yell for Bobby and Gene to get ready, Mom’s here, and she (Megan) rushed to change into something tres stylish. She had no idea Betty would walk through the apartment…

          • Sweetbetty

             I had wondered why Megan was changing her top, rather hurriedly it seemed, at that point in the day.  It does make sense that she wanted to “impress” Betty.

      • janetjb

        Maybe it’s her ‘waiting for Don’ sweater.

        I’m sure she’ll get more call backs wearing her new black audition dress instead of that old beige dress.

      • MissKimP

        Seeing Megan in the same green sweater, week after week, reminds us, I think, that her life is the same, week after week, waiting for something to pan out with the auditions.

        • Jennifer Coleman

          Also, that sweater & cropped pants is a generational shift from Betty and Trudy in their house dresses & robes. Clearly, she’s not doing much housework and is working by reading/memorizing scripts for auditions.She seems to cook regularly as opposed to doing a lot of takeout, but really has an unidentifiable life rhythm, not quite domestic, a little urban but not a hustling actress.

          • Susan Crawford

            If Don keeps going after the big accounts, he IS going to start making more demands on Megan’s time: dinners out with important clients, parties, events and so on. I wonder how much strain this will put on Megan, who seems to be enjoying her new routine as aspiring actress/hip housewife?

            • Sweetbetty

               As long as she remains an “aspiring” actress things should be fine (I assume most auditions are held during the daytime work hours).  If she ever gets hired, even if she doesn’t have to leave the city, she’ll still be busy in the evenings and that’s when things will get tense in the Draper apartment.

    • Robyn Morelli

      I feel like Megan is becoming even more tangential in this show than Betty. She’s no longer related to the office and we hardly see her interacting much with Don. It’s like she’s drifting away. And yet her audition dress is black. Somehow she’s tied to the Lane storyline more than Sally’s. Usually she’s falling all over herself to dote on Sally (buying her clothes, making her a special dinner), but in this much more maternal storyline she’s keeping her distance.

      • Sweetbetty

         I think it’s because she wants to play mommy/friend on her schedule.  Sally showing up on her doorstop and interrupting her “busy” day threw her off her game.  She wasn’t nasty to Sally but it was obvious she wasn’t in her every-other-weekend maternal mode.

        • Le_Sigh

           Yes – ^this. 

        • Lilithcat

           Sally showing up on her doorstop and interrupting her “busy” day threw her off her game.

          She wasn’t pissed that Sally showed up on her doorstep.  She was pissed, and rightfully, that she did so unannounced.  And her anger was not at Sally, but at Don, for not telling her.  

          • Sweetbetty

            Absolutely; never meant to imply otherwise.

          • MilaXX

             I agree but I don’t think she was pissed, just that it wasn’t scheduled and she had things to do. If this audition warranted a new dress it must have been fairly important.

          • CozyCat

            Agreed.  It seems that one of the things Meghan really hates is when Don takes her for granted and assumes that she can drop everything without any warning.  The HoJo fight was really about his assumption that she could just leave the office when he decided.  She was furious that he played hooky with Joan and didn’t even tell her he would be late.

            It was noteworthy that when he explained why he had forgotten to tell her about Sally, and that it was something as unsettling as firing someone, her mood completely changed.  It’s thoughtlessness that angers her, not inconvenience. 

            In that respect she’s already a different “generation” from Betty’s, which gave the man of the house much more freedom to come and go as they please–Meghan would totally divorce him for the “not picking up the birthday cake” stunt from season 1!

        • LesYeuxHiboux

           She didn’t have time to get into character.

    • geans

      Megan’s new audition dress reminded me of a daytime version of the “girls night out” dress she wore in the season 4 finale…the detail a callback to that sweet cutout on the top.  

      • susu11

        Good point! And that finale episode is where she really wins Don’s heart, so maybe the similar cut black dress is a sign that she’ll win this audition?

      • http://profiles.google.com/sara.e.munoz Sara Munoz

        I don’t remember that. I love looking this stuff up!

    • http://twitter.com/woundedidealist woundedidealist

      Brilliant, as always TLo, but here’s my question… do you think Sally has two pairs of the same slippers (one for Rye and one for the city) because she’s wearing the exact same ones in the Draper household and then later in bed with Betty and, as far as I can tell, she didn’t bring her suitcase home with her.  As a child of divorce, I can say that I definitely didn’t have tow of everything at both my parents houses and I spent a lot more time at my dad’s then Sally does.  Just curious as to what everyone thinks…

      • Sweetbetty

         I was wondering about the white boots.  Did she leave them at Don’s place, knowing Betty would never let her wear them?  Her small suitcase didn’t seem big enough to hold them and clothes for a weekend.  Then again, she was wearing the same dress on Monday for her meet-up with Glen as she had on when she showed up on Friday so maybe she decided packing the boots was more important than having several changes of clothing.

        • Sobaika

          Are they the boots from her space-age outfit, when Don told her to go change and take off the makeup? From the Codfish Ball. Anyone know?

          ETA: Went back to check and it’s hard to tell if they’re the same pair, but they are definitely very similar. She probably left them at Don’s since there’s no way Betty was gonna let those boots happen.

          • Lisa_Cop

            Virtually certain those are the same boots.

        • jenno1013

          I’m guessing she has a robe and slippers and toiletries at each house, so not two of everything, but the daily things yes.  And I agree she left the white boots at Don’s because they’re in the Megan part of her life, not the Betty part.

        • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

          It seems likely that she’d keep the boots in NYC since she bought them there and, as Sweetbetty notes, Betty would never let her wear them. She might have put the slippers in the little suitcase.

        • http://ohquidnunc.wordpress.com/ QtheQuidnunc

          She’s definitely wearing them in the scene with Betty. You can see the tops of them. She most likely intended to leave them at Don’s but she went straight from the museum to Betty and Henry’s. 

          She can kiss those boots goodbye now. I can’t wait for the phone call where Betty calls to berate Don and his child bride for allowing Sally to dress like a floozy. 

        • http://profiles.google.com/dorothymichael Dorothy & Michael n/a

          Sally had the boots on to go to the American Cancer fancy dinner a few months ago but Don forbade her wearing them that night. It would make sense that the boots stayed in the city at Don and Megan’s place.  Ditto on the slippers – the family is certainly able to afford to have duplicates of specific things at either home.

          • Sweetbetty

             But it is of note that she’d have the exact same slippers at each place unless she really, really loved that style and color.

            • http://profiles.google.com/sara.e.munoz Sara Munoz

              All I can guess is they were purchased at the same time. Maybe a Christmas gift in duplicate? 
              It makes me think of this cartoon divorce special that aired in the early-mid 80’s. They make a point of showing that the girl has identical pajamas at mom’s and at dad’s.

        • LuluinLaLa

          I assumed the boots stayed in the city. Actually, I assumed Don would have made Megan return them to the store, so I was surprised to see them at all, but that would make even more sense – like Megan never got around to doing so so they were still in the apartment. Also, Sally didn’t know she’d be alone Monday morning/be able to see Glen until she was already at her dads, so I imagine she was down an outfit, had to re-wear the dress, and paired it with the boots to feel grown-up. She had probably packed a different outfit for school that she would have deemed too dowdy for a date. :)

          • Sweetbetty

             ” Also, Sally didn’t know she’d be alone Monday morning”

            Excellent point and one that explains a lot about Sally’s “date” look.  She probably used Megan’s make-up too, something Megan is probably not going to appreciate.  I don’t know if Sally has a hidden stash of her own make-up back home but it wouldn’t have occurred to her to bring it along since she didn’t know she’d be alone Monday morning.

            • LesYeuxHiboux

               If she’s anything like my twelve-year-old niece (and let’s be honest, me at twelve), she doesn’t go anywhere without her makeup, regardless of occasion.

      • LuluinLaLa

        It may have been a rare costuming mistake, but I am also a child of divorced parents, and there were some things that I had duplicates of at both houses, usually because both parents knew I liked something and, without talking to each other, would get for me. Also, while I would pack day clothes for a weekend at my dad’s, I always kept a pair or two of pajamas there, so it’s possible they bought her another pair of slippers to keep in the city.

      • M N

         Yes, you’re very observant, woundedidealist!  They are the same slippers, and looks like the same pj’s, too.  Slip up in the  wardrobe department!  Sally’s suitcase was still in her dad’s and Megan’s apartment. I find it odd that Megan did not want to ride along with Don when he drove Glen back to school, knowing she wants more time with him.  Don certainly got into the old role of transference of feelings to defray his own, by asking Glen what he wanted to do, then allowing a minor to drive.  Don wants to “roll back” his odometer, too.

        • http://twitter.com/sara_clarke Sara Clarke

          I actually don’t think this is a slip-up. I was a kid in the 80’s and early 90’s, and I remember that there just wasn’t a lot of variety back then, especially in everyday objects. I imagine there would have been even less variety in the 60’s, when consumer goods were more expensive to produce and there wasn’t the vogue for individuality that there is today. It’s entirely possible that Sally has two identical pairs of slippers, just as it’s likely that she has two identical toothbrushes, identical yellow pencils, and identical black and white speckled notebooks. 

          Also, if you look closely at the stills, those aren’t the same pajamas. The nightgown she’s wearing at Don’s has lace trim, but the one she’s wearing later at Betty’s has piping and ribbon.

    • Anca Mihai

      Sally is wearing the white boots AND make-up. She clearly wanted to feel grown-up for her first date. 

    • Frank_821

      I first noticed Sally from the neck up being Betty. I only noticed the megan boots later

      I still want to scream, stay away from glenn, girl! 

      • CozyCat

        He became much less creepy when he proposed going to a museum.  It’s such an innocent place to spend their secret rendzevous

    • cmb92191

      Notice the fishnets with Megan’s new audition dress.  We could say something about Glenn here.  The few shots we have seen of him, have been in chinos and button down shirts (Ossising day wear), football uniforms, and that COAT from the payphone in dorm hallway.
      Here he looks *almost* put together, like he made an effort to impress Sally.  He has a tie on, dress pants and of course that COAT!
      I wonder if that is the school “day” uniform, or if he dressed up for Sally.   The final shot with him driving and Don in the passenger seat I saw parallels, not much but some.  

      • Sweetbetty

         I smiled thinking that Glen was wearing what a young man with a proper upbringing would wear for a trip to the city in that day.  Today he’d have probably showed up in some t-shirt with a nasty graphic and jeans that showed the top of his boxer shorts.

      • Spicytomato1

        I assumed it was his uniform…didn’t he have to slip away from school to go see her?

      • CC06

        Glen’s outfit when he was in the city looks like standard boarding school uniform in New England.  Actually took me back to the days when I had to wear one.

        • CassandraMortmain

          Glenn’s coat and tie is most certainly standard issue dress for northeast boarding schools.  And it still is today. 

        • cmb92191

          See my husband went to boarding schools in the mid to late 70’s, and his day uniforms were much fussier- so to speak.  I didn’t know him then, but pictures show a shirt, tie, vest, and jacket for the academic boarding school.  The military boarding school (I like the bad ones!)  had a much more severe daily wear.  Glenn’s outfit of shirt, tie and pants looks almost too casual for boarding schools.  This looks more like daily “in the city wear”

      • greenwich_matron

        Megan wore fishnets at Don’s birthday party as well. 

    • http://profile.yahoo.com/W7A5N4G7FDTV5U2KOHBVSB55XI Basket

      Why is Joan made to look so fat, especially around the middle?  Christina Hendricks is not fat.

      • greenwich_matron

        I figured it was baby tummy. It’s been about a year, but this was pre-pilates. 

        • MilaXX

           Agreed. remember when Joan first played a visit to the office this season she could barely fit into her old clothes. I think Joan is losing her baby weight slowly, so the character looks a little heavier than usual.

        • Spicytomato1

          Actually Joseph Pilates developed his system of exercises in the first half of the 20th century but it most definitely didn’t hit the mainstream until much, much later. Sorry for the nitpick!

          • greenwich_matron

            Beats lice.

          • Lisa_Cop

            I believe he was teaching it to dancers in the 50’s (seen pictures of him teaching dancers at Jacobs Pillow Dance Festival) Pilates didn’t really become mainstream until the late ’80’s/early 90’s.

      • Asmith610

        I would hardly call Joan fat, and it doesn’t seem to me that they add any padding to her outfits like they did with Betty. Joan has always been a bit curvy, and after having a baby, i’d expect her to be a little curvier than before. I don’t think women really exercised back then, did they?  If they wanted to lose weight, they just ate tiny portions and jumped for joy when they lost 1/2 a pound ha!

        • http://twitter.com/lbcubbison Laurie Cubbison

           The exercise issue is why it struck me to see Sally watching Jack LaLanne on TV. As far as I can remember, he was really the only one promoting exercise as something for everyone until the mid-70s and the jogging and aerobics crazes started.

          • Lilithcat

            Actually, the Royal Canadian Air Force exercises were extremely popular in the mid-’60s.  There was a paperback book of the exercises that was a huge bestseller.  I still remember my mom doing them regularly.

            • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

              I’ve got a copy. I get a kick out of how it separates the exercises according to gender.  (Many of the “women’s exercises” are downright laughable.)

