PR: Ripping the Collections – Olivier

Posted on September 28, 2011

Precious Moments never got the chance during the competition to show the judges what he’s capable of. Or at least, what he prefers to do. He struggled mightily (to our eternal annoyance) with pretty much all the constraints of producing a garment in a gameshow setting and under gameshow rules. To our thinking, if he couldn’t get this collection right, then all his whining during the competition could be seen as cover for his lack of talent. He didn’t really hit anything out of the park, but he did show that he’s got a point of view and some worthy ideas.

 



That coat is gorgeous. We might have liked those pants but they’re too high and badly fitted. The top feels like an afterthought.


Another great jacket. Another not-so-great pair of pants. Another top that’s so much of an afterthought it doesn’t exist at all. Sure, you can send a model topless down a runway for effect, but if you’ve only got ten looks to show, it just feels half-assed.

Please don’t ask us to explain the crazy eyebrows.


A really cool vest and an almost imaginary dress.

Are you detecting a theme here? He’s great at jackets, coats, and vests and doesn’t seem to care much about anything else.


This is one of the sharper looks in the collection. We appreciate his use of leather in a lot of these looks but we don’t think he’s as skillful in the execution of it as he seems to think.


Another pretty great jacket, which we suppose is more of a top. For all his bitching on the show about having to fit non-model bodies, we can’t say his fit when working with models is anything to write home about. That sheer skirt looks awful and unfinished.


This would have been really great if it fit her better. We suppose at this point we could believe that this is his aesthetic, loosely fitted clothes, but we don’t think so. We just don’t think he knows how to fit.


We simply don’t believe this is a finished look. And if it is, the proportions are awful.


The pants are kind of cool in a (surprisingly) rock and roll sort of way, but just like his fit issues, we think his tendency to pair one showpiece with one half-assed piece is less about point of view and more about a collection that’s only half-finished.


Another pretty great look. We’re not crazy about the asymmetry of the hem, though and the skirt doesn’t fit in the opposite direction: it’s too tight.


Interesting, if kind of ugly top; half-assed skirt in an ugly fabric.

Does he have a point of view? Yes; a sort of minimalist attempt at a colorless avant garde. We can appreciate that, but the very same time management and fit issues highlighted during the competition are more than evident here. He’s got a great eye for designing jackets, coats and vests and perhaps he should continue pursuing that as his focus. But he really needs to learn how to master fit and tailoring. His work really suffers from the lack of it.

 

 

[Photo Credit: Getty]

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  • http://joyouslifesf.wordpress.com Kiltdntiltd

    The pleather skirts gave me fits where the zips stopped and the textile curled back under.  You can’t tell me the boy has never heard of facings.  Yeah some interesting ideas, poorly executed in terms of balance, fit and finish.

  • Anonymous

    Yes this is a disappointment. There are ideas but clearly his inexperience is showing. And let’s not even bother to discuss how ugly and wrong the styling is

    • Anonymous

      Ya know, I don’t find it disappointing at all. It’s about what I expected, so I’m not surprised it looks like it does.

      Besides, I would never be Oliv[i]er’s customer in this or any other era. 

      • Rand Ortega

        I think Oliv[i]er already has his customer: himself. The models were styled to look like him (especially the hair & eyebrows) the clothes are slightly modernized & idealized versions of what he wears.
        Our little “Precious Moments” is more transparent than he realizes.

        • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_EDI2DLE7DE3YPW2ONIHBWOVHMA ecallaw

          Oh, that’s hilarious.  It didn’t even occur to me that the models look just like him. Once you point it out it really hits you in the face.  Over and over.

        • alex

          That’s exactly what I thought! A procession of mini-Moments in half-assed clothes.

          • aimee_parrott

            Heh… mini-Moments.

          • Rand Ortega

            ROFLMAO!!!!!

        • Anonymous

          Right. His background in men’s clothes really came through when he made his models look very… well, like him. Remember when Mondo had the makeup artist put a mustache on his model? That would actually have been an improvement on this look. By a lot.

          • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_LDLNDAFFRCIWNXZFYTIE46OJWI Linda

            Yes, agree with the above, an odd attempt to desex women. Because women apparently are scary to him.

          • http://twitter.com/MandySCG MandyJane

            Well, women have breasts, scary scary breasts.

          • http://www.GiftedCollector.com Nancy Abrams

            It was surprising to see a sheer blouse that exposed the model’s BREASTS!. What an odd thing for him to do when he’s so afraid of them.

        • Warmheartedgirl Seattle

          Oh you are right!  I don’t know why I never saw that – the hair and especially the eyebrows are so distracting, but they ARE him!  Okay, now it REALLY reaches student work territory!

  • Anonymous

    The word fugly was invented to describe this collection.

    • Terence Ng

      I’d say that “pug fugly” is more appropriate here, but some of my best friends are pugs.

      • http://www.facebook.com/Cookie.Taz Aisa Ginger Jake Psenicnik

        I’m going with “fug bugly” because there really are no words for how dreadful the whole thing is. 

    • Anonymous

      Oh, I disagree that it’s fugly – though you have the right to think so. 2/3 of the clothes are terribly fitted and/or executed and I don’t love the color story, but I actively like several pieces and think that it’s possible to see the much more attractive vision behind the shitty execution.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_LCM5POTSHO74MUOQO6IAV4YUBE Jessica

    I realize you don’t want to talk about the eyebrows…but Frida Kahlo called, and she wants hers back.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_EDI2DLE7DE3YPW2ONIHBWOVHMA ecallaw

      How can there be a comparison to Frida without any unibrow? :)

      • MilaXX

        I’m thinking more Groucho Marx than Frida

        • aimee_parrott

          I was thinking Bert from Sesame Street — his is a unibrow too, but the approximate thickness and squareness of the eyebrows Oliv[i]er used is a pretty close match.

  • Anonymous

    The eyebrows are easy to explain:  they’re Olivierierio’s own eyebrows.

    • Anonymous

      Yes, that’s definitely what I thought too. And that explains a lot about his design strategy!

  • http://twitter.com/PhDKnitter marlie

    Almost everything is really boxy, which, I suppose, is really evident if the model does have a rail-thin body, so maybe that’s what he’s going for (?). Also, does anyone else think that the eyebrows on the models look a little bit like Ollie’s own?

    All said, I’m not impressed at all.

  • Scott Hester-Johnson

    They’re all so skinny and, with the exception of that one icky one, tit-less!

    It is a Precious Moments Special Wonderland Limited Edition Collector’s Set!

  • http://docnerd.livejournal.com/ Nerdy

    Hmm. I’d argue that the jackets are largely baggy, boxy, and unflattering. The pants are atrocious, and the skirts are nothing to write home about. I like the detailing he did with the zippers, though.

  • Anonymous

    The Vulcans have arrive!

    • alex

      I’d like to think that the Vulcans would consider most of these clothes highly illogical.

  • Sweeney Agonistes

    Star Trek costumes, all.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_QCJEZMOV4VYMXC5WJALLZNYEB4 Mari Rose

      No, the Star Trek costumes fit properly and had more color than this. 

      • Sweeney Agonistes

        One word: Romulans.

    • http://profiles.google.com/shannonlstewart Shannon Stewart

      Not true.  They’re all much to shapeless for a show that has put at least one female cast member per show into a skintight bodysuit or mini skirt. (Uhura — and every other woman on the original, Troi on Next Gen., Kira on DS9, Seven on Voyager, and the Vulcan chick on Enterprise)  No way would Star Trek ever allow their eye candy to walk around in this shapeless boxy crap.

      • Sweeney Agonistes

        Eye candy, sure, but if there had ever been an episode about a Romulan fashion show, this would be it.

      • MilaXX

        Guinan on Next Gen could rock these.

    • Terence Ng

      Sofie Fatale called. She wants her outfits back. And both of her arms.

  • Katey Phillips

    I hated almost everything in this collection. Don’t even understand how those jackets are supposed to be good. Just boring as hell. I’m ok with the 4th, 8th, and 9th looks.

  • Anonymous

    The skirt in the last look is the skirt Heidi hated in the first challenge.

    I kind of feel like his fit issue is that he doesn’t like touching actual bodies.

    • Anonymous

      I agree.  He fits to a dress form and if it doesn’t fit a real person, then oh well.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_GFMOZFM3WT3T56EZHVZFK7UXSI Ramon

      He is like the choreographer Nijinska who used to rehearse wearing gloves because she hated touching little girls sweaty bodies.