            • emcat8

              Oh god, yes! My parents had a pamphlet that focused on the core ones, and that was their BIBLE.

            • Kylara7

              My dad did those exercises in the living room for a period in the 70s!  I remember them vividly…

            • Kylara7

              My dad did those exercises in the living room for a period in the 70s!  I remember them vividly…

          • MilaXX

             I actually remember doing jumping jacks at home watching Jack Lalanne so I think people did, but it was more of jump jacks/sit up variety.

            • OmegaMu

              I remember sometime in the mid to late sixties seeing a man in a Jack LaLanne blue jumpsuit jogging down my street.  As a child I was convinced it was him (kinda still am).

          • AutumnInNY

            Sally was home alone on a Monday morning, where normally she’d be in school. There were so few programming options at the time. Maybe three channels. It struck me there was nothing else on and she had the TV on for company.

            • Vlasta Bubinka

              And she was trying to make it look like she planned to stay in, when she had something else on her mind.

            • Sweetbetty

               Yes, so I wondered why Megan was so put-out by the idea that Sally might watch TV all morning.  What else was she going to do, except maybe some schoolwork that she’d brought with her.

              I was always tickled by the fact that Jack’s wife’s name was Elaine; Elaine LaLanne. 

            • AZU403

              I grew up across the Hudson River in NJ, and we got exactly 7 channels. Yeah, morning TV was basically game shows, soap operas, ancient movies, or offbeat stuff like Jack Lalanne.

          • SportifLateBoomer

             I also flashed on the fact that Sally may be working up to an eating disorder, which could involve over-exercising. But maybe I’m overreacting.

            • http://twitter.com/sara_clarke Sara Clarke

              The fact that she mentions early in the episode that Megan lets her eat whatever she wants leads me to believe this is not the case.

        • Lisa_Cop

          I think Christina Hendricks has put on some weight over the past few years. Wouldn’t call her fat but IMO she could stand to lose 10-15 pounds.

          • http://profile.yahoo.com/W2N4OF4EKRY56T6H7DVGRNUAGM Anon

            Wow, hat’s a really shitty thing to say, considering she’s one of the most beautiful women out there. Instead of being a concern troll, maybe you should focus on your attitude.

      • lilibetp

        Because Joan recently had a baby and is still losing the baby weight.

      • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002382070459 Anthony Diaz

         Joan has always looked like that, as has Christina Hendricks. They just rarely shoot her from the side, but I noticed that she’s always had a middle like that when I re-watched the series from the start. Even in candids of Christina when she’s wearing jeans and a tshirt you can tell she’s not as small as she appears on Mad Men (when shot from the front or back)

      • ldancer

        Hey, many women don’t have flat bellies, even ones who’ve never had kids. It’s sad that the word “fat” is thrown around so easily. I guess if you’re not flat as a board and built like a boy, you’re fat. God forbid you actually look like a woman.

        • Jacqueline Wessel

          True…Often when trying on clothes I look in the mirror and say “not bad” and then I turn sideways and say “yikes”. I keep trying on clothes until both views are “not bad” or dare I say “pretty damn good”.

        • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_3KCDEX4FOTCFHZP6WLKSOOKUVM Danielle

          It’s rare for a woman to be that voluptuous and have a super-tiny-flat middle.  Joan was never skinny like Betty, Peggy or many of the younger secretaries.  I think her body has always been gorgeous.

        • Lisa_Cop

          Disagree. So many people nowadays ARE fat thanks to fast food and diminishing necessity of exercise in the world of computers and cars. Obesity is rampant. Even in NYC probably half the population is fat; I live next to an elementary school and the number of obese kids is frightening and sad.

        • ldancer

          Argh, Disqus sucks! I’m trying to respond to a comment to me made by Lisa_Cop and I can’t even find it now! In any case, my comment about Joan and people not always having flat bellies is just that, nothing more. I was responding to what I perceive as a distasteful and harsh way of judging women’s bodies. Joan is shown with a little natural roundness to her belly and suddenly she looks “fat”. There is a vast difference between fat and simply curvy. And, I don’t know why you begin your comment with “I disagree”, when I didn’t make any larger point about childhood obesity or the general trend towards obesity in this country. Yes, absolutely, those are both large and terrible problems. But they have nothing to do with anything I said.

          I’m a very curvy woman. I inherited the family body shape, which is a slightly round belly. I have it no matter what I weigh or how much exercise I do. For reference, I am a professional bellydancer, a devoted yoga practitioner, and a regular Crossfitter. I also eat no wheat, dairy, or sugar. And yet I still have this shape. I had it before pregnancy and after. I am by no means obese. But I don’t get to join the special club that exists in this society of ours, because I’m curvy and strong and soft, and the club is only for boys with tits. And if you’re a woman, with curves, with round parts, you get all kinds of insults thrown at you, and you’re “fat”. I think the original comment about Joan looking fat falls into that category. And that was why I said what I did. We have a very unfortunate way of looking at female bodies in this culture. It only allows for two extremes: skinny, and morbidly obese. If you’re not the former, you’re still considered fat. There’s no middle ground. It is infuriating and frankly it’s keeping us down. Stick it to the man and deal with The Belly! A lot of women have it.

      • boleyn28

        I think shhe looks like a typical 60s sex kitten. she did have a baby but its true she has always looked like that, and by that I mean absolutely sexy gorgoes.

        • SewingSiren

          Joan is heavier though the waist and abdomen  than has ever been considered sex symbol material. The busty stars in their prime had very (very) small waists. The oft mentioned Elizabeth Taylor was mocked mercilessly in the press when she gained weight in the 60’s (she wasn’t nearly as fat as she got in the 70’s). 
          I think Joan wears her clothes too tight and the necklines too open to be considered a figure of respect in the office. Even today if a woman wears cocktail attire to work she is not repeated by her male or female co-workers.

          • mixedupfiles

             She has had this shape since the beginning of Mad Men, and she is most definitely considered sex symbol material – on the show and off it.

            • SewingSiren

              Just to be clear I did not mean to imply that Joan’s figure has changed much since the show began. It has been insinuated several times on the show that Joan is past her prime. When her drivers license was posted on the bulletin board (age and weight) and the episode were she and Don talk and he says she used to get so many flowers. She is rather cruel to women less good looking than herself, like Peggy (at first) and the German lady doing the lipstick survey . She is very threatened by women who are equally or better looking who use their looks to get ahead (Jane).
              If you check the measurements of Sex symbols of the 1960’s such as Bridget Bardot, Raquel Welch, and Ann Margret you will see that their waist measurements are much smaller in proportion to their bust and hips than Joan/Christina Hendrick’s are.

      • Glammie

        Janie Bryant has said that they padded Hendricks to give her a post-baby tummy.  

    • http://profiles.google.com/padawansguide Maggie *

      I noticed that in the scene where Don fires Lane, he’s wearing a blue suit.  It’s not a color I think I’ve seen him in before.  It put a lot of contrast between them though.

    • sweetlilvoice

      As a fellow voluptuous woman, I can say Joan probably wouldn’t wear a bikini. She would need a bathing suit with a lot more support. She also might feel that bikinis were too youthful and she’s a mature woman-with a partnership and a baby. You watch Beach Party movies from that time and it’s full of teenagers. And can you imagine the comments her mother would make? Joan would look stunning in a one piece or something along those lines.

      • Jodie_S

        Full-figured Annette Funicello always wore a one-piece in her beach party movies.

        • http://twitter.com/purpleprose78 purpleprose78

           I am ashamed that I know this. But Anette Funicello didn’t always wear a one piece. I saw her in a Bikini in one of the movies.  I think it was one of the later ones.

          • 3rdsister

             I bet you saw her in a two piece suit but I think Disney had some clause in her contract saying she could not show her belly button — she is always fully covered from thigh to high waist.

        • Lilithcat

          >Not always.  Check out the two-piece suits she wore in Muscle Beach Party and Beach Blanket Bingo

          • Jodie_S

            Yes, you’re right. Those are two piece suits but they’re not really bikinis. I think it had something to do with Walt Disney not wanting her to mar her Mouseketeer good girl image. 

            • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_PRM766RS56X25A5742XLACK2LM Sam

              I believe that for the first movie Walt asked her to not wear a bikini, so out of respect for him she didn’t. But after the movies became hugely popular and she could build a career out of them she decided to do what she wanted and wore whatever she wanted.

            • sweetlilvoice

              She was also pregnant in one of the movies and spent the entire time in cover ups. Hilarious for a beach movie. 
               

            • Sweetbetty

               I remember going to see that movie.  My mom, who read tons of movie magazines (there were no “People” or “Us” or those types), had mentioned that Annette was pregnant so I paid very close attention and the few times she was in a bathing suit she was sitting or there was something positioned in front of her.

      • gloriana232

        It’s kind of insane how little support bikinis have (barring the underwire styles). After being an A most of my teenage years, I’m a B cup or so now, and those triangle bikinis are pretty scandalous on me. Boobies = annoying. 

        • sweetlilvoice

          Amen! I had a skinny, tiny breasted friend in jr. high and she wore a star spangled string bikini all summer. I sulked the whole time.

        • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=664429801 Kate Clausen

           I used to be fairly small – a B – but I have a two month old that I breastfeed and now I’m a DD!  It’s completely different.  A lot of my clothes buying and selecting centers on getting clothes/underclothes with enough room and support.  And yeah, a bikini would definitely be out.  Though not just because of the boobs, also baby tummy!

    • Sweetpea176

      Wow, that is one awful dress Betty is wearing!  You really get to soak up all its fugly glory in the stills.

      • http://twitter.com/purpleprose78 purpleprose78

         You know they’re putting a lot of effort into making Betty look fat. It isn’t working for me.  It just looks like she’s wearing clothes that are a couple of sizes too big for her.

        • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_3KCDEX4FOTCFHZP6WLKSOOKUVM Danielle

          She actually looks a lot thinner in the earlier scene, when you can write off the bulk to the layers of ski clothes.

          • Lisa_Cop

            Yup! Her face, neck and calves are now all thin. I assume they’ve padded her body.

            • Sweetbetty

               The true “fatness” indicator for me is her chin.  It’s only been in recent years that TV has gone to the trouble of adding a double chin to under-clothes padding to make a person look genuinely fat.  I’ll bet JJ will be happy when that double chin is gone; it must be a horrendous process  having it put on.  PS:  My comments are from an overweight person so please don’t attack me for using the word “fat” or my other references to being heavy; I’ve lived the life since childhood.

        • luciaphile

          I’m assuming that’s intentional. She’s in WW and losing weight. Her clothes are too big now. That’s what happens and usually you face a conundrum. If the weight is coming off steadily, how often do you buy new stuff that fits you if you’re just going to have to buy more the next 5/10 pounds you lose.

          • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_VZLU6YVO4BRTELTTH3GRAAMWZQ Dot

            That’s a good point. I do really hope she’s able to drop the weight by next season. I hate seeing her in that fat suit and padding. You can even see evidence of the weird prosthetic chin in one of the pictures above. Gah!

            • Asmith610

              The only reason they had to make her fat for this season is because she was pregnant in real life. I’m sure they’ll get her back to her normal size by next season… because I bet January Jones didn’t have any trouble losing that baby weight!

            • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_VZLU6YVO4BRTELTTH3GRAAMWZQ Dot

              Oh yes, I know that’s why they wrote Betty’s weight gain into the script. But it will be interesting to see whether she actually ends up dropping the weight due to WW. I really do hope so!

            • http://twitter.com/mediapileup Beth Anderson

               She definitely appears to be losing weight. She would not have worn that blue dress with the fitted waist earlier in the season, so she seems to be making progress in her weight loss.

        • Sweetpea176

          What is working, in my opinion, is showing a Betty who is uncomfortable with herself, and who doesn’t know how to dress her body anymore, and who looks like she’s in an awkward place of her “fat clothes” being too big, but her “regular” clothes are still too small. Janie Bryant is telling a whole story with that one spectacularly unflattering dress! And it makes me like Betty more. Impressive!

    • KayeBlue

      How much better can “a little girl, only playing at being a woman” be said than Sally Draper’s childlike dress and her teenage white boots? 

      Megan’s new audition dress is much sexier, too. Fishnets, heavier make up, bigger hair… she and Sally both want desperately to be seen as grown-up and sophisticated, but they’re not prepared for the responsibility it comes with (Sally with her period, Megan with caring for children). 

      I think Joan’s dresses in this episode all look like full-body versions of men’s ties, like T Lo said regarding Lane. In the last scene, her print even looks like Cooper’s bowtie. 

    • Paigealicious

      I loved Megan’s new audition dress! And her flesh-toned lipstick! So 60s!!

    • MerBearStare

      Reading Mad Style is the first thing I do at work every Wednesday morning. Love it!

      • sarahjane1912

        Chortle. It’s my version of the Six’o’clock Rock, being posted as it is at around 6pm in the evening in my corner of the world. 

        Bombay/Tonic + Mad Style. Perfect start to the evening [dinner prep' can wait ...].

        Edited to add: dang, I should be drinking a dry martini! *GRIN*

        • CozyCat

          Yeah, it’s a waste to drink Bombay with tonic.  Bombay for martini’s, something with less subtle herbals and more juniper (Tangaray, etc) with tonic.  (We gin drinkers have to stick together!)

        • CozyCat

          Yeah, it’s a waste to drink Bombay with tonic.  Bombay for martini’s, something with less subtle herbals and more juniper (Tangaray, etc) with tonic.  (We gin drinkers have to stick together!)

          • sarahjane1912

            *Big thumbs up* !!!

            And completely off-topic, but CozyCat … have you tried Tanqueray 10? It’s marvellous with tonic. Though my perfect ‘summer drink’ has to be Hendricks + tonic [with a nice wodge of cucumber instead of lime/lemon]. Delish. 

            Note to self: Martinis a go-go for next week’s ‘festivities’. *GRIN*

          • Maggie_Mae

            I hate when you order a martini & they assume you want vodka.  The vodka martini is an acceptable variant of The Martini–which is made with Gin!

      • Sweetbetty

         Wow, I’ve never had a job where I could get away with that.  Lucky you.

    • cteeny21

      I really look forward to your Mad Style post. It really makes the characters seems more real. Have you ever interviewed Janie Bryant? You really seem to get her. Great work TLo!

    • http://www.facebook.com/dylan.swain Dylan Swain

      I thought for sure you guys would have something to say about Don’s green sweater that he wore on his working Sunday.

      • jennymoo

        With the turtleneck!  I saw that and wondered if Megan was buying him younger, hipper casual clothes.

      • http://twitter.com/jb5280co Joy

        Me, too.  It was the first time that Don was also wearing a turtle neck — a black one — under that green cardigan sweater.

        • http://www.facebook.com/people/Sally-Barry/100000202371996 Sally Barry

          I remember my mom trying to get my dad to wear a turtleneck back in the day, but he didn’t like them rubbing against his neck and beard

      • dashransome

         Me too, with the cardigan!!!  I gasped a little when I saw it.  Loved the green color, and remember my dad and uncles wearing something similar when I was a kid.  It seemed very out of the ordinary in how we usually see him. 

    • susu11

      Oh God, that screenshot of Lane looking at Joan makes me want to cry all over again :(

      It’s really unusual for Joan to wear orange/gold/black together isn’t it? It’s definitely looked autumnal to me-a time of transition. Orange/black being Halloween colors invoke an unsettling, macabre feeling.

      I find the details on Rebecca’s ‘ghostly’ gray dress interesting. They’re look like long bird feathers or maybe snakes cutting across her dress? (When I first saw the dress on TV I thought they were feathers but in the screenshot I’m not sure) It’s still a bit early in the morning for me to draw up a conclusive symbolic significance about that detail, but I have heard that certain animals can be seen as bad omens.

      Though its not depicted here, I really like the costume choices that Janie picked in the scene where Sally, Megan and Megan’s redheaded friend (Julia?) go to lunch. I noticed that Sally and Megan’s skirts were cut pretty short, and it reminded me of the time in middle school when all my girlfriends and I use to roll up our Catholic school kilts to make them into miniskirts. The skirts made Sally and Megan really look like genuine gal pals, or even sisters to me in that scene.

      Thanks for the post TLo- Great job as usual! :)

      • Anne Buroker

        Rebecca’s dress looks like it has a rope design to me.  Obviously, I’m seeing this detail in hindsight.  I am glad someone else noticed this detail as well.

      • http://profiles.google.com/sara.e.munoz Sara Munoz

        At the time I thought it was feathers. Or a feather print. It’s beautiful, she looks really stunning in that shot. Lane looks great too. How ironic.

      • CozyCat

        Re Joan’s new dresses:  it’s almost like Joan is taking a cue from Peggy and not use her sex appeal.  She used to dress to attract attention from men.  Now, that she’s a real 100% business woman, she’s working out how to fit in with the boys and distinguish herself from the secretaries.  ( I LOVED the fact that she made it clear that she will no longer take minutes in partners meetings!  That’s a secretary’s job, and she’s not a secretary, she’s a PARTNER!)

        In the last episode, Peggy started moving the other way, towards a more fashionable look.  They’re getting pretty close to meeting in the middle style wise.

        • Sweetbetty

          Not that we’ll ever see it, but I’d love to see a segment on Joan shopping for new clothes and hear her internal dialogue as she chooses and rejects various wardrobe additions.  Peggy too, since she’s in a new position professionally.

          • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=584364405 Sabrina Abhyankar

            I think any internal dialogue from Joan would be interesting. I think the only time we’ve had something like internal dialogue was when Don was writing in his journal in S4. It would be interesting to see what goes on in Joan’s head. 

    • HM3

      Joan’s latter dress could be said to be covered in a design resembling a Golden Celebration Rose, a particularly British type of rose. Though there is little to celebrate in this episode (except perhaps her new financial stability), and this specific hybrid of rose wasn’t created until 1992, but nevertheless, I wonder if Janie Bryant, in her own little way, decided upon this deliberately. As the character with perhaps the closest ties to Lane, it is notable that Joan should wear something both funerary (black) and English to work that day.

      • MK03

        It’s Janie Bryant. Of course it was deliberate. :D

      • AudreysMom

         I LOVE that Joan’s story is told not only in color but in a singular fabric icon of the rose.

    • VanessaDK

      Does Cooper always look so put together?  I thought it went well with his substantial role in the plot.  I always enjoy when Bert resumes his leadership role–doing research on the issue of fees, confronting Don, and being the one who told everyone to go home because of a building problem.  I like to think of him as retired by choice, but capable of stepping in when his company is under threat.

      • CatherineRhodes

        I agree. I feel comforted knowing he’s around.

    • VanessaDK

      Set dressing, and not fashion, but it is also striking how small and dowdy Lane and Rebecca’s apartment looks in comparison to Don’s or Rogers, or the houses in the ‘burbs.  Everything shows how far above his means he has stretched.

      • Lilak

        But also how very English, whose middle class (even upper) was in post-war mode for a looong time, much much longer than the U.S. 

        • Lisa_Cop

          England entered WWII very early on (years earlier than the U.S.) and London was bombed by Germany regularly. You don’t get over that kind of horror very quickly. Also subdued tastes (as opposed to American nouveau riche excess) seem very proper and very English. Unless you are McQueen, Galliano or Vivienne Westwood of course.

          • sarahjane1912

            Agree.

            Rationing may have ended in 1954 but the vestiges of WWII lasted well into the mid-sixties, with the wholesale destruction of both beautiful ancestral homes and working class community districts, the mammoth taxes, the influx of immigrants from exotic ports of call … It was a real shake-up for the UK at the time. :-(

        • Chickadeep

          This is exactly how I interpret the Pryces’ style and surroundings; it screams “post-WWII austerity” to me. I know that the Brits lived with rationing and rebuilding for quite a while after the war ended, and people of their age would have spent a good 10-15 years in this mindset by then, keeping frugal habits and making modest, traditional, built-to-last clothing choices. The mid-’60s “Swinging London” of popular culture was acknowledged by those in their 30s and 40s, but not really embraced; you’d never see Rebecca Pryce anywhere near trendy shops on Carnaby or Oxford Streets, or the Kings Rd. She’d be buying her sensible undies at M&S and taking her decade-old good tweed suit to a tailor for alterations as seasons and fashions changed.

          The red outfit with the fur collar and matching hat was a familiar sight to me when I lived in the UK in the early-mid ’80s; ladies of a certain age (in their late 50s or 60s) and social strata (at both high and low ends) were still rocking similar looks: wool coats (often a swing coat style) over sensible dresses, worn with low court shoes and accessorized with matching hat/gloves/bag. The coats and accessories were clearly of a late ’50s-early ’60s vintage, well-made, and [by then] sort of frumpy and well-worn, but respectable. The only visible difference was that the ladies at the upper end of the socioeconomic spectrum were wearing good (but old-fashioned) jewelry and sometimes a cashmere cardigan or scarf, and the working class ones had the flashier costume jewelry and cheaper shoes. Even the Queen used to rock that look when she was on vacation, though her jewelry was REALLY good and her scarves from Hermes. The whole vibe is sort of the UK equivalent of US “old money” types who wear the same stodgy Preppie duds for 2-3 decades, until they can’t be mended anymore.

          • sweetlilvoice

            I love stories like this! England is very dear to my heart.

      • Pennymac

        Yes! And dark, dark dark; oppressive, almost.

      • Lilithcat

        Set dressing, and not fashion

        Well, this is Mad Style, not Mad Fashion!  

    • http://viridianpostcard.blogspot.com/ viridian61

      Thank you for a wonderful post.
      I noticed:Betty’s ski sweater had stylized blue hearts in it.The pink and blue of Betty and Sally together on the bed are indeed the colors of the Madonna (speaking from a Catholic upbringing.)
      Somehow I hadn’t noticed that Lane got all dressed up to kill himself in the Jag – we are so used to seeing him in a suit as you said.
      Sally’s bathrobe in the morning scenes with Megan seems way too small. A subtle way to show she is growing up quickly.  You don’t notice it – but you subconciously notice it.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=67800245 Betsy Waalen

      I thought for sure you guys would comment on the outfits Megan and Sally were wearing when they were leaving to go to the cafe.  It struck me how similar they looked and then the cafe scene was all about Sally wanting emulate grown-up Megan.

    • Le_Sigh

      Whoa – Scarlett’s dress also matches the green mugs and flatware on the conference room table.  And I think her nails match the red in Joan’s dress! 

      • Mod_girl

         Yes! All of the greenish table “accessories” seem to point a trail leading directly to her! I didn’t notice it while watching, but in this still it’s impossible to miss.

    • http://profile.yahoo.com/J2VE4NE2FY2BP4QD2XOYKJGLPI Laura

      Totally noticed Joan’s new clothes. She looks FABULOUS in that blue and red dress. 

      • sarahjane1912

        So much more ‘senior executive’ despite — as TLo point out — the fab nod to her femininity. I really loved the dress too and I think the neckline works very well for her and helps to diminish, while not obliterating, her bustline. Clever.

        • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

          A question, though: doesn’t the partnership only bring in money if the company is making a profit? It seems that SCDP is on somewhat rocky ground financially (lavish lifestyles of Don, Roger, et al notwithstanding), so I’m not sure she’d actually have more cash flow at present – it seemed like more of a long-term investment in the company.

          • sarahjane1912

            Actually … I don’t know how Joan’s partnership is paying her dividends. I don’t think — as you say — it IS yet. But while Joan is aware of the straitened circumstances the agency is [and has been] experiencing, I suspect that she might yet have made a few wardrobe purchases to boost her spirits [and underline her new position as a partner]. Nothing like a new frock to shiny things up a bit. ;-)

            • CozyCat

              I came of age during the horrible, 70s “dress for success” period when professional women were expected to wear suits that emulated men’s suits as closely as possible.  I remember the book that started the trend (called, of course, “Dress for Success”) describing how men had a very strict and narrow dress code regardng what was acceptable.  Following the dress code demonstrated that you were in the know and part of the team.

              Joan’s new dresses are a move towards joining the boys, particularly in terms of color.  She bought the new clothes to make it clear her status has changed. 

            • sarahjane1912

              Absolutely.

              Though I suspect that when/if MM DO get into the 70s, our Joanie might not become a ‘Charlie Girl’. ;-) *Don’t quote me on that! LOL!*

            • Maggie_Mae

              The core teaching of Dress for Success is that you should dress for the role you want. Which in many cases meant that women should dress like men–leading to such excesses as The Tootsie Look.  

              But I see ambitious administrative women at SCDP aspiring to dress more like Joan.  (Rather as Scarlet did in the meeting.)  More expensive ensembles, certainly–but Joan will never look like a man!  

      • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

        I was trying to make out the print pattern on that dress.  It reminded me of small crests, with a militaristic feel (e.g., navy blue background) despite its feminine cut.  I thought it looked somewhat regimented in a way that called back to Lane’s wardrobe (in addition to the colors matching those on his tie).

    • g_mo

      Was there any significance in the period to wearing a brooch on the left vs. right? In the stills from the partners’ meeting, Scarlet is wearing hers on the right (which I am almost certain is the way we have always seen Joan wearing brooches) but Joan now has hers on the left. I didn’t notice it in the episode, but in the stills it’s almost jarring.

      • Lilithcat

        Was there any significance in the period to wearing a brooch on the left vs. right?

        No.

      • judybrowni

        Although there was an urban legend that wearing a circle pin on left or right indicated virginity, or not.

        Can’t remember which.

      • Sweetbetty

         I’m not sure about brooches in general but when I was in HS in the 60s all the girls were wearing “Virgin Pins”, which were simply an empty circle of gold or silver, very plain, no stones or other ornamentation.  Supposedly if you were wearing one you had taken a “vow of virginity” and you were supposed to wear it on a particular side.  If you wore it on the other side you had supposedly broken your “vow”.  Silly kids stuff that I’m sure had nothing to do with Joan and/or Scarlett’s choices.

        • g_mo

          Hmm, interesting! It does have that kind of “transition” feel, like switching the tassel from one side to the other. Maybe that’s what they were going for. Also maybe I completely made up this whole “her brooch is on the left for the first time ever!” business in the first place. It really does look odd on her left, though, to me.

        • sweetlilvoice

          Now I know what they were talking about in Grease. They try to pierce Sandy’s ears with Frenchie’s virgin pin. 