  • Scott Hester-Johnson

    On second glance, are they ALL wearing his hair and eyebrows? They are!

  • Anonymous

    You guys are kinder than I am about this collection.  Yes, there’s some interesting design ideas, but what pops out to me is how much he tries to disguise the female figure.  It’s one straight outfit after another (with maybe two exceptions).  All his annoyance at having to dress real bodies shows through in his collection.  I think Olivier needs to get back to menswear.  I just don’t think he likes women’s silhouettes very much.  His best stuff here–the jackets IMO–would be better as menswear.

    • Christina Brennan

      I agree with your assessment, Glammie. The design on some of the pieces is cool, but the fit and execution are awful. 

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=527150091 Pat Biswanger

      I think he hates women, plain and simple.

      • Anonymous

        I wouldn’t say he hates women, so much as I think he finds sex (as in male/female) distasteful.  He wants an androgynous society of people with the exact same tiny frames.  Everyone in beige and gray, staring blankly into space.  B/c he also doesn’t want anyone to have opinions.

        • MilaXX

          wasn’t that the nightmare in the (original) Lathe of Heaven?

          • Anonymous

            Yes!  It was the psychogists way of getting rid of racial issues . . . who’d a thunk there’d be an Ursula leGuin moment in this thread?

          • MilaXX

            There we have it, Precious Moments collection was inspired by Ursala K. LeGuin

          • Anonymous

            Hey that explains his love of greige, doesn’t it?  The color all of us should be.

        • Anonymous

          Hard to believe someone who hated female bodies would design a transparent blouse.  Kind of hard to hide the female form when the girls are right out there for the world to see. I think he just likes a boxy shape. It’s not an unheard of design preference.

          • Anonymous

            I think from comments he’s made that he’s not a fan of the female shape.  He’s also not a fan of someone larger than a dress form.  Just b/c he put a sheer shirt on a model doesn’t mean he likes boobs.  I think it’s more like he doesn’t think of them as a sexual object, so he doesn’t consider boobs in his design.

    • scottyf

      Please don’t foist him on us guys.

      As I said in another post, I was aghast when he had no idea of how to measure crotch depth in the last challenge. If he hasn’t mastered the basics of flat pattern-making, how can he possibly have an aesthetic that has any true architectural consistency or relevance to an actual human body–female OR male? I really think Terence Ng was right: this kid seems to have no real interest in creating garments for actual wear. It’s all about fulfilling his cloistered and rather masturbatory ideas of textile design.I really would like to see what happens to him after getting down and dirty with that big trucker the Soul Brothers recommended. Maybe then he would be able to manifest his passion into something much more visceral, and far more interesting.

      • http://beautyforrealgirls.blogspot.com/ accidental housewife

        “I was aghast when he had no idea of how to measure crotch depth in the last challenge.”

        I thought I either imagined that or misheard what was said, because it seemed unfathomable to me that someone who studied fashion design wouldn’t know how to do that. I want to equate something I learned in cosmetology school that would be similar so I can understand it – perhaps getting hair to stay in a roller while doing a roller set. Because it seems like a very basic bit of knowledge that’s a vital part of the foundation of design.

        • scottyf

          I’m not a professional designer or tailor, but I did study a little in college, and worked for a while in a costume shop. In addition, my present  job occasionally calls on me to design and/or construct a costume or two, and I make a lot of my clothes (when I have the time). 

          If I’m not doing a very good job of explaining, I hope some professional folks in the commentariat will correct, or add to this.

          Getting hair to stay in a roller sounds like an essential technique of cosmetology. It’s something you’d probably learn in your first week of training.What I’m talking about is something you’d learn on the first day. It would be the list they give you of the tools you needed in order to do your job. Taking a detailed set of measurements is the first step in allowing you to take a flat piece of fabric and turn it into something three dimensional and shaped to a particular body. One of the reasons I make a lot of my pants is because it’s difficult to find ready to wear trousers that fit my butt comfortably–partially because the pants are cut with a narrow crotch area that doesn’t give adequate room to my ample rear end. It is also one of the things that gives ladies the dreaded camel toe, and gentleman a higher vocal octave.

          Now garment construction may not have been a part of Olivier’s training. He may have only studied design elements. It seems highly unlikely, but…

          After looking at his collection, it suddenly dawned on me: during Tim’s workroom visit, Olivier complained about Ewan’s size. Tim’s first response was a startled (and understandable), “You have his measurements!” Olivier looked like a deer in the headlights.  I now realize that he had no clue as to how to turn that information into actual patterns to construct a tailored garment. You can certainly construct a garment without that information, but what you will most likely get is a garment replete with fit issues.

          • http://modernretrowoman.com DrJulieAnn

            I, too, wondered why he was complaining about the dress form not being the right size when he had the measurements.  I can’t imagine going to design school and not learning flat pattern making.  In my program, students had to take both draping and flat pattern making courses before they were even allowed to take the design courses. 

            But he really did look clueless as to what to do with the measurements, didn’t he?

          • scottyf

            I’d have to go back through the episodes (which should be the new form of Chinese Water Torture), but I’m willing to bet that Olivier draped the majority, if not all, of his garments, so having the right sized dress form was crucial to his process. I now realize that he also complained about the form during the first client challenge. He didn’t know how to transfer his vision to any other size.

          • Cautiously Pessimistic

            If you want to get technical about it, design and construction aren’t precisely the same thing.  I can copy a garment pretty well.  That’s all about knowing how to manipulate the fabric to get the desired effect.  I can take my own measurements or a client’s measurements and produce a garment that fits.  I can tailor store-bought garments without a problem.  I’m not as good at the innovative aspects of actual fashion design.  I could probably get better at it if I worked at it, but that’s not high on my priority list right now.

            So it’s possible that Olivier is a really good designer, but in the real world, I imagine there’s a lot more overlap between design and construction than I described above.  It’s not just about creativity.  There are physical limitations to what you can do with clothes that are going to be worn by real people, and I don’t just mean the impracticality of a totally sheer and ill-fitting shirt.  Not every idea can really be translated into an actual garment.

            I imagine it’s like being an architect – you can draw pictures of houses all day long, but unless you understand how a house is built and what kind of materials are available to you and what kind of restrictions are in place because of the location of the house (both in terms of natural conditions like soil and weather and in terms of local building codes), you’re not going to be able to build a house.  Drawing pretty pictures doesn’t make you an architect.  Making clothes-like artwork that goes on a mannequin doesn’t make you a fashion designer.  Either one has to translate into something that a person can live in.

          • Anonymous

            Exactly my thoughts on Olivier. Exactly.

            And I kind of LIKE the design aesthetic I see peeking through his lack of clothing-producing skills.

            I wonder where he studied, and if he passed any classes. I’m not a fan of the Lifetime site, does anyone know if they said anything about his training?)

          • http://beautyforrealgirls.blogspot.com/ accidental housewife

            So it’s about as basic to clothing construction as anything could be.

            I believe you’re right that he doesn’t know how to turn measurements into a pattern. It goes back to what someone else said a couple weeks ago about Olivier – to him, fashion is all about the idea. He’s not interested in practical application. He wants to create art. I also think it’s possible that he’s not enough of a linear thinker to translate a two dimensional drawing into a three dimensional garment that a real, live, actual person can wear. (I understand that, because I have the same problem. If I look at a blueprint, it’s all gobbledygook to me)

            Thanks scotty. Your explanation is very clear.

    • Cautiously Pessimistic

      I’m remembering a comment TLo made about Victorya in the fourth season (no, my memory’s not that good, I was reading old recaps the other day in a fit of insomnia): a male designer who deliberately masked the female form over and over would have been called on it.  In her case, it was cinching the bust and going loose and flowing below it, effectively eliminating the shape of the body.  Olivier’s using different techniques here but achieving the same result: clothing so asexual it seems to fear the shape of the woman wearing it.

      I am sort of amazed at how he got complicated jackets to lack any structure, but it’s not a good sort of amazement.

    • Anonymous

      Agreed – his clothing doesn’t exactly celebrate the female form, does it?

  • Anonymous

    Ugh. It looked like he was going for alien androgyny in the styling, but it didn’t quite work. And why did his model with the sheer blouse have boobs?

    • Terence Ng

      A sad attempt to prove that he’s not anti-boob? Or maybe he forgot that they were there?

      • alex

        Repression?