          • Sweetbetty

             Isn’t it amazing, the things we learn here at TLo’s place? :-)

    • Judy_J

      I love that Sally’s wearing knee sox when we first see her in the green/gold drop waist dress.  I had so many pairs of knee sox….one pair for practically every outfit I owned.  I liked wearing them, not only because they were in style, but also you didn’t have to wear pantyhose if you were wearing knee sox.  There were some girls in school who wore hose with the sox, but I wasn’t one of them.

      • Sweetbetty

         We would have never been allowed to wear pantyhose, or stockings, at Sally’s age back then.  Maybe two more years for very special occasions, definitely by 16, but never at age 12.

        • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1129137319 Paula Pertile

          I started wearing pantyhose in junior high, when I was 11-12. (But I was not allowed to wear jeans, like all the cool kids, so figure that one out.) 

          • http://www.lindamerrill.com Linda Merrill

             I started wearing pantyhose in the 6th grade for special occasions, but never jeans till high school. Of course, I used to tuck them in the bottom of my book bag and change when I got to school. This was 1973/74 -ish.

            • ybbed

              somewhere it was stated that pantyhose were not invented yet. I remember wearing hose with a garter belt in the late sixties.

            • emcat8

              Well, they had to be, since SCDP had the Topaz pantyhose account.

            • Maggie_Mae

              Peggy wore pantyhose in a very early episode.  The Tom & Lorenzo Research Group did extensive work & we discovered that pantyhose had been invented years before this last episode. 

              But they became really popular in the Day of the Miniskirt!  

            • ybbed

              Was it panty hose or just hose?

            • Chickadeep

              They were around then. I started school in ’68 and definitely owned a bunch of pairs of semi-sheer tights like the ones Sally is wearing with the boots. The show is set in early ’67 now; that’s only 2 years before The Brady Bunch made its debut. Sally’s in the target demo for that show and if you remember how the girls were dressed in early seasons, outfits were very similar to the ones Sally’s wearing now (maybe a little bit younger/groovier). Sally’s dressed like a slightly younger, suburban version of Cissy on Family Affair. http://www.kathygarver.com/cissy1.jpg

        • TheDivineMissAnn

          It was the same in our house too – “silk stockings”, as my father called them, were not allowed.  I was only allowed to wear them at age 15 when I got a job in an office after school, and after working there a month or so they asked me to start wearing pantyhose.  I was more than happy to oblige and, since it was for a job, my Dad acquiesced.

      • Glammie

        Oh wow, I remember how much I wanted knee socks as a kid–and pushing my mother to quit buying those babyish ankle socks.  I wore knee socks for hears and years.  I was particularly partial to white nylon.  (Ugh.)  Sally’s knee socks and that busy little print on her dress brought back a lot of memories.

        • sarahjane1912

          Knee socks! Knee socks!

          I had cotton/poly blend socks of varying patterns [worn -- naturally -- with patent-leather 'Mary Janes' and a skirt or kilt, depending on the 'occasion'] and totally agree about the memories. I wasn’t fond of the red rings said socks left beneath my knees though [due to the elastic garters one was required to wear to keep the socks in place]. ;-)

          We were even forced to wear knee socks at school until we graduated to stockings/tights in our senior years. Even those had a regulation colour though … LOL!

          Wow. Am constantly amazed at all the memories which flood back when dishing about Mad Style!

          • TheDivineMissAnn

             We used *gasp* rubber bands to hold our socks up and, of course they left a red band around your calf.

      • CozyCat

        I remember wearing lots of tights in grade school in the 60s.  They never fit right, and always ended of puddling around my ankles. 

        Sally’s actually pretty fashionably dressed for a kid of that time.  Betty may be neglecting her own style, but she makes sure her little girl looks good (I’m sure Betty still buys the majority of Sally’s clothes.)

    • Jodie_S

      Although many see Sally’s dress as being frumpy or a little girl’s dress, the white collar and cuffs were very popular at the time (Mary Quant inspired) so her dress wasn’t as out-of-date as are all of Betty’s current clothes. However, it’s still very suburban girl shopping with her mom.  Wearing such a dress with knee socks or knee high boots seems very much what a teenager in the 60s might choose.

      • http://www.GiftedCollector.com Nancy Abrams

        Y’all might be interested in a documentary I saw the other night about Vidal Sassoon (Vidal Sassoon: The Movie. How One Man Changed the World with a Pair of Scissors). It included a conversation with Mary Quant in which they reminisced about the ’60s and their influence on the fashions of the time.

      • AZU403

        Sally really is “where the brook and the river meet” – I couldn’t quite figure out whether this was before Xmas 1967 or just after, but she’s 12 or 13 now, and the dresses that fit in 6th grade won’t fit her now. I though her skirt was particularly short for junior high, even if it was 1967.

        • Sweetbetty

           According to the calender on Joan’s office wall it was February of ’67.

    • Susan Crawford

      Great analysis, as always!

      What struck me about Betty was that she HAS begun to shed some pounds. Yes, she has a way to go, but she’s on her way back. The ski sweater and turtleneck were very much classic styles of not only the sixties, but were classics dating all the way back to the thirties – ski resort posters frequently featured variations on the German or Scandinavian-style sweater: folkloric print, bright colors, turtleneck peeking up. And I thought Betty looked great!

      She was rude, impatient, and angry with Sally, of course. And frankly, I was totally with Sally on te used ski boot question. Kiernan Shipka’s little moue of distaste as she sniffed the boots was priceless. Sally looked SO young in this episode, despite her attempts to “glam up” and be stylish and adult. Her dresses were age-appropriate, schoolgirlish, and conservative Best & Co. Even the addition of the Go-Go boots did nothing but accentuate her youth

      But there were some shots of her face that captured that moment when the beauty of a young woman is beginning to shine through – kudos again to Ms. Shipka, and to the make-up and lighting crews of MM for “getting” that fleeting, touching moment so perfectly. The Fanning Sisters better start looking over their shoulders – they have REAL competition!

      Joan is maintaining. That is the message I got from this episode. Things have happened that she is desperately trying to put behind her, yet obviously she has been deeply scarred. Her dresses have not yet begun to break her out of her classic mode, nor will she ever abandon her basic style. But the subtle little signals are there: her partner-meeting dress looked costly, and the hints of color and the bows were perfect indicators that Joan is in a different place.

      (Personally, I think when Scarlett is fully trained, there ought to be a ceremony where Joan places the pencil-pendant around Scarlett’s neck!) I loved Scarlett’s dress – very much a Joan-inspired creation, perfect at the head of the table, an acme of color in a sea of subdued deep greys and blacks.

      Megan’s at-home wear is getting really drab. Darkish-colored, basic sweaters, slim pants, no shoes. But the new “audition dress”? Very cool! And also MUCH shorter than the old taupe creation. I loved the luncheon coats she and her actress buddy wore. That orange color seems to be her friend’s signature. Interesting gal, that, with her “no boundaries” sexy-talk. Hmmmmm. I’m keeping a close eye on THAT one, all right!

      Lane – oh, poor, sad, doomed Lane. How typical was it that he stayed so buttoned up in his three-piece, British-styled clothes even unto death itself? His wife’s attempt to celebrate his being chosen for the new position in the ad club was a forcible attempt not only to pull HIM out of his gloom, but clearly an attempt to convince herself that SHE wasn’t unhappy. The red, fur-collared coat and matching fur hat was supposed to be festive.

      But it was somehow – as our leaders T and Lo stated – a bit tatty. Several years old, just a bit too much out of style. But it brought back memories: my mother had an almost identical  coat in Kelly green trimmed with mouton, and a matching pillbox hat in mink. It was a classic look!

      Later, in the apartment, her greyish dress with those sword-like inserts was SO indicative of the theme of the show this week. Lane’s life turned to dust and ashes – and that dress was the metaphor for what was happening to Lane, and what she would face very soon. Those slashing inserts seemed to be aimed right at this woman’s gut.

      Like many others, I found Lane’s snapping of his iconic glasses so touching. My God, Jared Harris is an incredible actor. His face speaks volumes, he uses his entire body to project a character, and brought SUCH pathos to poor, trapped, wounded, flawed Lane. God, I am going to miss seeing him. And an Emmy should be ordered for him ASAP. What an indelible performance.

      SCDP is going to be terra incognita in the next season: no Peggy; no Lane; Partner Joan; Sleasy Pete; Take-no-Prisoners Don; Ginzo and his dark genius; Ken with balls of steel; Roger, Roger, Roger; Sally in a whole new world of womanhood; Megan and the Big Break she seeks – Napalm. It is going to be napalm. So let us lay Lane to rest and see what the immediate future brings next week. (Don’t know about YOU, fellow fawns, but I’m keeping the Kleenex and the Scotch close at hand for the finale.) 

      • charlotte

         A ceremony where Joan hands that pen necklace over to Scarlett? I’d love to see that! Thanks for your post, I second pretty much everything you said.
        One other thing that struck me was that Sally unintentionally also mimicked Peggy with that flip hairstyle.
        Beside the Kleenex and Scotch, don’t forget Bugles and orange sherbet!

      • http://www.GiftedCollector.com Nancy Abrams

        Mouton! I was never quite sure what animal that stuff came from.

        • suzq

          A type of sheep.

        • Sweetbetty

           I’ve handled many vintage mouton jackets.  Mouton is sheepskin sheared and treated to look like beaver. 

          • CozyCat

            You can get really beautiful mouton jackets thru vintage stores or ebay.  Unfortunately, they tend to be very small sizes.  Sigh….

          • http://www.GiftedCollector.com Nancy Abrams

            My grandfather sold fur collars (fox, mink, etc.). You remember, the kind that had snaps in the back so you could wear them on different cashmere sweaters. I never did like the mouton, so I called it mutton.

            • Sweetbetty

               I think mouton was the “poor woman’s” mink ;->

      • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

        That pen necklace has always suggested support staff/office manager to me, yet is such a central prop for Joan.  Now that she’s a partner, it seems to me like a holdover from her past corporate identity.  I wonder if it will stay with her or if it will vanish, maybe in concert with a plot point.

      • Lisa_Cop

        Did anyone see Jared Harris in “Igby Goes Down” w/Amanda Peet and Kieran Culkan from 10 years ago? He was great as an arty drug dealer. Never recognized him from MadMen until last year when I finally read the credits.

      • Ksagun13

        Has Peggy really left the show?  I’d be surprised.  I suspect she’ll be back in some incarnation.  I hadn’t heard anything about her contract being up.  

      • greenwich_matron

        I was totally with Sally on te used ski boot question

        I would have so acquitted Betty if she strangled Sally! I have the same type of discussion with my kids every time we do any sort of activity. My line is always, “Poor baby, is your life of privilege not privileged enough?”

      • boleyn28

        I dont think Peggy left the show, she will still be there just not at SCDP.

        • Susan Crawford

          I agree – didn’t mean to imply she had been written out, only that I had missed her presence in this episode. I look forward to seeing her in action in her new job.

    • http://profile.yahoo.com/73Q6VFU33UGYTWN2SEN7QPZ6YY Stephanie

      I don’t know if anyone else thought of this yet, but my crazy idea is they cast Megan as Lady Madonna and her career takes off, but in film/tv. Maybe causing a move to CA?  It worked for Ali McGraw and her lipstick ad :-)

      • Lisa_Cop

        Ms. McGraw was married to studio head Robert Evans; that’s the reason she had a career.

        • Susan Crawford

          Prior to her marriage to Evans, Ali McGraw had quite a successful career as a photo stylist in NYC, as well as doing some print modeling. She really was one of the style icons of the late sixties, but mostly of the seventies. I used to love her blend of bo-ho and western that she wore in her private life, and I think a lot of Ralp0h Lauren’s early influences came out of Ali McGraw and a few other young stars of the day.

          I always had the feeling that despite her fame after “Love Story”, McGraw was happiest away from Hollywood, on her ranch, living pretty quietly – and she still looks fabulous!

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_TRNFWXFV5XXESSL5Q4YADG6WWQ Bridget

       One detail I loved as a sign of how “real” this show gets things, is that when the men went into Lane’s office to take down his body, Don, pulled off his overcoat to get down to business, did what he had to, balled up the overcoat and got out of there to stand among the remaining partners and hear the resignation letter, absently holding his bunched up coat, while the shock sunk in.  It IS a small thing, but it struck me as so real – sort of those things we do by unconsciously while under stress, but have no idea we’re doing it.  Easy enough when a real human being is in that situation, but a beautiful piece of direction when someone has to think through what little touches would make this situation feel authentic.  

      • http://www.GiftedCollector.com Nancy Abrams

        When he took off his coat and jacket, I thought of how he did that to fix Trudy’s faucet. Don taking care of the things that other men don’t want to, or can’t, handle.

        • Glammie

          Yes.  We suddenly see farm boy Dick Whitman come through and he’s actually a kind of capable guy–in ways that his more gently bred peers aren’t.  And yet Don’s so ashamed of being Dick Whitman.  It’s an interesting irony, isn’t it? In some ways, Don should be proud of being self-made–but it’s his big secret and it’s caused him to act badly.  

          It does make him a fascinating character.

          • CozyCat

            And remember when he was visitng Anna and stopped to fix cars with the other guys.

          • formerlyAnon

             I think you’ve articulated the most important strength of the show – the characters have depth and often are “fascinating.” Even as our trained t.v.-viewing reflexes try to shove them into stereotyped roles, good guy, bad guy, tortured guy, downtrodden guy, etc. they refuse to stay there.

          • boleyn28

            Its no secret to his co workers that he is a self made man, they all know that. 

            • Glammie

              No, not to the extreme degree that he actually is–i.e. the poverty, the illegitimate birth.  His underlings, in particular, know little about him that way.  It was made quite clear in his confrontation with Lane that Lane had no idea what kind of background Don has. Pete and Bert know–at least about the deception–but not the circumstances that drove him to it.

    • sarahjane1912

      Personally, while I agree that Thin Betty could have totally worked a sixties ski bunny look, Not-So-Thin Betty doesn’t look that bad at all to me. She’s made an effort to wear a turquoise skivvy [um, cotton top with a roll neck; not sure what Americans call it!] that ties in, colour-wise, with the mock fair-isle sweater. She looks like my mother used to look when doing the drive before hitting the piste; a nod to the skiing holiday without overdoing it.

      I’m torn between whether Glen looks reasonably ‘put together’ because he’s trying to impress Sally or — more likely to my mind — he was trying to impress the guys back in the dorm, the ones whom he told he was out for the day to Do It. I also think that, dressed as he is, he would be less likely to call attention to the fact that he’s ditching school. After all, the ‘couple’ do visit a museum and should some ‘responsible adult’ ask why he isn’t in school he could always pretend he’s on a school excursion/trip or something.

      Yup, Megan’s green sweater, to me, is part of her lounging-at-home look, the equivalent of PJs or tracky-dacks [sweats]. Remember, she is unlikely to really dress down because — as someone else pointed out, wondering whether it was her ‘waiting-for-Don’ outfit — she would never let her look slide THAT much because she wouldn’t want Don to see her any less than somewhat together. In previous eps, when she’s worn negligees/babydoll nighties, even they are a nod to his expectations of her.

      The dark suits of the office … wow, seemed a bit hamhanded to me. Very funereal [which of course was the point] but I didn’t think we needed that allusion rubbed in our faces overly. The gloom was already part of the mise-en-scene.

      Lovely recap as usual, TLo. Thank you so much again. :-)

      • judybrowni

        People simply didn’t wear sweats at home, in the ’60s. Not sweat pants, indoors or outdoors, they were only for sports, and certain sports at that.

        Yes, teenagers to wore sweatshirts (with college logos, for instance) for casual wear (not school wear).

        However, in the early ’60s ski wear –ski pants and parkas — were everyday casual wear for girls and women. for some reason. 

        • judybrowni

          As well as ski sweaters.

          • http://www.facebook.com/people/Sally-Barry/100000202371996 Sally Barry

            I remember wheat colored jeans for some reason.  I had a pair, beige printed with tiny navy blue flowers.  And bell bottom jeans!  We haven’t seen any bell bottoms!  Are they considered too bohemian or declasse for the Mad Men folk?  The rather upper-crust Megan dresses much like Mary Tyler Moore did playing Laura Petrie on Dick Van Dyke….One more thing:  there was a fad for big hairy scratchy mohair sweaters, speaking of sweaters.  Every other girl in my class had one over her white shirt (way too hot to wear for me!)

            • ybbed

              I think it is too early for bell bottoms, more like 1969-1970 ish.
              And I had a pair of goldish bell bottoms too, really thin stripes, like gold, white, green something like that.

            • Lilithcat

              Oh, heck, no, it’s not too early.  I was wearing bell bottoms in college – fall, 1965.  Wide wale corduroy.  Horizontal wale.  Oy.  I’m so embarrassed.

            • formerlyAnon

               I was with you till you got to horizontal! Mine were a plum/purple color, if that makes up for it!

            • ybbed

              I don’t know, I started junior high in 65 and nobody was wearing bellbottoms yet

            • Lilithcat

              That may reflect the difference between junior high school and college, or perhaps geography.  I went from one major city (Chicago) to another (New York).

            • Sweetbetty

               I agree on the geographical effect.  I live in a small town and I can remember the first time I saw someone here wearing true bell-bottoms.  It was a girl I had gone to school with and another girl who had gone full-bore hippie with wide bells in wide stripes, different patterned tops, furry vests, long unkempt hair, the whole bit.  This would have been maybe ’67 or ’68.  It was a while after that before I started seeing others in town following that trend. 

            • ybbed

              I don’t know, I started junior high in 65 and nobody was wearing bellbottoms yet

            • Melissa Brogan

                Keep in mind we haven’t even really gotten to the ‘summer of love’ yet – we’re in Feb 1967, and that was summer of ’67. They’ll move from high fashion to hippie wear in this year, but I don’t know if they’re really Megan’s style, and no one else is so au courant. So unless we see some hippie action, or maybe Sally wearing them, I’m not sure how they’ll fit in yet.

        • sarahjane1912

          Interesting. Wearing ski wear as ‘everyday casual wear’ must have had something to do with living in a cold climate. I know that women of my parents’ generation would never had worn such things — with a median temp of 25C pretty much year-round, why would they?! — and that ski gear was only worn for skiing trips [and packed away in plastic/mothballs the rest of the time]. Thanks for the info though.

    • AuntieAnonny

       I’d like to just thank you two, the Mad Men recaps, and Mad Style posts, are just incredibly well thought out and a bit eye-opening to someone like me, who never catches 100% of the story. On more than a few occasions I’ve said “Oh my god they’re so right..” out loud while reading your posts. It’s really quite fascinating, and IMO, makes the show even more enjoyable.

    • boleyn28

      Here are a few bulletpoints…………………..

      *Sally is wearing the 2 things Don forbid her to wear, when she sneaks out with Glen…….#1.make-up     #2white boots. (Don forbid it during the Codfish Ball ep.)

      *Sally looks to be mimicking Megans coffeehouse outfit when she sneaks out, they both wore go go boots

      *Sally seems to have 2 pairs of the same slippers or was that  a never before heard of set f*%@k up?

      *Rebecca Price’s rope detail on her dress pulled in the story that Lane will hang himself.

      *Even Megan’s dress was black, tying in the darkness and sadness in the color scheme as TLo has mentioned.

      *Sally didnt seem to want Don to join them for coffee, her snarky remark about him not wanting to go cause of work was a pure mix of retro Don and Betty fights, which has obviously effected her social skills and her attitude. 

      • fitzg

        Re Sally’s slippers:  My daughter (age 5) splits time exactly 50/50 between me and her dad.  She has a full wardrobe at both places so that all she has to travel with is her bookbag.  Sometimes we shop at the same places, and since she has definite opinions (mostly involving pink, purple, and sparkles), sometimes she winds up with two of the same pieces at both places.  Also, since she’s customarily dressed when she arrives somewhere, sometimes something my ex buys her winds up in my rotation and vice versa . . .

        • boleyn28

          I grew up in a split home as well but I definatly didnt have 2 of everything, usually I would have to pack for the weekends at my dads. I think the fact that they really emphasize the fact that Sally has 2 of everthing or a wardrobe at both houses really shows how wealthy both families are, which was probably the point as to why they put her in the same slippers. There are no accidents in wardrobes on Mad Men : )

    • boleyn28

      Betty would faint if she ever heard the conversations that Sally hears from Megan and her friends, probably more cause its not lady like then the vulgarity from it. Its interesting to note Megans friend was talking about her lady parts and Sally is having an important moment with hers, I dont think that was a coincidence.

      • Sweetbetty

         Also that some guy had asked if all her hair was red.  Red.  Red pubic hair.  Red blood in Sally’s panties.

        • boleyn28

          There was also a lot of red pops of color throughout the episode in clothes, accessories, set accessories, ect.

    • Logo Girl

      Glenn’s parka. Every other grown man and teenage boy had THAT parka between 1967 and 1977. My English teacher in 1975 had one. No idea why I remember that.

      • cmb92191

        I’m a 40 plus aged woman, and I even had that COAT.  Don’t know why.. but my sister and I both had one.  She had a red one and mine was navy blue.   I know our family had some very lean years-so it may have come from a well meaning neighbor or a church lady. Or maybe my father just got them for us.  He worked at a Jamesway (remember them?) for a while,so it just could have been on the discount rack or a damaged return.   Looking back, I’m sure they were boys coats, but that was ok with me.

      • SportifLateBoomer

        Plenty of girls had that parka too. We called them snorkel coats (because of how you could pull the fur-trimmed hood up and around your face like an old school snorkel mask).  I coveted it so, especially the cropped version that came along later.

        In the mid-70s with a snorkel, and marshmallow shoes (which I never got either — anyone remember them?), teens would have been at the height of fashion in my part of the US.

        But I digress, while going forward in my nostalgia.

        • Liverpoolgirl

          My neighborhood had snorkel coats and moon boots!  Hideous but all the rage.

      • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

        Big flashback moment for me.  The first guy I dated wore that coat (1974-75).
        I thought the bits of orange in Sally’s dress called to the lining, underscoring her friendship with Glen.

      • Cymc

        My husband called it a snorkel coat.

        • Kathleen Gillies

          My brothers and I had that coat.  I think they sold them at Sears. And those boots that had the removable inside liner/insulator that came out every time you took them off and you couldn’t get it back in again without pulling a bread bag over your liner covered foot. They had black plastic/rubber base with nylon at the ankle with a drawstring at top.  No zipper, no buckle, pull on snow boots. We were also lucky recipients of the Sears toughskins pants that featured reinforced knees. I had to wear the hand me downs. We were poor I guess.

    • stoprobbers

      The picture of Lane with the one glasses lens. Oh, my heart.

    • msdamselfly

      I thought Sally’s first hairstyle was mimicking Megan’s red-headed friend, who she had just lunched with and whose talk about the opposite sex gave her the idea to call Glenn.

    • Lilak

      Looking forward to Betty losing the yellowy “old bruise” discoloration of the “fat” makeup — found it especially distracting in this episode.

      The first actual sob I choked back was the moment Lane broke his glasses.  (And the tears started with all the so true-to-life stuff that played on Joan’s face from the moment she couldn’t open Lane’s office door.  Gilt-edged kudos to Miss Hendricks.)

      • suzq

        Off topic, but Matt Weiner had the crew test whether they could open the door if Lane was hanging on the other side.  He was in a harness, so no actual Jered Harrises were harmed in the making of this episode.

    • judybrowni

      Don forbid the go go boots and makeup as several years too “old” for Sally, so of course she’s going to wear them on a “date” with Glen, testing out being an older teen.

      Joan’s black dress doesn’t seem as skin tight as her earlier wear, and she appears more matronly in it.

      Gold roses: money.

    • Groucho_Marks

      I think Glenn was wearing his school uniform.  My husband went to an all boys boarding school in Connecticut during the 70s, and he dressed much like Glenn.  In this day and age, the thought of attending high school sporting a coat and tie boggles the mind.

      • cmb92191

        My dad went to a public high school in NJ (now it is an inner city district).  There are pictures of him and his brother in coats, ties, dress shoes and jackets just attending class.  My dad went until 1966/1967 and my uncle goes back further into the 50’s.  My father in law graduated from a public high school in 1946 or 1947 and all those pictures are suits and ties also.

        • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

          My dress code was relaxed for high school in the 70s, but my 1960s grade school (both were public schools) required the boys to wear ties (they were usually clip-on bowties), color-coded for weekly assembly.  The only time girls could wear pants was if the temperature dropped below 20 degrees F, though that rule was relaxed once we reached the seventh grade.

        • Susan Crawford

          As I recall, a lot of NYC public schools – and ALL private schools in NYC and elsewhere – had uniforms like Glenn’s. Or else dress codes that required white shirts, a tie and jacket and lace-up leather shoes. Hotchkiss, being a fairly prominent prep school, had a crested blazer.

          We had a dress code at my all-girl’s college – looking back, it seems both hilarious and infuriating. And the very next year after my graduation, they dropped the whole silly thing. That would ave been academic year ’67/’68, so I look forward to the coming of bell-bottoms, psychedelia, wide-ties and “the peacock look” for men. We got a hint of it a few episodes back with the openly gay potential client in his pastel-striped jacket, but it will be fun to bring on the Peter Max/Sgt. Pepper look in some way, no?

          Roger will be shocked – SHOCKED!

    • g_mo

      Well alright then! Scanning through this season’s Mad Style posts has confirmed that it is a complete fabrication on my part. Joan’s worn her brooches on the left all season. Nevermind!

      • Leslie Stevenson

        It’s much easier to fasten a brooch on the left side if you are right handed.

    • http://twitter.com/GaraStJames Gara St. James

      Great point on the dress Rebecca is wearing matching the room’s decor and the wraith-like nature. I’m surprised, though, that you didn’t comment on the design on the sweater, which resembles octopus tentacles. Perhaps a subtle comment on how, despite her efforts to cheer up Lane, she was actually bringing him down further?

    • Jenny66

      In the screen shots of Sally watching TV, the Draper TV appears to be a flatter-screened wall-mounted model. Did those exist back then? I thought all television sets from that period were boxy models that you set on a TV stand.