  • http://www.facebook.com/pinkyshear Pinky Shear

    I consider myself a geek gal, and the Trekkie look of this should have me feeling inspired.  Sadly no,  even in  the techno nerd world, this is an Epic Fail.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

    What the HELL is it with his styling? Those eyebrows really began to creep me out- they’re worse than the guinea pig bedding chips he pasted on that poor girl’s face in the pet store challenge. It’s as if he wants to make his models so unattractive that we’ll look at his clothes in self defense.

    He also seems to have confronted the Boobs issue by just letting them hang out in public.

    • Anonymous

      “It’s as if he wants to make his models so unattractive that we’ll look at his clothes in self defense.”

      That totally backfired though.  All I could look at were those brows!

    • http://beautyforrealgirls.blogspot.com/ accidental housewife

      The eyebrows are crazy, but they don’t bother me. It’s the hair that is bugging the hell out of me. It’s just flat-out ugly. It would have been fine if it were slicked back, but all that poof on the top of the head is not aesthetically pleasing.

  • http://twitter.com/snowgall Teresa Galloway

    Agree with you about the sixth look (with the gray/black double-zippered dress). It was the only look of his I really liked. But I have to know: do the zippers also work from the top? It looks like they might, which would make this an AWESOME nursing dress. You just can’t find stylish nursing clothes anywhere. I suggest Olivier make that his niche (like that would happen). It’s safe to bet that was *not* his intent.

    • Anonymous

      Wouldn’t that be hilarious, if he inadvertently found his niche with huge-nursing-boob clothes!! Talk about DD, ha!

      • http://beautyforrealgirls.blogspot.com/ accidental housewife

        Oh the irony.

  • Damien Washington

    I think the pieces and his styling just reinforce that he’d rather be making menswear. Wispy, wistful twink Asian menswear.

  • Katey Phillips

    Olivier, however, does look kind of adorable himself.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

      I think he looks a bit like Andy Warhol’s Asian love child

  • Sara__B

    I believe he uses a giant fire hydrant as a dress form. There’s no acknowledgement of the female form, not even the models’ long lean ones.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_QCJEZMOV4VYMXC5WJALLZNYEB4 Mari Rose

    I got the feeling that part of the problem with these half-assed looks is that he simply ran out of money because he spent so much of his allowance on leather.

  • Anonymous

    Maybe it’s the eyebrows, but these models in these clothes all look like extras from the bridge of the Starship Enterprise!

    • Anonymous

      Deep Space Nine is more like it.

  • Anonymous

    His models all look very, very angry.

    And thin.

    For someone who doesn’t like boobs to send out a model in a sheer top is just weird. (and she is very, very brave).

    • alex

      I would be angry, too, if I had to walk a runway show in clothes that look almost designed to be as unflattering as humanly possible!

    • Anonymous

      I agree – as though they are going to rough him up after this whole nasty runway show is over.

  • Joanna Schuth

    Bleagh and ick. How joyless.

    • Anonymous

      That was the word I was looking for, joyless. It all comes across as Depressed Designer to me.

      • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

        It’s like the woman-hating designer on Kids In The hall: shoes which were boxes of broken glass, a dress made entirely of pink fiberglass insulation, and a big spike through the head for a hat

  • http://profiles.google.com/shannonlstewart Shannon Stewart

    I can’t believe you guys liked those jackets!  Were they that much better in person?  ‘Cause in the stills, they look completely shapeless and unflattering! 

    If anyone showed up on the red carpet wearing something as badly fitted as those pieces, you guys would slam them.  And there is no excuse for that — it’s not that hard to fit a piece that’s made correctly in the first place, and as a self-professed MENSWEAR designer, he should certainly know better.  Menswear is ALL about tailoring, for God’s sake. 

    • http://www.tomandorenzo.com Tom and Lorenzo

      What are you talking about? We spent the ENTIRE POST pointing out how badly everything fit.

      • http://twitter.com/mme_hardy MadameHardy

        You kept calling the pieces “great” or “pretty great” when there wasn’t a single piece that fit.   How can something that refuses to acknowledge the existence of the wearer   be “pretty great”?

        • http://www.tomandorenzo.com Tom and Lorenzo

          There is a difference between design and fit.

          • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1344922354 Eric Scheirer Stott

            True- there are a couple of pieces which are interesting, but would need to be redone to be really wearable.

  • Anonymous

    YAWN. So glad he’s gone from the show. What sad drab pieces!

  • Anonymous

    dont the models kind of look like Olivierieyay…?

  • Anonymous

    It’s nice that the Vulcan’s are participating in fashion now..Live long and prosper!

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Jessica-TallGirl-Freeman/1043623567 Jessica TallGirl Freeman

    I think this is all atrocious….it looks bad on MODELS for pete’s sake. 

  • http://twitter.com/CestmoiLola CestmoiLola

    Weak tea. And the flesh-toned double-zip skirt made me think of Buffalo Bill from Silence of the Lambs. Not good.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_BEV2WB3MZRJHA4KD5DK4QY6FQQ Dinah

      I immediately thought Silence of the Lambs too!  

  • Anonymous

    Yes to the first coat. Pretty much no to everything else.  HATE the color palette. But honestly, it’s hard to see the clothes clearly when my eyes are pulled–kicking and screaming–to the ridiculous eyebrows and gross, ugly hair. It’s almost enough to make you think that Olivierierio just simply hates women. Well, “hates” is probably too strong a word for someone whose emotional range seems limited to extremely depressed–>nervous and upset.

    The whole collection makes me feel extremely depressed. It’s just very sad.

    • http://pinkpolarity.livejournal.com/ Polarity

      No, I think “hate” is a fair word, it’s just a really passive-aggressive kind of hate. But the way he reacted to his female client in the wives and SOs challenge read that way to me, like having to deal with an actual woman with actual thoughts was beneath him and horrid to him. (Although he seemed to react to Ewan with a kind of revulsion too, which makes me really wonder why he’d choose fashion design as his art form when he finds non-model-shaped bodies to be so disgusting. Why not go into an art form where you don’t actually have to deal with making clothes for other people, or touching human bodies?)

  • Anonymous

    I got the feeling from this collection that Precious Moments is really into androgeny.  There are serious fit issues.  I also got the sense that Olivier doesn’t want to touch the models’ bodies or expects anyone else to either.  Results are less than appealing.  Great fashion makes me crave to touch the fabrics and try things on, imagine myself moving in them. These clothes just give me a sad. 

    • http://dentsdelait.tumblr.com/ Nancy Marion

      I was just about to say the same thing (that he seems to be freaked out by touching people)! Just depressing. The eyebrows make the models look like cartoon characters—and I am afraid that he’d probably try to marry a cartoon character if he could. (My diagnosis since no one asked? Possibly asexual, probably misogynist, definitely out-of-touch with reality.)

  • Anonymous

    So here’s a question I never thought of before: If a designer was a menswear expert, would they be allowed to do their final collection of all menswear? I know it would probably hurt them if they were final 3, but if they were one of the dummy collections, it might be interesting. Hmmm…

  • Anonymous

    Leather (or pleather) and fabric together in one item always annoys me, i don’t know why, but it always does.
    Maybe i think it looks cheap, i don’t know…

    • Anonymous

      I agree. It’s very “Fingerhut Catalog”

      • Anonymous

        Does Fingerhut still exist? I think I have to explore to relive my childhood.

        • http://www.facebook.com/people/Jessica-TallGirl-Freeman/1043623567 Jessica TallGirl Freeman

          Oh yes Fingerhut does exist.  I was shocked when I received a catalog just the other day! 

    • Anonymous

      Maybe that combo bothers you because if the weight of the fabric and the weight of the leather/pleather do not match or the textures of the different materials don’t work well together, the result can be puckery or just out of whack.  I know it bothers me for those reasons.

  • shanna bowie

    Oh, Precious Moments …. I really, really don’t like his stuff. And
    I’ll admit I’m completely over him and his body issues so the horrible
    fit of this makes me want to claw his eyes out (or just play some
    moderately loud music which is the equivalent of clawing out eyes to
    Olivier).

  • Anonymous

    The colors are so ugly that I literally want to cry. Add that to his bizarre textural pairings and all I can think while scrolling through this collection is “Why?!”. The shiny block of leather in the fourth top resembles old latex breaking down over time. It’s horrible! Take it away!

  • Anonymous

    Clearly he wants to dress men.

    • Anonymous

      Not men, preadolescent boys.

      • Anonymous

        Himself.

  • Anonymous

    “We just don’t think he knows how to fit.”
    Let me put it more bluntly – he can’t fit worth sh*t. Minimalism schminimalism – Rei Kawakubo does it better, as do any number of other designers. Sorry, he lost all credibility on the show, and this runway isn’t helping.

    And how weird is it that he had the models made up to look like himself?

    • Anonymous

      Thanks for the reference to Rei Kawakubo.  I googled her and found such interesting pieces that I will be spending more time educating myself on this designer.

  • Anonymous

    I can’t get past the eyebrows and hair to see the clothes. That’s some seriously bad styling issues.

  • Anonymous

    I am so incredibly sick and tired of zippers used as trim.

    And I can’t believe how bad the fit is on these models. 

  • Anonymous

    I’m shocking myself saying this, but in 5 or so years, I expect Bryce to far exceed Olivier.  Bryce is simply young and will learn a point of view and better execution over time.  Olivier seems too entrenched and rigid to learn/develop in the short-term future.  Sad, ’cause I think Olivier could do well if he’d open up a few hundred notches.

    • Anonymous

      Bryce seems to at least have the ability to look outside himself and take criticism. I think with a good apprenticeship (or whatever the right word is), Bryce has possibility. Olive Oyl needs an attitude adjustment.

    • http://twitter.com/PhDKnitter marlie

      Totally agree. The difference between the two is that Bryce seems to have been open to feedback/constructive criticism, but Olivier is so stubbornly adamant about his aesthetic and vision that I doubt he’d be able to really digest any feedback he’d get. He doesn’t have to give up his aesthetic, but he does have to learn how to translate it into “real” clothing.

    • http://twitter.com/PhDKnitter marlie

      Totally agree. Bryce would certainly consider any feedback that he might get, but Olivier is so stubbornly adamant about his aesthetic that he’d rebuke any suggestions about how to interpret his aesthetic into “real” clothes.

  • Anonymous

    Poor sweet lambchop.  I think he’d like women to be boobless and end at the waist.  He just doesn’t find anything below that point of use to his point of view and would prefer to simply attach roller skates, give models a good hard push and send them down the runway.
    The eyebrows look rather like his.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1245406754 Tracey Magyar

    You know the typical nightmare of going to school or work and you are completely naked? I will now have that dream, but instead of being naked, I will have those eyebrows.

    • Toto Maya

      And be wearing these clothes. Only now, in the dream, I will be mortified.

  • Anonymous

    Am I the only bitter kitten that has nice things to say about this collection?  True points about fit and maybe styling, but I agree with TLo that a lot of the pieces are interesting and show an emerging point of view. Send him back to school and then I want to see more.

    • Anonymous

      I agree with you! I think it’s very likely that even his apparently rigid attitudes are more about the locked-in defensiveness someone (especially the inexperienced) can get when completely out of their depth, than a sign of someone too fragile and insular to learn & change.

      Though I have to wonder what training he’s had and if it was formal classes if he passed any to do with creating physical garments. Maybe he’s a ‘visual arts’ major who decided to design clothes instead of create textile art because he thought he’d be more likely to grt a job?

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_3UWY56AAPU5UARF3XM6OEVESAU Dean

    This is so obviously a collection designed by a man who has never had a real conversation with any woman ever. The fit is awful, the colors are drab, the styling is Vulcan-esque (yes, it’s a Star Trek reference), and the materials are cheap looking. In other words, it’s the opposite of pretty or feminine or fierce or attractive or all those things that appeal to women.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_BC7QJMCQBTG5HNTKRGWOVOH4SY Kathryn

    Frankly, I forgot that this was womenswear until the third outfit.  I thought the first two models were men.

  • Kate Pearce

    I like some of the details on the jackets, but the fit is appalling.

  • Anonymous

    I think it shows promise — a la Theyskens or Jil Sander when she was doing her own stuff.  For her it was all about the coats.  With solid apprentice time and a good attitude he should be ready to hatch in a few years.

    • http://twitter.com/PhDKnitter marlie

      Those are perfect examples of a more austere, minimalist aesthetic that *works*. And unfortunately, the opposite of Oliviere’s collection.

  • Toto Maya

    I’m sorry, I don’t see how you guys can praise even one of these looks. They are all hideous. The jackets and vests are UGLY. Nothing redeemable about them, sorry.

  • Anonymous

    Hated it!

  • Anonymous

    This collection is the fashion equivalent of cold, rubbery pasta without any sauce or seasoning.  Bland, limp, colorless, blah.  No thanks.

  • Anonymous

    his collection is hi-larious. The styling is atrocious. dem broooows

  • https://me.yahoo.com/a/dLUE.9h6zdoHMLprP6AQrSQpKt0CZys-#e58b4 tom

    He’s still whiney and one coat doesn’t make a collection.  I don’t know whether it’s leather or vinyl but whatever it is looks cheap and ill fitted.

  • Anonymous

    The styling is just heinous. The hair, eyebrows – blech!

  • http://profiles.google.com/gillianholroyd gillian holroyd

    The black/grey double zipper dress is disappearing between the model’s legs when she walks. Ugh.

    I have to wonder, when the models are such a crapshoot for this show, why he would work in something as unforgiving as (p)leather.

  • Judy_J

    Unfortunately, the crazy eyebrows are the most interesting part of the collection.  It all looks so haphazzard.

  • Anonymous

    Re: the eyebrows. Apparently, this collection was made entirely for Nanny McFee.

  • Joshua

    “But he really needs to learn how to master fit and tailoring.”

    I’m not sure how he expects to be a jacket designer otherwise. He complained so much about normal-sized people, but a lot of these looks are so loosely and poorly fit; I have no idea why he would have been complaining, apart from it being a cover, as you say. His palette is boring, the styling was hideous (made me think of greasy middle-school-aged boys who volunteer to babysit children), and then obviously the fit, which he got wrong on everything but those rockstar trousers. If he had a better attitude, I’d want to like him more and see the positive, like in his jackets, but all I can say for the sorry little sod is good riddance.

    • Anonymous

      In order to achieve excellent fit he would have to touch actual, living human models.  I sense an “ick” response from Olly.

      • Joshua

        Girl, you speak the truth! I never thought of it that way, but now it seems so clear. ROFL!

  • Anonymous

    Wow. I know I’m beating a dead horse, but the fit issue is simply stunningly horrendously awful. Way too many of these look like the Simplicity patterns my Home Ec Teacher urged us to start with because they were basic, had few darts, and simple.

    Also, I long for a runway show that doesn’t feature big, clunky, metal zippers as a trim. Heck, I’d like to see a runway show with no visible zippers. I know, I now, my own personal kinky fantasy, but I like to live on the edge.

    • Anonymous

      I HATE VISIBLE ZIPPERS!  HATE HATE HATE HATE!   oh my, i need to lie down now.

    • Anonymous

      I think I’ve made better fitting and more attractive clothes using Simplicity patterns!

      Can’t get over how terrible all of these are!

  • http://twitter.com/mme_hardy MadameHardy

    Does the second (butter-yellow) jacket zip apart to make a bolero and an … uh … really ugly shawl?  Sportswear!

    Olivier flat-out doesn’t belong in fashion.   He wants to design things that go on display, on a carefully-sized mannequin, and are never, ever tarnished by human contact.  He should be doing sculpture.  Or designing bread wrappers.  I’m not picky.  Just keep him away from clothes.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_OSYAJATXUH3QX7ZDDF52GXG4PU Janie R

      Maybe architecture. I have a feeling the buildings would be cold and uncomfortable in order to punish the occupants.(Especially if they’re overweight)

  • Anonymous

    So not only does Olivier prefer his women painfully thin and completely flat, he also styles them to look as masculine as possible. Oh, Precious Moments, why do you hate women so? What have we ever done to you? Are there mommy issues that need to be addressed? *sigh*

    Oh and that collection is fugly.

      

    • Anonymous

      Just what I was thinking. The man CLEARLY doesn’t want to be designing for women. Sadly, there’s a very small male market for the kind of experimental ugly-minimalist stuff he does.

  • Anonymous

    A couple of the looks had potential, but then the finishing details pushed them over the edge to wrong, just wrong!  Also, I think I recognize one of Tyra’s ANTM alums.  Natasha I think, hard to tell with those brows!!

    • J Dreesen

      it IS Natasha!  ”from Richardson, DALLAS!”  i was scanning the comments to see if i was the only one who noticed.  can you imagine the level of [non]skill it takes to make *her* look shapeless and pissed off?  wow.

    • Anonymous

      You are right…he managed to make Natasha (the ANTM Russian model) looking MANLY!  And she was always told she looked too sexy with pouty lips!