      • SewingSiren

        I think it’s built into the wall.

      • cmb92191

        I had a beautiful post about this earlier, and it got lost in the TLO innerspace.  Anyway, to have a color built in TV with a remote was super high tech and extremely expensive. My in laws had quite a few things built in to thier home (60’s perspective) but most of them were of the kitchen and bathroom variety- such as intercom, sub zero fridge the same color and wood grain as the cabinets, blender and things in the bar like a wine cooler and mini fridge. 

        My FIL’s TV was one of those massive piece of furniture console TV until like 2003 or 2004 while it finally died.  He bemoaned the fact that he was loosing his “furniture”.  I think he got the TV in mid 60’s- even before I was born.

        I think the table top TV were more early 60’s- Season one or two Midge got one and Don threw it out the window.

        • CozyCat

          Rember those beautiful cabinets that record players used to come in?  With the turntable on one side and the LP storage on the other?  We had a gorgeous one in our living room when I was growing up.

          • http://howtofaint.tumblr.com/ How to Faint

            My grandparents had this crazy version in their guest bedroom that was an armoire with a television in the middle and a turntable on top. The bottom part were the speakers. I loved that thing and cried when they finally got rid of it in the nineties (because that’s how long it took for the damn thing to finally break beyond repair).

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1129137319 Paula Pertile

      That blue dress of Betty’s makes me scream. What an uncomfortable thing to wear around the house – a belted dress? Especially if you’re packing a little extra around the middle. I don’t know, maybe its just me.

      I wore lots of those ski-wear outfits back in the day, and the pants were always ‘ski-pants’ – form fitting, heavy leggings type things with a stirrup at the bottom, and a raised ‘seam’ detail down the front. They zipped up the side. Its notable that Betty’s are cut looser.

      What’s with Bert Cooper’s pocket square? Its all pointy. I never noticed that before, and wouldn’t have if it wasn’t included in the screen caps here. And his bow tie matches Joan’s dress. (Unless that’s just the lighting in the picture.)

      I never questioned Lane being in his 3-piece until you mentioned it. How even more heartbreaking it makes it all, somehow. 

      Thank you for the excellent wrap-up, as always.

      • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

        I’ve always seen Bert with a four-point hanky.  Most of the time Roger wears a three-point, but sometimes its’ flat across.

        • Susan Crawford

          I’ve noted this, too. Bert’s hanky looks almost like a crown – an indication, perhaps of his status as a “founder” and reigning symbol of SCDP history. (I absolutely love Bert – I’d like to see more of him, frankly, because his character can really add some spice – and often surprise – to the doings at SCDP).

          • Glammie

            I think Matt Weiner loves Bert, too.  I mean, both he and Roger should have died or retired, but the actors are so wonderful that I think Weiner can’t bear to let them go.  I love Bert too, though it’s really weird when I think of Robert Morse being the antic lead in *How to Succeed in Business without really Trying.”  J. Pierpont Finch, of course, becomes head of the company through *advertising*.  I’ve always thought there was just a bit of an in-joke there.

            • Susan Crawford

              I never thought about that, Glammie, but now that you mention it, I wouldn’t be surprised that Weiner is making a reference to Morse’s iconic, award-winning role. Great catch!

            • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_YAMNQMUGFM4NNSPAQLZRODSD5I Angela

               I saw him on stage way back in the day, with Carol Channing, in the late 70’s burlesque revival, Sugar Babies. Bobby Morse was just so all-around talented, singing, dancing, et al, kind of like Dan Radcliffe is today – wonder if he’ll still be working 40+ years from now?

            • Glammie

              Funny thing is, Robert Morse was pretty too high energy and too quirky to really succeed in film.  As Bert, though, he’s kind of got it all under control and gives a great focused and quiet performance.  Subtle, terrific delivery–never see him overact.  So even though I know it’s him, I never see J. Pierpont Finch peeking out of Bert Cooper.

            • Girl_With_a_Pearl

              I caught that joke.  :)  I thought that the casting of Robert Morse in Mad Men was absolutely brilliant on Matt Weiner’s part, both stories being about offices in the 1960s.  Robert Morse does whatever it takes (but in a humorous manner) and steps over anyone who gets in his way as do many of the characters in Mad Men.     

              I’ve wondered if the set design in the movie version influenced the set designers for Mad Men.  I read that the more recent Daniel Radcliffe version was in turn influenced by Mad Men’s set.  I did catch the Daniel Radcliffe version, which was fun and filled with very excited Harry Potter fans. 

    • Sisyphus .

      I think the pattern on Rebecca’s dress isn’t rope, but pheasant feathers — quite pretty. I’d want to wear that if it didn’t remind me of Lane’s suicide.

      • suzq

        I think you’re right.  It’s a stunning dress.  Harkens to the English hunt and probably reminds her a bit of home.

    • judybrowni

      Megan’s red haired friend (and her curtains match the drapes reference) note that her red hair is picked up by the orange in the border of her dress and the orange hair like strokes on the dress fabric.

      Ick.

    • fnarf

      Jack LaLanne! One of my most enduring memories of this period — I’m closer to Bobby’s age than Sally’s, but I was there — is sitting and watching TV I had no interest in just because it was on. Not like today with DVR and On Demand and 250 channels! If you didn’t like it, you watched it anyways; I couldn’t stand Jack LaLanne, but I watched, because maybe Concentration or Let’s Make a Deal was on next. How I lived for those bogus “sick” days sitting in front of the game shows.

      • Laylalola

        I’m a child of the late 70s and early 80s and your post me laugh remembering how Wheel of Fortune and the Price is Right seemed so indulgent on sick days. 

        • Ksagun13

          We were big fans of $20,000 Pyramid as well.  And I remember the early days of Wheel of Fortune, with the original host and the winner of each round shopping for prizes.  

          • greenwich_matron

            The Wheel of Fortune phrase “Giorgio gift certificate” is permanently engraved in my brains cells

            • hellkell

               OMG, remember when Wheel made winners buy stuff out their craptastic showrooms instead of giving them the cash?

    • greenwich_matron

      I think that the show hit a wrong note with Betty’s ski clothes. The sweater screams 1980s to me with the waist ribbing, chunky yarn, and the drop sleeves. It is much more likely that she would have worn something longer with raglan sleeves and possible fair isle. It also wouldn’t have been made of a finer yarn. Also, no matter how conscious she is about her weight, I find it really hard to believe that she wouldn’t wear stretch pants.

      The Betty of previous season would have been much more concerned with finding the right hat and sunglasses and looking like Catherine Deneuve that she would have been with something as prosaic as keeping warm.

      • cmb92191

        I agree with you.  I had quite a few ski sweaters like that in the early 80’s.

      • sarahjane1912

        I think the sweater hits the right note, and my mum certainly had ski sweaters that looked like that in the ’60s; cream with contrasting mock fair isle patterns radiating from the neck down. As for the stretch pants, well, she’s not on the slopes YET, so I totally accepted that these were trousers she was wearing for the trip TO the holiday, not the ones she might wear while skiing. She’s also a matron now, not a trophy wife; that said, I do hope/think Betty might get back ‘on trend’ for the time when she’s trimmed down a bit.

        • greenwich_matron

          This sweater has the ribbing done on a smaller needle and a substantial stitch increase above the ribbing. Very 80s and wildly unflattering. I bet your mum’s sweaters didn’t grab at the waist and blouson to the hip the way Betty’s does. I can’t imagine any incarnation of Betty wearing those trousers around the house. 

          Also, when I started knitting, my mom kept begging me to let her teach me how to make set in sleeves because she couldn’t stand the “bad home ec project” look I was sporting.

          • sarahjane1912

            Again — as I’ve [hopefully] often pointed out on these threads, happy to be advised and informed on numerous style points, especially given that neither I — nor my mother — were raised in the US. Aussie upbringing with a strong sense of English sensibility; that’s where I am coming from, but oh wow, it’s so great to learn about the details of fashion and how fashion was put together. 

            Really scratching my head here … but I have to insist that Betty’s jumper/sweater WAS very much in line with what my own mother wore at the time, although she possibly wore things more streamlined to her figure [she was proud of it] rather than the blouson look Betty is sporting. 

            I hate Betty’s trousers — she looks like she’s going trout fishing — but if she’s sensitive about her weight, I still think she’d probably wear these rather than the skin-tight jobs, especially since she’s not at the snow yet; she’s just travelling there.

            Cheers though! :-)

            • greenwich_matron

              It’s the shape and it’s lack of streamlining that makes me think it’s 1980’s. The blouson thing only happens when the ribbing at the bottom is tight enough to fit around the waist. Looking at the fair isle and ribbing on the sleeve, it looks like there is a 25% stitch increase and it also looks like the ribbing was knitted on a smaller needle. To some extent the sleeve may need the increase to accommodate a fair isle or aran pattern, but it’s not necessary at the waist. This sometimes happens when a sweater shrinks or felts (the ribbing shrinks more than the body) but the fair isle stitch is so loose that I can’t imagine it shrunk.

              If you google “sweaters 1980s” you will see tons of sweaters like this, which were great for making even the tiniest bottom seem huge as the extra fabric bunched at the back waist and sloped down the sides, adding width and emphasizing the size of the area. The blouson volume had the added effect of making it look flat as well as huge. Shaker knit sweaters with high waisted jeans were notorious for this.

              Also, the drop sleeves had their heyday in the 80s, but before that they were relegated to “Learn to Knit” patterns. If Betty could knit that fair isle, she could knit a sleeve that didn’t have all that extra fabric at the armscye. The crappy shoulder seams, the lack of neck detail, and the loose gauge make it hard for me to believe that Betty picked this up at Lord and Taylor.

              My passion about this is surprising me. 

            • Ksagun13

              Maybe they couldn’t get hold of an authentic 60s ski sweater in the right color, and didn’t have time to knit one to order?  It takes a lot longer to knit a custom sweater than to sew a dress.  Just a thought.  

              I’m a knitter, so I see your point.  I’d have to look at some vintage sweater patterns to see the exact proportions.  Now that I keep looking at it, it does look very 80s.  

            • greenwich_matron

              I’m sure you’re right: the color ties in with the kitchen and it’s on screen for about 15 seconds. Besides, who knows? Maybe someone in Rye was knitting sweaters and 15 years ahead of her time (ugly, but precociously ugly!) 

              I could have whipped one up in a week if I didn’t sleep or eat. I love this show so much I would have done it, too.

            • Glammie

              A fair isle in a week?  Even in a big gage, I tip my less-deft needles to yours.

              I’m trying to think back . . . the sweater doesn’t scream 80s to me–I remember the 80s as the time of large-gage splashy patterned tunic sweaters.  And *shoulder pads*.  Hate shoulder pads–I have broad shoulders and I was always ripping out those things.  Went with that dropped sleeve.

              The ski sweaters I remember as a kid were knit a larger gage than other sweaters, but I don’t remember a large gage knit on top of a smaller gage long ribbed section.  The ski sweaters I remember from that period were longish, somewhat loose in the sleeves with a classic short rib on the bottom.  

              There was a transition in ski wear that was starting to happen in the late 60s–from heavy wool pants to the first insulated ones with a water-resistant outside.  Ski wear was also starting to get *brighter* in hue–less serious, more playful.

              In other words, you may well be right, I just don’t have an accurate enough sense of sweater silhouettes. 

            • greenwich_matron

              I remember several years ago Warren Miller (he made ski movies starting in the 50’s) wrote an article about women’s ski clothes and the decline of skiing. His argument was that skiing popularity took off when Maria Bogner invented stretch ski pants, and it declined when everyone started dressing like the michelin tire man. My mom (who skied rarely) had Jackie O, Audrey Hepburn, and Catherine Deneuve as ski chic role models. Mom wasn’t glamorous, but she would never have thrown on a dumpy sweater if she knew that she may bump into RFK in Vermont.

               I ski quite a lot, and I am happy if my helmet hair looks relatively clean apres ski.

            • Glammie

              I ski occasionally and don’t wear a helmet, but I also don’t pick up much in the way of speed.  Funny, the sleek pant option came back–all those shiny racing style pants, not sure the sport’s picked up in popularity, though all that freestyling stuff seems to have brought people in.

              My mom also had the black stretch pants–but by the early/mid 70s it made her look dated.  My father was serious retro and wore corduroy knickerbockers that were so old that they were kind of cool.   (Helped that he was an expert skier.)

            • greenwich_matron

              I can’t stop myself: Please wear a helmet! Natasha Richardson was standing still when she fell!

      • judybrowni

        I’m assuming Betty’s pants are baggy because she’s lost some of the weight. 

        But you’re right, otherwise she’d be in form-fitted stretch ski pants.

      • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_YAMNQMUGFM4NNSPAQLZRODSD5I Angela

         I think you’re right, because for upscale matrons like Betty, the Bohus was the sweater that was most popular, hand-knitted, from Sweden, and high priced! They are collector items today. I feel the gauge is too big for a 60’s style sweater.

    • magickat

      Tom and Lorenzo, your Mad Style posts really make my weeks much better. Thank you. It’s honestly something I look forward to every week during MM season. Thank you.

    • nycfan

      What, no mention of Don’s green sweater? I was surprised to see him take a sartorial leap toward a more mid 60s vibe and wondered if it was another hint that Don is getting his groove back.