      • http://beautyforrealgirls.blogspot.com/ accidental housewife

        She looks like James Franco in those photos.

        I never would have recognized her if someone hadn’t pointed her out. I didn’t know it was possible to make her unattractive. She looks awful, as do most of the models.

        There’s a way to do androgyny and make it work There’s also a way for women to look beautiful when they’re wearing an androgynous look. Olivier apparently doesn’t know how to do that; or, worst case, he doesn’t want to try,

  • Anonymous

    I think I understand the eyebrows (and styling in general): he wants them to look like men. Do’t forget, he doesn’t like women’s bodies and, apparently, he doesn’t like anything much about women at all. Except the opportunity for thinness.  He does have the seeds of a point of view, but he also has a lot of growing up to do.

    • Anonymous

      Not just like men, but like him.

    • Anonymous

      And perhaps some issues to deal with.  I am not a therapist and would not presume to diagnose, but he seems to have serious problems with some of the very things he will need to work with when designing for human beings.  You know, size, shape, sexual dimorphism, opinions on color and functionality.

  • MilaXX

    I agree with your assessment of his jackets & vest, but everything else is so poorly done  & the styling is so bad that you have to squint at it sideways to appreciate what he’s done with the jackets. His needs to go to work for someone who can help him hone his minimalist, androgynous POV.

  • Anonymous

    He DOES have a point of view. That point of view is ugly. On the other hand, there is some interest and differentness to it. In the sense that that’s what the high fashion world looks for, he has the seeds of a high fashion designer. But he’ll never make it there, because he’s not willing to make the compromises and more-appealing choices it takes to scramble up high enough that people will put up with your interesting, ugly, unwearable stuff.

  • http://profiles.google.com/tarasana Tara Murray

    It’s amazing how he manages to make models who are likely quite pretty look down right ugly and scary!  The second model almost looks as if she has chest hair.  Maybe he thought the finale would be filmed closer to Halloween.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_KEYJDIENR5MRK2NXJYKNOLWDFE Alexandria

    I swear one of the models is Natasha from many seasons ago on America’s Next Top Model. 

    • http://twitter.com/heatherb84 heather b

      I was thinking the same thing! I haven’t watched that show in years but I recognized her from long ago.

    • Anonymous

      I thought so too! The way she purses her lips is very distinctive.

  • Anonymous

    The models look horrified and/or sad, poor things.

  • sweetlilvoice

    It’s as ugly as when I first looked at it. Looking past the horrid styling, a few pieces are nice. He cannot fit at all.

  • Anonymous

    Okay – I’m gonna say something here that might get me damned to hell – or scolded by TLo and others – but I want to know if anyone else out there shares my feeling.  I often think, based on the hideous looking clothing and styling in some high fashion magazines (see Olivier’s collection above), that some (SOME) designers and fashion folks are really misogynists who create “fashion” for some reason that seems to “put us in our place” in some way.  I don’t know if I am explaining this very well – but as I watched Olivier and all the really ignorant/mean things he said about real women and real women’s bodies (boobs! fat! opinions! oh no!) I was wondering if I was seeing some kind of evidence to support my hunch about this.  Some of the clothing is just SO awful – so unflattering, so ridiculous, so ugly – and yet it is touted and celebrated as “art” – which I think some of it really is – spectacle even.  But it still smacks of a hatefulness (?) towards women.  

    Please understand that I am a crazy fashion fan – I love beautiful clothing – I appreciate a beautiful seam, a glorious color, a striking image.  And I know that beauty is in the eye of the beholder - 

    But I think that SOME designers’ work (and the fashion industry’s fawning response) seems really mean to women.  

    (i.e. – many of Olivier’s pieces and the god awful makeup and styling).

    Please don’t yell too loudly.  I’m not trying to start a fight.  I’m not a troll – I promise.  I just want to know if I’m way out on left field here (or right – not sure).

    • Anonymous

      I love what you said.  Love it.  Hit “like” over and over until I realized that it only lets me do it once.

    • Anonymous

      I think you are definitely on to something.  You make a very good point… 
      I don’t think anyone is going to yell, instead maybe they’ll do some soul searching….

    • Anonymous

      You are not out of line.  Historically speaking, fashion has expressed cultural roles assigned to both women and men.  So for example, the bustle, the hobble skirt and the tight corseting of some historical periods both visually and in fact constrained women.  (Some would say that burning our bras in the 60′s was a response to that theory of constraint.  Many of us only bought new ‘chest protectors’ when we started aerobic exercise and realized that our girls could get in the way of our knees without some control.)  

    • http://twitter.com/PhDKnitter marlie

      You bring up an interesting point, though I’m not sure if I agree with you (about Olivier… talking about other designers would go WAY off-topic).

      I don’t think that Olivier’s collection reflects a hatred towards women, though other commenters have certainly questioned whether he hates women. I think it’s more of a fear of women/their bodies/bodies in general. He seems so inexperienced with anything related to real human bodies – whether this is actual or an affectation is unclear to me – that he digs in his heels when he has to consider the “real” human body.

      We all know that models are a far cry from “real” anything, and if you recall, he kept mentioning that he wished that he could just have his model back who would just stand there, be skinny, and not talk. Whether this is misogynist or just plain stupid? Who knows.

      Either way, the kid needs a serious reality check because if he really plans to gain a foothold in the fashion world, he’ll have to change his attitude one way or another.

      As for _other_ designers out there, yes, I’m sure there are some who have hidden (or not so hidden) negative feelings about women that are manifested in their work, and I wonder if they’ll ever be called to task for their behavior/opinions/etc.

    • Anonymous

      You are not alone. Sometimes I look at the fashion industry and see it something that’s designed by men who hate women, for women who hate themselves.

    • Anonymous

      You are thinking clearly. If you Google “fashion + misogyny” you will get many, many hits.  Feminist scholars have been covering the topic for a long time.  The library is a good resource as well.

    • http://joyouslifesf.wordpress.com Kiltdntiltd

      No yelling at all.  There is a long and scary connection between patriarchal social mores and the treatment of women in fashion, and in art.  Women being viewed as anything from possessions or objects to untouchable goddesses.  Like you, I love beautiful clothes that are beautifully crafted. And I am also keenly aware of the disparity between what we say we want, and what we sigh after on the pages of magazines.  Fashion, as it is presented to us, is a fantasy.  Most of us will never try to get to that apex of style, nor would most of us really be comfortable with the price it extracts.
      Are some designers harboring darkly anti-female views?  Of course some of them are.  But not all, and certainly not even most.

      • Anonymous

        I don’t disagree, but one has to be careful: there’s a cliche that fashion designers are gay men who hate women and want to make them look ugly or ridiculous; it’s been around for decades and I first heard it as a child, in the 1960′s.  As has the virtually opposite one that fashion designers are gay men who wish they could wear the clothes they design for women.  Both are examples of horrible, homophobic stereotyping. After all, just about every man I’ve ever met who hates women has been straight.

        • http://joyouslifesf.wordpress.com Kiltdntiltd

          To be completely fair we must all acknowledge the existence within each of us, diametrically opposed views and actions. We are complex layered beings who rarely have a clear picture of our full motivations.  So I totally hear you.  And if I was in any way speaking out of turn I do apologize.

    • Anonymous

      Bravo to you. I have a number of shoe designers at the top of my misogynist Hall of Fame. I have never understood the adoration poured on shoes that are essentially designed to cripple women physically or keep them in their place by ensuring that they can barely move. Why not just reintroduce foot binding while we are at it? Sometimes fashion is both mean and ridiculous. 

    • http://www.tomandorenzo.com Tom and Lorenzo

      We don’t agree. Olivier was just as repulsed by his male client as he was by his female client. It’s not that he hates women; it’s that he has a very “glass jar” theoretical view of fashion that never takes the wearer into consideration at all.

      And we REALLY disagree with the idea that styling that isn’t traditionally feminine is somehow anti-woman. To believe that, we have to subscribe to the idea that the definition of “woman” is curvy, with long hair, and tweezed brows. It’s a bit too culturally specific.

      • http://joyouslifesf.wordpress.com Kiltdntiltd

        This subject, is one that I and my fellow students of costume and clothing history batted back and forth during my schooling, decades back, with little headway achieved. But it would be a fascinating subject for a post of its own one day when they well is dry of RC images to dish.

      • http://pinkpolarity.livejournal.com/ Polarity

        I think you can have styling that isn’t traditionally feminine without having– I just don’t know how to describe it, but, most of this collection. I support nontraditional styling and playing with gender and androgyny. I responded most positively to the transparent blouse one and the one with the long skirt because the juxtaposition of seeing the model’s breasts or a traditional element like a long swishy skirt plus the very masculine makeup and hair read more as genderf**k than as an attempt to completely de-sex the models as women.