      • nycfan

        Plus, it was the same shade of green as what appears to be Megan’s favorite sweater. Colors showing that they still go together or just that Megan bought him the more modern sweater?

    • UncleScar1114

      Along with the observation that Rebecca’s “deep red” coat “is ominous, evoking danger and blood,” I also think there’s a “red ink” angle here.   Lane’s problem is that he’s in the red, and Rebecca compounded that big-time by buing the Jag.  Also, besides Scarlet being “dressed in scarlet,” she also has a fiscal role in the partners’ meeting so there could be a red ink angle there – bad times are a-comin’.  

      • magickat

        Nice point!

      • Laylalola

        Though, TLo noted that basically all the partners were, uncharacteristically, in [the] black. ;) 

      • SMurphy104

         PLUS: when they cut to Roger and Don in the lobby at Dow, the cover of the magazine Roger is paging through features lots of red!!

    • allj

      Did anyone else notice that Don’s tie mimicked the colors and striping of Betty’s ski sweater when he was on the phone with her? I thought it was an interesting connection since they were dealing with mutual Sally issues in that scene.

      • ybbed

        and it also echoed Lanes suit and vest, shades of blue

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=2259327 Lana Goodrich

      On Sally’s hair – I thought it was sort of charming how it fell by the time she got the museum. No more curl or bounce. It’s like, she can pantomime being a grown-up, but she can’t quite make it stick. A phenomenal detail, I don’t know if someone else caught it already.

      • suzq

        Clearly, the girl needed some Aqua Net!

        • Susan Crawford

          Ah – Aqua Net! I can still smell it’s sweet., perfumey scent, and remember walking into ladies rooms filled with clouds of it as women touched up their beehives, poufs and flips! And then came Vidal Sassoon (may he rest in peace_ and the blunt cut . . . which required much less in hte way of hairspray. But without a few spritzes of Aqua Net, one’s ‘do became a don’t in short order through most of the sixties . . . and beyond.

          • http://howtofaint.tumblr.com/ How to Faint

            Aquanet was still a staple of cholas as late as the nineties. I remember seeing them whip out these massive cans in public bathrooms to spritz their big orange hair… It was hypnotic.

            • Susan Crawford

              Absolutely! And in the eighties, it was the “Mall Rats” with the big, teased-out bangs and curls who used it to get that all-important hair-height before outlining their lips with brown lip pencil. Misty, Aqua Net memories, eh?

            • http://howtofaint.tumblr.com/ How to Faint

              Oh, my god. That brown lip pencil. The sharpie eyebrows I could almost understand, because you don’t need your eyebrows smudging or even disappearing while you’re beating down the new girls into the gang, but what on earth could be gained from making your mouth look so grubby? Maybe it’s just a warpaint thing, not a beauty thing. I barely know my ass from an outhouse, much less cholo culture.

    • mom2ab

      Maybe I missed it before but I noticed Joan now has a bar tray in her office which I don’t think was there before.

    • Laylalola

      I don’t think Lane took more than the one check. I think the tragedy will be compounded by the fact that they’re in the black — they’ve just landed Jag, they’re probably going to land one or more product lines from Dow (and even if they don’t Don’s going after the massive accounts now). Lane had the industry’s bean counters’ highest respect. I just have this sense that if Lane could have waited one more day all his hard work would have paid off.   

      • Sweetpea176

        One more day wouldn’t have helped Lane, sadly.  He had already been caught, and had been asked for his resignation.  It was Lane’s financial situation that seemed to have lit a fire under Don to go for a big company like Dow.

      • Glammie

        No, he arranged for a $50K loan, passed it off as a profit and then arranged for bonuses for most of the staff and paid those out.  SCDP isn’t in the black ’til they get paid by Jaguar.  Meanwhile, Jaguar wants to shortchange them by going with a fee structure so that SCDP won’t get its usual 15 percent from media.  

        Lane left a lot of problems.  I’ll be curious to see what the books reveal.

    • greenwich_matron

      I loved that Sally wore the boots with that dress. There are so many things that I wore that mismatched because I wanted to show off the coolest thing I owned, and so many unflattering things I insisted on because that’s what seemed cool at the time.

      • formerlyAnon

         And, I kept doing those things (though I hope I improved somewhat) until my 30s. Sad but true.

        • Aurumgirl

          You’re not alone!

    • http://profiles.google.com/sara.e.munoz Sara Munoz

      I’d never noticed the Art Deco accents in Lane’s apartment. GORGEOUS. And I love the beige dress Rebecca is wearing.

    • SportifLateBoomer

      Oh Sally’s slippers…I’m a few years younger than she would be, and I totally had them. They were kind of sweaty, being vinyl and all.  I can hear them scuffing along, and how they sounded if you rubbed them together. I had that nightgown too. Big flashback.

      I still also have tons of those costume jewelry brooches that all the women wear, from my aunts and mother.

      I would totally rock Megan’s audition dress today, right now!

      As my handle infers, I’m toward the end of the baby boomers so it’s only
      now that things on MM are starting to look familiar to me from having
      lived through them, albeit as a child and through family photos.

      [I've been lurking here for a few months, but those slippers compelled me to step into my true Bitter Kitten-hood].

    • CassandraMortmain

      Since Megan has the most fabulous clothes, I’m happy every time she’s not barefoot in capri pants and a sweater and puts on something chic to go out and about in.  Love, love, love the new audition dress.  But the beige, white-trimmed coat seems all wrong for the season.  It looks like a spring duster and it’s clearly still winter, what with it snowing and all.  It doesn’t seem to fit her all that well and it’s very boxy and one of the most unflattering things I’ve seen her in.  It’s a rare misstep for Megan.

      Love Scarlet’s green dress, red nails and lipstick.  Also love her red coat and yellow hat.  She’s rocking the strong primary colors.  It really seems as if she’s going to be a much more important character going forward.  I would have guessed Rolger’s latest office conquest but she didn’t seem the slightest bit interested in him when he was hanging around her in his Hawaiian shirt.

      Still so sad about Lane.

      • ybbed

        is it a London Fog?

    • Glammie

      Joan’s dresses immediately made me think of tie patterns.  Last week, during her first meeting as a partner, her scarf was knotted and seemed to be striped like a tie.  Now she’s wearing tie colors with small tie-style patterns.

      Also, just looking at those stills of Lane and the post-hanging pictures of the hanging brought back just how disturbing those scenes were.  It was a very good episode, but I don’t know that I want to see it again.  Lane’s face is so naked without his spectacles–all that raw pain.  Funny, he kept his suit on, but he hated his glasses, didn’t he?  Hated being the unsexy dweeb in the specs.

      And, yes, his wife is dressed in a somewhat dated manner–they’ve both seen better days.  

      • Sweetpea176

        Lane’s breaking his glasses really hit me.  I’ve worn glasses since I was about 9 — I’ve always been very near-sighted, so I rely on them.  I don’t think I’d be safe to even leave the house without them.  His breaking them really spoke of finality to me — I won’t be needing these anymore/no turning back — to be destroying something that survival depends upon.

        • Glammie

          Myopic here as well–so the breaking the glasses was such a fascinating, disturbing touch.  The suicide wasn’t impulsive, it was very determined.  He didn’t want to be rescued.  He was going to be humiliated one more time–though, of course, the Jag proceeded to do a number on him.

          The glasses humiliated him . . . Jared Harris and his glasses deserve an Emmy.

    • http://profiles.google.com/sara.e.munoz Sara Munoz

      Yikes. That mirror with the gold leafing. Those things are so unflattering.

      • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_3KCDEX4FOTCFHZP6WLKSOOKUVM Danielle

        My grandmother still has that on a section of wall in her house.

    • ThaliaMenninger

      The go-go boots I coveted were much shorter, like mid-calf, with little tasseled zippers up the front. They were flats, too, not heeled like Sally’s. I may be thinking about what was popular earlier, like in 64. But those were the ones I wanted desperately in 1966 or 67, not the knee-high ones with 2-to-3-inch heels everybody was wearing with their knickers (“gaucho pants”) in about 72. (Just checked Nancy Sinatra and her “Boots Are Made for Walking” video from 1966 to see if her boots were high or low. Knee-high, with a stiletto heel. The background dancers doing their go-go thing have short boots, like mid-calf, also with stiletto heels. Interesting.)

      Sally’s pointed collar, dropped-waist dress with a tiny print, and the flip hairdo are on the money with my recollections of 67, though. I was 11 that year and this is exactly the kind of thing I was wearing.

      And Rebecca’s hairdo looks like every teacher I had in the 60s, as well as all the moms in the Mothers Club (predecessor to the PTA) luncheon pictures. Flips, shoulder-length or chin-length “pageboys,” long hair with Tammy Wynette poofs, and the short, styled hair like Rebecca’s were everywhere.

      I blanched a little seeing the mirror tiles Sally is looking at her reflection in. My (totally uncool, totally not NY or rich) parents had that same mirrored wall with the smoky things in it in it in their harvest gold living room circa, again, 69 or 70. I suppose that’s the time that kind of trend would’ve made it to Middle America.

      • http://www.facebook.com/people/Sally-Barry/100000202371996 Sally Barry

        We weren’t allowed pants at all, if it was cold, we wore them under our skirts and took them off at school along with our boots.  Wouldn’t you know it, the year after I graduated pants were allowable for girls to wear  >:-( 

        • http://www.facebook.com/people/Sally-Barry/100000202371996 Sally Barry

          (Sorry about the pants comment, I’m newish to the computer and it should have gone somewhere else earlier.)

          Now about those WHITE BOOTS – that’s a point of contention with me.  I had mid-calf flat heeled white go-go boots, and that was THE white go-go boot style as far as I’m concerned.  I was told that, Nancy Sinatra notwithstanding, the boots I had were cheap-o things turned out for the mass market, to cash in on the fad.  I was also told that Nancy Sinatra’s boots, and Sally’s white boots, were ‘the real thing’, were more expensive designer boots, dressier.  Megan would have bought only the best boots for Sally, not the cheap mid-calf knockoffs.  So I dunno.  But the knee high white boots do not look right to me, at all.

          • ThaliaMenninger

            The short ones with the zipper may’ve been ripped off with cheap imitations, but the originals were totally mod Carnaby Street designer boots. Mary Quant? (Wikipedia says Courreges did them first and then Mary Quant. So maybe Paris, not Carnaby Street.) But I’m with you, THOSE were the go-go boots of the moment, not the knee-high ones.

            We weren’t allowed pants at school, either. I remember paying 50 cents (to charity) to buy a ticket to participate in the special Girls Wear Pants Day in junior school. I think 1970 was the first year the dress codes went out the window and girls could wear pants to school any time they wanted.

            • Sweetbetty

               I’m with you both; go-go boots, to me, were calf-high, flat, and not form-fitting.  I never had a pair (couldn’t talk my parents into them) but many of my female mid-60s HS classmates did.  And there was no wearing pants either.  In grade school we’d do the pants-under-Catholic school uniform jumper when it was cold but in junior high and high school we were much too cool to commit such a fashion faux pas.  Skirts were short then and I walked the six blocks to school and my mom used to have a fit that I’d go out with those bare legs in the bitter PA cold.   

            • ybbed

              I remember when pants were allowed here in California, I was in tenth grade and it was 1968.  Many girls just started wearing pants because the weather had cooled in the fall, and the administration or school board relented and said “oh fine, wear pants”. yeah!!!

              And… I had the go go boots in seventh grade, 1965, mid calf

            • holdmewhileimnaked

              theyre the go go end of the space age/atomic stuff so they definitely begin w/ courrèges or cardin. then they hang around for a couple of years & are gone by the time psychedelia arrives.

          • holdmewhileimnaked

            ibid. i hadnt seen this comment before i wrote mine or i wouldve stuck it in here someplace. no, the knee high ones were not cooler. not then. possibly before, definitely after. but for mid-60s coolness realness you want the ones you guys are all discussing. absolutely. & theyre definitely not just mass market–theyre really hard to find. believe me, were they that ubiquitous, i’d have sold many a pair by now–even though theyre not my favorite style. i like the quintessential, the iconic–that makes up a great deal of what i sell. & i havent sold one pair. so theres that.

          • sononagal

            Sigh – I had my first go go boots in 1967.  They were….hold your breath…..olive green leather.  I mean, at seven years old I was WERQ.  I LOVED them.  I also had a brown vinyl jacket I wore with them.

          • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=720946720 Carolyn Smrcka

             I’ve collected 60’s vintage for years and was a costume designer what I know of 60’s fashion is this: there were many iterations of the Go Go boot; they were fashionable off and on for ten years or so so of course they evolved.  The shorter flared ones with the small heel way in the back, were knock offs of the first Cardin boots, and I assume they were pretty popular ( wore a pair of them in the 80’s for years – they were vinyl of fairly decent condition), but in the 60’s there were REALLY cheap knock offs which I don’t think held up well otherwise we’d see a lot more of them around still considering how popular they were. Then the styling on them changed along with the times and they moved up the leg, but had that same small heel ( see this article for pictures http://coololdstuff.com/gogoboots.html) and then they started doing that chunkier heel with the taller shaft.
            The boots were so cool during that period and I hate the boots that you can buy now that are called Go Go boots because they are SO WRONG and SO UGLY – there was NEVER a Go Go boot so ugly at that time; that heel is an ATROCITY.  And yet, because those are the go to cheap costume boot for the halloweener/costume partier, everyone thinks that’s what go go boots are.  I have had about 30 pairs of vintage go go boots over the years (which is a feat as I wear a 10) and they are VERY hard to find.  Much harder over the last 10 years – they were on ebay a lot and now they rarely are.