        I just think there’s a big difference between having a narrow theoretical view of fashion that doesn’t take the wearer into consideration and saying something like “I hate breasts” (or “vaginas are disgusting”, which he didn’t say, but which is the same sort of message– it’s taking something that’s fairly intrinsic to the female body and declaring it repulsive). The first is “annoying kid without much exposure to the real world” and the second is a misogynistic message that reinforces society’s view that women’s bodies are the property of men, to be analyzed and commented on, fapped to or despised, but never taken as truly human. His attitude toward Ewan is echoing the same societal messages, only about fatness. I suspect that if he’d been given a rock singer with a body like his own, he’d have been just fine with that.

    • Anonymous

      At the risk of getting flamed to a crisp, nobody forces  women to wear uncomfortable, ill-fitting or unattractive clothes. If you’re going to accuse any group of people of being misogynists, start with Anna Wintour and the rest of the fashion press for promoting things like 6″ spike heels.

      • Anonymous

        “…nobody forces  women to wear uncomfortable, ill-fitting or unattractive clothes”  Damn straight – I have saved a young fortune over the years proving that point.

    • Anonymous

      The problem with saying Olivier hates women is it suggests that Olivier is totally fine with men, and there is evidence to the contrary on that count. Remember, all of the things he said about real women and real women’s bodies he ALSO said about real men and real men’s bodies. He was just as mad about his client’s husband having an opinion as he was about the client having one, and he was frequently and openly whining about “fat” men at the beginning of that challenge, and then frequently and openly whining about having a “big” client (to his face) in the band challenge.

      Olivier isn’t sexist, he’s afraid of all people who aren’t quiet dress forms.

      • Anonymous

        And I think the operative work is “afraid.”  He may grow out of that.

      • http://pinkpolarity.livejournal.com/ Polarity

        Disagree that saying he’s misogynist implies anything whatsoever about his attitude toward men.  He can be (and I think he is) both misogynist and fatphobic, and have issues with human bodies. None of these things negate the other, it’s just that hating women has institutional oppressive support in a way that simply having body issues doesn’t. I think the lad has a passel of issues, honestly.

        • Anonymous

          It does imply things about his attitude towards men, however, as does your post. In effect, there is no difference between his attitude towards men and women, using his comments and behavior as evidence. However, you’re saying he hates women, but when it comes to his EXACT SAME issues with men you’re not saying he also hates men, but instead focus on specific body issues. Why aren’t you saying he’s misandrist?

          I personally think he’s acting out of fear instead of hate – his issues all revolve around things he lacks the skills to deal with – but I think it’s unfair and inaccurate to suggest his attitudes have any gender attribution. 

    • Anonymous

      I have the benefit of not having watched more than the first episode this season (unless you condier reading this blog “watching”), and my take on the collection wasn’t misogynist – it was shapeless androgyny – as I believe others have pointed out.  My thought was the ST:TNG episode with the genderless planet where people were ostracized for identifying with one gender or the other.  I think PM would have been very happy on that planet.

    • http://pinkpolarity.livejournal.com/ Polarity

      This was essentially my reaction too.

  • Anonymous

    You two had a much better reaction than me…I have trouble giving him credit for having ‘some ideas’ when the results are still unflattering and ugly to look at. maybe the styling is throwing me off.

  • Anonymous

    Let’s see, before I read any but the very first comment–I can explain the eyebrows (didn’t he do the same thing with the hamster bedding?) and the hair styling–he is attempting to make every model look as much like himself as possible. And look, in the sixth from the bottom (the ‘cool rock n’ roll pants’)–BOOBS! and nipples. Hmmm maybe he overcame his fear after the sig. other challenge? Sorry, can’t say I will miss him.

    • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_OSYAJATXUH3QX7ZDDF52GXG4PU Janie R

      I agree. Just like Anya makes her models look like her, he makes his look like him. That was the first thing that popped into my head.  

  • Anonymous

    im a little surprised at all the negative reactions in the comments. yes, the collection is flawed; mainly, i think there are too many pieces that feel underdesigned, and the whole thing goes a little off the rails towards the end.

    BUT this is clearly a FASHION collection, not something that can be said about all PR final collections. too many times, there have been cases of boring cathalogue clothes, or WTF level of incompetence, or general lack of any fashion sensibility. in this collection, for all its faults, i can at least clearly see that it was created by a fashion designer.

  • Anonymous

    Fail.  There are germs of ideas here but he just didn’t pull it off.   He’s only a kid.  And like many kids, he has no fucking clue that he has no fucking clue.  I’d be interested to see what he does at forty.  Until then, I have no interest in him.  

  • Anonymous

    I thought the fifth model was sticking out her tongue. That was the most interesting thing about this collection. 

    • http://www.facebook.com/people/Karen-Stephens-Bassett/1503492602 Karen Stephens Bassett

      She was trying not to barf.

  • Anonymous

    I’m not a fan of his collection and style…but if the major issues are fit, then Oliver needs a good seamstress to help execute his ideas.

    It’s too bad for him that he didn’t implement some of these leather and jacket ideas into his R & R challenge…he might not have been auf’ed then. 

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Ailsa-Martin/644946901 Ailsa Martin

    Do we know where he went to fashion school? He said the UK, and the best fashion school here is Central St Martins, and the Fashion degrees at CSM ( and other unis) are REALLY theory based, not practical. As in, they place way more importance on say doing sketches than on learning pattern cutting. So it’s possible he just doesn’t have a lot of experience with actually making or fitting clothes – and, if he’s recently out of school, he probably hasn’t worked with any non-models yet (At Central St Martins, I believe all the graduate collections have to use exactly the same set of models). Also, there’s quite a focus on conceptual, out-there, avant-garde designs, which might influence the eyebrow… thing? (This isn’t an excuse for the unflattering boxiness of course, just an idea!)

    Still, I’m disappointed, because I was really liking him at the start of the season, and I like the idea of this collection – very androgynous, strong lines and a bold through-story – but he just didn’t pull it off.

    • Anonymous

      Thank you for this bit of info. I can believe he got through a program with most of its emphasis on drawing & intellectual discussion & analysis rather than pattern making, construction & fit.  Especially if his collections used all the same models used by everyone else in the program, plenty of opportunity there for him to get help from his peers to get him over his practical difficulties.

  • http://twitter.com/susanpcollier Susan Collier

    Well, I liked the jackets in this collection better than the entirety of Bryce’s kilt buckle show. Skirts, shirts, and pants are a little dull though.

  • Anonymous

    He certainly needs to work on proportion, fit and finish in a major way. Can you imagine how long it must have taken him to actually “finish” this collection given his lack of time management? Probably still sewing up until the models took to the runway. This kid seems to have a painfully narrow focus and it’s not doing him any favors. 

  • Anonymous

    oh good grief…

  • Anonymous

    I’m surprised at how bad this is – the fit, the sewing, everything. I knew he liked the minimalist thing, but he didn’t even do that well! It seems like he didn’t put much effort into it since it was a decoy collection. He seemed to give up in the last 2 challenges when forced to work with real human beings with opinions, breasts and body fat. Something tells me he gives up if he doesn’t get his way.

  • http://twitter.com/PhDKnitter marlie

    I don’t think Oliviere “hates” women, but I wouldn’t be surprised if he
    has some sort of pathological fear of them, and of the human body in
    general. He’s certainly taken the androgynous concept to shapeless,
    which is not the same thing. And, I can’t imagine his garments working
    as men’s clothing either, because these boxy shapes wouldn’t work on a
    male model either.

    And yes, I do think a lot of this clothing is styled for Ollie himself,
    but HE dresses like a pre-adolescent boy wearing his father’s clothes,
    and that look isn’t a good one either.

  • Anonymous

    Eyebrows…. no….. just…… can’t……

  • Joe J

    The eyebrows are such a hilariously bad idea; I swear, he made that fifth model look weirdly like Tom Welling from “Smallville”.

    And for that third-from-last look, I can hear Michael Kors asking “What’s going on with the boobies?” Seriously, designers – let Wendy Pepper’s collection serve as a warning to all of you on see-through tops.

  • Anonymous

    His main design element seems to be to place unnecessary zippers in place of seams.  Meh.

  • http://twitter.com/AbbottRabbit AbbottRabbit

    They all look like space assholes from a future where they worship Frida Kahlo. 

  • Anonymous

    I don’t have a long enough time frame to read all the comments right now…but I’ll be willing to bet someone else made the connection that the models look like HIM.  Awash in paleness with rather boxy eyebrows.

    I wasn’t crazy about a lot of this in the thumbnails I’d seen, but these closer-ups show that a lot of this looks very unfinished.  I can’t tell if he *intended* so much of it to have raw edges, or he just ran out of time (quiltrx strokes her imaginary beard, wondering which might be true…)–but if there was intent in that, it’s a really odd juxtaposition of ‘sleek’ and ‘raw.’  Throw ‘poorly fitted’ in there, and it doesn’t show very well at all.

    The jackets are really nice–and the boy knows his way around a zipper (so few people do).  I totally agree that that may be a good place for him to focus.

    Interesting to me…I wonder if he fitted his own pants?  Other than the oddity of them being male corduroy capris (at least it looks corduroy to me)–say that out loud a few times–they fit his Ken-doll-body (or maybe he’s built more like Skipper) very well.  If he did make those, which I think is a good bet…why do his pants all have crazy crotch in the collection?

    A final note…JUST SAY NO to sack dresses that people can see your PANTIES through!

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1326120071 Gaby Ripoll

      YES I was just thinking it looked like he turned the models into clones of himself. I have a feeling this is more just his own dream wardrobe – wanna bet he fits all the clothing to himself?

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1314915676 Harvard Bridges

    I saw the first look and thought, SQUIDWARD!

    Interesting collection, to say the least.

    • Anonymous

      I think even Squidward has better taste!

    • Anonymous

      Wow.  Now that you said it, I can’t unsee it.  Hand her a clarinet and a can of bread, and she’d be ready to move to Tentacle Acres.

  • Anonymous

    TLo you are too kind.  It’s all bad. It’s the “Anyone can make it onto Project Runway” collection.

  • Anonymous

    How can you guys hate this collection? It was not great, but it actually tried to say something. Most of this year’s collection were boring and  had nothing to say.  Don’t let your hate cloud your eyes.

    • Toto Maya

      What is it trying to say? You can rip old letter off of 60′s diner booths, toss zippers on it and wear it? When I first saw this collection I had no ill-will towards Olivier, but I still thought it was plain hideous and a disappointment. It doesn’t say anything to me. He just bought a bunch of the ugliest leather he could find and somehow stitched it so it was hanging off of their bodies and usually almost covered them.

    • http://profiles.google.com/shannonlstewart Shannon Stewart

      It was saying, “I’m an unrealistic dolt who has no talent or skill whatsoever.”  That’s not a POV, that’s just the inability to hide his flaws.  There were plenty of people I disliked but I admitted were good — this isn’t good.  It’s unflattering and poorly made.

  • Anonymous

    I was going to ask for an explanation of the crazy eyebrows until TLo said to please not ask.  So I won’t.  But I will say that they are so unattractive that I feel they demonstrate a lack of respect for the models.

  • http://twitter.com/herong Heron

    He says he’s making women’s wear, but he’s actually making androgynous men’s wear that fits these women poorly. He lives in a world without breasts and hips and it shows. He either pretends they don’t exist, or fits them ludicrously, resulting in the absurdly bosomy top sleeveless top and the grossly hippy tan zippered bottom.  He needs to just get over himself and design andro men’s jackets all day long. 

  • Anonymous

    Why the Frida Kahlo styling? Ugh. Done with you, little man.

  • Anonymous

    This collection would be perfect for the movie, “Attack of the Venuvian Amazon Women”.  Plot:  Angry aliens from a world with no gender differences come to earth to mate and then eat their unwilling “victims” like so many praying mantises, biting the heads off at the moment of orgasm. 

    The styling is so distracting that it is hard to focus on the androgynous, monochromatic, ill-fitting clothing.  The models have every reason to look irate  (which is not the same thing as fierce).  That which should not be mentioned but rhymes with “pie cows” makes each look – but not in a good way. Perhaps in a few years Olivier will have matured and worked through his issues.  There are seeds of a POV, but I can’t see women seeking out his Project Runway body of work to add to their closets.

  • http://joyouslifesf.wordpress.com Kiltdntiltd

    In all the discussion of fitting it comes to this: closely fitted clothes are primarily about mathematics and geometry, understanding the shapes that fit around the body, and crafting them to do so well.  More loosely structured clothes require all those things, plus an inherent and hard to learn wisdom about the fluid nature of textiles. Concepts such as drape, hand, bias and stretch must be fully understood before being able to craft looser designed garments well.

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Claudia-Gilbert/875055316 Claudia Gilbert

    Was that Natasha from ANTM wearing the sheer skirt?

    • http://www.facebook.com/people/Claudia-Gilbert/875055316 Claudia Gilbert

      Cycle 8?

    • http://profiles.google.com/sara.e.parker Sara Parker

      Yes, I was thinking the same thing! She looks terrified.

  • Anonymous

    It’s hard to tell about these clothes since the styling is so unattractive.

  • Anonymous

    Set phasers to stun!

    • Anonymous

      Set audience to stunned!

  • Anonymous

    Wow.  So awful.  The fact that you found so much (more than one or two pieces) to compliment confuses the hell out of me. 
    That first one you like so much  (gorgeous? eeekkk)  is so plain (except the zipper shoulders) and unflattering.   it is actually ugly to me.

    Another coat(/ top?) with no closure (in gray, camel and black is awful as well )

    there is one dress – black top with gray skirt with the two vertical zippers – that could have been saved by some decent fitting.  

    • http://profiles.google.com/trashilove { edi } ilovetrash

      yep, thats the best, most wearable dress. i would wear that dress if it were made properly. but made properly– i cant figure if it needs a belt or simply to be appropriately conceptualized, front & center. & if i keep deconstructing it, more fades into the incomprehensible & all that leather turns as if gossamer into nothingness– or at least nothing worth keeping.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_HREPOWNBVUBRIVPQCF3ST2IKDM Euphory

    I think he’s very rough around the edges but has a lot potentials.
    These looks could be very sharp if the issues you mentioned are improved. 
    I still think he’s one of the few designers that could actually improve post show, simply he has his own ideas and a POV.  Tailoring, styling and even client-dealing can be improved with practice and age (and he is only 22, after all).  But you cannot practice ideas. 

    PS:  His post-show interview really cleared up a lot of confusions regarding his accent and name.  I, for one, never really understood why some people are so pissy about his accent.  Sounds like standard Asian ESL + Euro to me.  And if you are Asian, you would know what crazy names parents give kids.

    • Anonymous

      “you cannot practice ideas” YES. 

      He can’t execute his ideas, and some of them might well strike me as ‘not my thing’ even if he could.  But I do think he was way ahead of some (many) of the other contestants in actually seeming to show something that could be, someday, the recognizable work of a particular designer.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_LFA7IMYX3NQB6SP3JHKKSRNPOM Virginia

    Sorry if I’m repeating someone else, but I simply cannot believe he showcased those SCARY BREASTS in the sheer top!  Wasn’t he afraid one of those boobies might just leap out and eat him up?!

  • http://profiles.google.com/misslauraschultz Laura Schultz

    There is not one item of clothing that I like in this collection. His color preferences are boring and unstylish. AUF!

  • http://profiles.google.com/phyllis.craine Phyllis Craine

    He may be able to cut a jacket but he evidently can’t do anything more complex than a than a shawl collar (with fake revers). And shawl collars soooooo hard to draft – NOT!

  • http://www.facebook.com/Cookie.Taz Aisa Ginger Jake Psenicnik

    AWFUL!  there is no redeeming piece in this “collection” everything looks like its made from cheap vinyl, duct-tape, and cheesecloth. 

  • http://twitter.com/wtflanksteak Ali B

    His styling is atrocious. All the models looked like angry cartoon men.

  • Anonymous

    When I saw the eyebrows (when TLo posted earlier posted the runway shots) I knew Olive garden was a decoy. He had styled his model with similar eyebrows in the pet shop challenge and the Duchess called him out on that. Styling the models with caterpillar eyebrows for Fashion Week was Olive Garden’s f-you to the judges, something he would have never done had he been competing for the prize money.

    • http://profiles.google.com/trashilove { edi } ilovetrash

      you think he’s that aware? or he cares that much about what the judges thought?
      i cant see it. to me he seems oblivious. not to mention a big fan of eyebrows.