            • sweetlilvoice

              As a fellow size 10 shoe girl, I am impressed! Vintage shoes never fit me. Vintage clothes do sometimes. I’m just not sized right…

          • Liverpoolgirl

            I had a pair of white almost patent leather look go go boots in 1972.  They went up to my knee.  I loved those boots.

          • ChristOnACracker

            Yes, Sally Barry. That’s my recollection as well:flat-heeled, mid-calf white go-go boots. Not the long, tall Sallys on this episode. 

      • holdmewhileimnaked

        yep, i agree w/ you about the boots. i kept looking & looking at the photo cos it looked so wrong. the boots should be low mid-calf, no heels, maybe a zipper up the inside or up the back. the color is right. i believe the originals were either courrèges or cardin.

        my guess is that they made them nearly knee-high & heeled cos the lower ones just dont have that va-va-voomitude. they wouldnt have worked for the story so well. so they fudged a little & threw in some nancy sinatra where it really didnt quite belong. even her stilettos–i have a pair around here, getting ready to sell them–were a little more stage gear & a lot less something everyone wore. i know this for a variety of reasons, i guess paramount among them is how much i love stiletto heeled boots & how hard they are to find.

        otoh, the boots w/ gauchos [i also love gauchos, have more than one or two pairs getting ready to be put up for sale. one is part of a lilli ann suit, another is bill blass.....]? woulda probably had a higher heel & that heel probably woulda been platform. i guess it depends–my family was LA, not rich by any means but definitely industry [my mother was therapist to the wack stars, my father was one of the people who cut the monkees, among other things]–so maybe i’m thinking of here. & my first real memories are from around the time of gauchos & platforms–when the world was young & brave, i guess, full of innocence, fewer deaths, more depth, less sorrow–so, anyway, i’m most likely remembering just what i saw.

        i agree w/ you about the hair.

        • Sweetbetty

           ” my father was one of the people who cut the monkees”
           What does that mean?

          • holdmewhileimnaked

            cut=edited.
            he was a film editor.

    • http://twitter.com/Elissa_Malcohn Elissa Malcohn

      For the past few shows, I’ve thought Don’s and Pete’s ties were similar.  This week I think they’re identical except that the stripes on Don’s are narrower.

    • http://www.facebook.com/people/Sally-Barry/100000202371996 Sally Barry

      The design on Rebecca’s pale dress look like pheasant feathers to me.  I distinctly remember shopping with my mother and picking out new sheets for my bed, when I was in high school, and the set I liked also had a feather pattern on a beige background.  They were (discounted) designer linens!  Wish I could remember the name…

      • margaret meyers

        I love that knit set Rebecca is wearing.  I feel that both this outfit and the red set look new, like Rebecca has been spending money and the Pryces are in more trouble than we know.  The matching coat and dress are not new in style but then Rebecca is a middle-aged woman and her style sense, the clothes she might splurge on to feel good about herself, might be something that was stylish in 1957, not 1967.  The red dress and fur-trimmed matching coat are exactly what a wealthy wife would have worn in London in the 1950s.

        • Twinzilla

          But what I really love is how out of place the Pryce’s apartment is.  I suppose the set people thought it out carefully, but I see all that art deco stuff and the 30’s English upholstered furniture (built to last!) to be too old for the Pryces.  Their children are in their early teens, so maybe they married in 1950 and started buying household furnishings then.  Their brought-over furniture might have been old-fashioned (especially when compared to Don’s household) because rationing in England continued for almost 10 years after the war ended, but I don’t think it would have been THIS old fashioned. I suppose the set decorators might be overstating for effect.

    • http://www.youtube.com/user/toodleskitty79?feature=guide AWS

      God and Goddess bless you TLo…

    • AutumnInNY

      In the split screen shot above of Sally and Betty I can’t help but think how well Kiernan is cast. Not only is she an excellent young actress but her resemblance to both January and Jon as she’s grown up on the show is strikingly evident.

    • http://twitter.com/nishizono Nishizono

      I haven’t read all the comments, so I don’t know if anyone else has
      mentioned this, but Pete’s black suit from his conversation with Joan
      strikes me as being even more important in light of Lane’s death. Pete
      was wearing that uncharacteristically black suit when he kicked off the
      Joan-as-a-prostitute situation, which led to the lack of bonuses for the
      partners, which resulted in Lane knowing he couldn’t pay back what he’d
      stolen. That didn’t directly cause his resignation and subsequent
      suicide, since Don would have fired him anyway, but it’s still a thread
      (no pun intended) that followed through to this episode.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=38300521 Jenna Scott

      Also, Scarlet’s green dress is a parallel to the green dress we saw on Joan at the end of the last episode, an echo of how she is stepping into Joan’s role.

    • http://www.facebook.com/people/Andrew-Rodriquez/100001053090764 Andrew Rodriquez

      I feel like Joan’s hair was much more casual and what not. Or atleast not as done up in this episode as others, making her seem soft and unprepared for what was to come. But that’s just me. 

      • Lilithcat

        I think it’s been softer this whole season.

        • margaret meyers

          But she still isn’t wearing it down, as Megan does.  Joan is in a little bit of a time warp.  Her “B 52″ body is just not made for the Mod fashions, and she knows it. How does she make herself look a bit more modern and with it? 
          Gad, I said “with it!” 

          • greenwich_matron

            I remember Raquel Welch and Brigitte Bardot as being the busty sex symbols when I was young. They weren’t nearly as curvy as Joan.

            • Sweetbetty

               Joan fits in more with Sophia Loren and those who tried to copy her.

    • Scarlet39

      I’m not liking all the patterns Joan is wearing this season.  I much preferred the solid columns of color she was wearing in earlier seasons.  The patterns seem kind of matronly to me.  Maybe it’s because I’m looking at it through 2012 eyes

    • Liverpoolgirl

      Don driving=Don distressed.  He drives Glenn back to school because he cannot bear to tell Megan that Lane has committed suicide.  Allowing Glenn to drive and fulfill his wish “to do anything you want” relieves some of the pain of Lane’s death if only temporarily.  We haven’t seen Don doing a lot of driving this season other than the Howard Johnson debacle but this last scene hailed back to the misery in Ossining where Don ran from his wife rather than to her when it hit the fan.

      • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_3KCDEX4FOTCFHZP6WLKSOOKUVM Danielle

        It reminded me of when he was having the affair with Sally’s teacher and he drove her brother up to Massachusetts for the job she got him that she didn’t take.  He wanted to help her take care of him in part because he felt guilty for shutting out his own brother who then hung himself.

        • Liverpoolgirl

          I thought so too. Don always feels unattached but never more so than in his car. I think it is hard for him to be too close to people. Look at the whole Peggy problem. I wonder what Megan will do when she finds out he left with Glenn and didn’t tell her about Lane.

          • 3hares

            I don’t think Megan would have a problem with that. Don said he would tell her about his day when he came home and he probably will.

    • M N

       The shot of him in the background while Megan is on the phone is SO “The Graduate.”

    • M N

      Glen’s coat was called a “Bench Warmer” with toggle closures.  Very haute.

    • http://www.facebook.com/people/Jane-Morris/1076502799 Jane Morris

      For the record: eyeglasses are from the prop department, not wardrobe, as are watches.  They come at you with a tray from which to choose.

    • M N

       The “Go-Go” boots I wanted at Kinney’s were ‘cankle’ high.  My mom prohibited them as I had “weak ankles” and was forced to wear saddle shoes throughout my Catholic school years.  The notion of wearing knee-high boots was reserved for the mature girls.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_2CNDPMVO4W23R5TVC2QMTJ5BZE Heather

       Yes! Wasn’t it described as ‘Titian Red’ or something similar? Of course it couldn’t just be ‘strawberry blonde’.

    • teensmom99

      I think Betty’s clothes are sort of supposed to be stuck in an earlier era.  She’s kind of WASPy suburbs–nothing daring, a politician’s wife–and of course there’s the weight gain (though she seems to be losing).  And I LOVE Lane’s wife’s dress in the 2nd scene.  So elegant.

    • boleyn28

      PLEASE HELP ME ANSWER THIS QUESTION!!!!!!!!!!!

      What is it that Roger said after they found the resignation letter?  He sais…”It’s a resignation letter,…….,” then he sais something else. It sounds like he’s saying spoiler plate but I know thats not it.

      PLEASE IF ANYONE KNOWS THE ANSWER RESPOND ASAP, IT IS DRIVING ME CRAZY TRYING TO FIGURE IT OUT,LOL. 
                                                                                                      THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP : )

      • LJ39

        I think he said it was “boilerplate”

      • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_3KCDEX4FOTCFHZP6WLKSOOKUVM Danielle

        He said it was Boiler Plate.

        It means standard with no frills or extras.

      • leemm7

        He called it “boiler plate” which means that it’s basically a form letter.

    • boleyn28

      Its interesting that Don has no problem sharing his problems with Megan as a way to win or stop a fight ( like when Megan was giving him shit and he told her about Lane being fired) but when there is no shit to dig himself out of he doesnt share his stresses and sadness. It’s typical Draper behaviour, he used to do that with Betty all the time as well.

      • greenwich_matron

        I read somewhere that a common coping method among abused children is to avoid all contact as much as possible and create a big, cathartic scene when they realize they are in the abuser’s crosshairs. 

    • boleyn28

      I know this isnt relevant to this episode but its a good question……
      Why does Don have such a huge problem when Betty wore a bikini (he called her desperate) but when Megan wore one he didnt seem bothered at all. Double Standard Don!

      • greenwich_matron

        Your right. I wonder how he’ll feel when she stars naked in “Hair.”

        I want Don and Megan to have serious problems because I find the scum-ball-philanderer to evolved-devoted-husband character arc to be way too much. Men are only cured “by the love of a good woman” in romance novels.

        • http://www.facebook.com/people/Angie-Perna/100002190776642 Angie Perna

          Bitter much, matron?

          • formerlyAnon

            Realistic?

            Some people, men & women, change decades-entrenched behavior patterns. But it’s not the way to bet.

    • leemm7

      Great article in San Francisco Chronicle today – and it’s a love letter to T&L!

      http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2012/06/08/DD551OTRPK.DTL

    • lgunn

      Sally looked adorable for her little date. I loved the fact that she finally got to wear the boots. Our little girls is growing up. As far as Megan, I loved the new audition dress. The black and white is striking together. I am not so sure about the coat on closer inspection I didn’t like it but it looked good from afar. As far as Joan I noticed her dresses are a little fancier since she made partner. I absolutely loved the black dress with the tuquoise flowers. I think it was in the last episode or the one before.

    • ChristOnACracker

      I knew only one girl at my jr. high who wore white go-go boots. I think of her whenever I think of white go-go boots, and when I think of white go-go boots, I think of her. But hers were cowboy-boot length. Yes, cankle high. Sally’s were much higher. Are Sally’s an anachronism, or does anyone from that era remember them being that tall?

      • http://www.facebook.com/people/Angie-Perna/100002190776642 Angie Perna

        For West Coast public grammar school girls (through 6th grade), knee high boots (and knee high socks) were very coveted.  Adults wore them also: my aunt’s pair was made of the softest leather’ after a long night out, they looked like discarded marshmallows on the closet floor! 

    • Sarah Michaels

      Great analysis, but I got excited I was going to see more pictures of the redhead’s outfit (does she have a name?). I’m so in love with that girl’s style.

    • Juliana616

      I “discovered” you guys during Project Runway days and forgot how fun and fabulous you truly are.  As a MadMen devotee, I am thrilled to rediscover you and your style blog.  Love, love, love it!

    • boweryboy

      Just finished Season 5 on Netflix and I did an audible gasp when Megan walked in wearing her new audition dress and coat.

      She’s serving up Andre Courreges realness – a sure costume indicator of her wealth.

    • Andrea Cárdenas

      Given all the given “loudness” of the womens’ wardrobe, the little turnabout that really caught my attention was Roger’s change from a gray to a black suit, ever since that whole “Joan’s deal with the devil” ordeal. Also, that red scarf with the white polka dots has been a crucial part of his outfits a few episodes back and I don’t know how to interpret what it really stands for.

    • nlpnt

      No love for Glen’s look?

      Seriously, JB managed to take something she had little choice in – a formal prep-school uniform is what it is, and public-school girls like Sally (then and?) now swoon over boys in them – and both play up Glen’s adolescent awkwardness and make him look Andy Rooney-rumpled at the same time.

      The shlubby synthetic coat’s a big part of this – it would be really hard to pull off this look (if that’s the right term for making someone not look good) with a currently-fashionable peacoat or Submarine-esque duffel, or for that matter a spring/fall version with nothing over the blazer.

    • Jenny R.

      How about the rope detail on Mrs. Pryce’s dress? That is some heavy foreshadowing.