      • Anonymous

        You’re right, I may have read too much into it. I was assuming rational behavior, not Olive Garden’s apparent “I can do no wrong” personal feedback loop. 

    • http://profiles.google.com/shannonlstewart Shannon Stewart

      Oh, I called it because of the model in the sheer top.  No way could producers have allowed him to show that piece with nothing under it if it was being filmed.

  • http://twitter.com/VicksieDo Vickie Lord

    It’s hard to believe, how unselfaware he is.  His horrible attitude towards clients, his lack of skill in tailoring, his one color palette, hard to believe no one ever called him on all of it before… I would never buy anything from him, because I see his character, and it is not good.  These clothes are unfinished, unflattering, don’t fit, and are the same old colors he always uses.  BORING/UGLY

  • Anonymous

    The androgynous folk of the planet Beigatica V are a silent folk, and they live for one reason – to get a nifty jacket from the one they call “Designer.” They don’t actually call him that, since they can’t talk, but sometimes they hold up a sign or mime it. The Designer reigns over the Beigaticans with an iron fist, and can give and take away on a whim. If you displease the Designer you might have your shirt taken away, or be forced to walk around in a very silly sheer top that makes your boobs look confused. Beigatica’s society was ripped wide open when Commander Willian T. Riker showed everyone what sex was by using the powers of his manly beard, and the Beigaticans revolted when they realized that while they had nifty jackets, they had some really ugly pants and tops – or no tops, as the case may be. The Designer was driven to insanity when everyone actually started to talk and said things like “these pants really fit me badly, what’s the deal?” Then, since they knew what sex was, they all got pregnant and the Designer had to design around a baby bump, so in a fit of despair he leaped off the highest cliff, never to be heard from again.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1046681022 Paula Berman

    Is the name of this collection “I RAN OUT OF TIME!” ?  Sure seems like it.  His aesthetic simply does not appeal to me.

  • http://profiles.google.com/trashilove { edi } ilovetrash

    some people are mature talents when they are 21, not many people, but a few. he is not one of them.

    i think that if he decides to pursue this line of work, he’ll be fine in a decade. as big as he’d find me {time to get Oliver’s Emo Brand smelling salts}, i guess i should be up in everlovin arms about his behavior, but i just think he’s all of a jejune piece. acting out, design talent, all of it.

    my tired opinion is that, of the stuff he made here, what looks like it would work in a borg or reptilian fashion show is the work that works best.

    as an aside, did he ever announce he was gay? i cant imagine him making that kind of commitment to anything– not the being gay, which isnt precisely a commitment, but the announcing of it, which is. i see him more as something slightly less usual in this, our internetty age, maybe vigorously if delicately asexual {as per: http://www.asexuality.org} or in carnal & emotional love w/ inanimate objects {as per the woman who married the berlin wall: http://www.berlinermauer.se/}. or perhaps he is a closet plushie or furry or some other offshoot of cyberculture. again, i cant diagnose him, i have no idea, but i do think it’s possible. what i have learned since being online is that the world is filled w/ tiny little tributaries of tributaries of tributaries of tributaries of life i would elsewise never have known existed.

    edited for grammar.

    • Anonymous

      Completely agree with your estimation of the state of his talent & maturity.

      Maybe because I see him as an unintentionally tiresome & pitiably awkward young person, he doesn’t upset me as much as he apparently upsets so many others. Plus I bet he can be quite endearing, quietly.

      Now, insofar as his sexuality, I hesitate to speculate because, as you said in a different way, you just never really know about people, unless you know them very well indeed & they choose to let you know.

      But I would find it easy to believe that either his anxieties or his passionate involvement with aesthetic ideas/theory are more important and take up way more of his emotional energy than does the sexual side of life.

  • Anonymous

    I am so glad that my fears that he would be in the top three have been proven wrong.  That probably makes me a bad person.

  • Anonymous

    underwhelmed is an understatement. the bat-crap crazy styling is quite the juxtaposition from his oatmeal badly fitted garments WHICH i loathe. Taste and execution are quite questionable. 

  • Anonymous

    I wasn’t a huge fan of Oliviovaries’ work during the show, but I was interested to see what he put out on the runway when it was all about his inspiration, his design, his ideal, especially given the way he flamed out with the final two (and client-based) challenges. Well, hmm…not much is revealed here, is it? I like the last two outfits, but that’s about it. The rest is not very interesting at all.

    • Anonymous

      I’m liking this comment purely for Oliviovarie. Sheer brilliance. Unlike his collection.

  • Anonymous

    some of the ugliest styling I’ve ever seen. clothes not interesting. sorry precious moments. nothing personal. 

  • Anonymous

    These are not clothes for women. They are clothes for genderless androids.

    The eyebrows are meant to turn the models into boys. Most of the jackets have lines taken from menswear. He’s terrified of boobs and women with actual curves and bodies.  I think hitting puberty sent poor Precious Moments into an existential terror from which he has yet to recover.  I suggest serious psychotherapy.

  • Addicted2Glamour

    Does Precious hate women or something !? It’s almost like he thought “Let’s take a dozen beautiful girls and see how ugly I can make them.” The pants give the models FUPA and I could swear a few of these girls look like they’ve had a wisp of mustache penciled on. Yuck. 

  • Anonymous

    I thought this was by far the ugliest of all the collections this year. In fact, probably one of my least favorite of any I’ve seen. It was probably hurt by the styling, which I found rather horrifying.

  • Anonymous

    Is it me or does this remind you of something you’d see on an extra on Star Trek Deep Space 9?  Especially the styling?  The rare SpecialMomentoids from the planet Bland in the Meh Sun System…

  • M N

    I had a violently negative reaction to these when they were first posted, but on reevaluation… they’re still awful.  Ugh, ugh, ugh. Two or three pieces might have been nice in different colors and with decent tailoring, but as it is, this entire collection is the exact antithesis of what I like.

  • Anonymous

    It’s all so ugly, and I hate the color combos are uglier still. The super-high rises on the pants aren’t flattering on skinny models; think what they’d do to Oliver’s dreaded actual people.

  • Anonymous

    At least the assembly line of Olivier clone models is interesting, if slightly disturbing. After seeing his collection I pictured him slaving away in his dystopian looking secret lair- err, design studio, a hairless cat with ginormous drawn on eyebrows as his only companion, thinking “I shall call them Also Me…..”

    Seriousy though, the coat dress-ish piece with the zipper hem is kinda cool, as are the shiny grey pants. The rest? Not so much.

  • spooki C

    I can barely even see the clothes through those eyebrows. YUCK!

  • Anonymous

    I just can’t with the boxy jackets over bare skin.  To me jackets with no shirt always looks either like she grabbed something when the fire alarm went off or like Sue Ellen Mischke, the braless wonder on Seinfeld.  Either way, no.

    And the eyebrows…ugh.

  • http://twitter.com/Merneith Merneith

    It’s like student work from an art student who doesn’t really like art but thinks being artistic makes him cool.

  • Lisa

    He must have been furious that the models actually walked down the runway instead of just standing still, like he demands! ;-)

    Oh, and his clothes are hideous.

  • Anonymous

    The collection is not made for homo sapiens sapiens. The fit issues all related back to the porcelain-based life-form from whence he originated. Oh, and these clothes are all meant for the male version of his species.

    It’s like judging architeuthis fashion using human standards. It just doesn’t translate!

  • Anonymous

    Frankly I think Olivier to find an outlet for his creative impulses other than fashion.This collection is a trainwreck IMO — an incredibly limited and boring palette, minimal design (what you boys see as minimalist I see as barely qualifying as design), crummy fabric choices that look too downscale, craptastic fit — all topped off by colossally ugly styling. 

  • Anonymous

    All I can really think looking at this is how he’s so young, and how much his work shows it. I think when he grows up a bit he may produce some genuinely interesting stuff (when his technical skills improve, when he gets over his fear of encountering actual humans, etc). He certainly didn’t make a good impression on the show, but I find it hard to hold it against him when he’s such a bizarre little hothouse flower of a fella.

    The eyebrows are not right, though. I would have loved to see what, if anything, Tim said about those. Or Kors. “It’s like wooly caterpillars are migrating through Sesame Street!”

  • Anonymous

    I’m writing a song for Olivier called “Holy– , the crap I made.”
    To the tune of “People will say we’re in love.”

  • Anonymous

    I just can’t. Words fail.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1294512334 Terri Griffith

    I don’t really like any of it but the big question is this: what’s with the big stupid Groucho Marx eyebrows? Don’t even tell me that’s “in”.

  • Laura Lee Washburn

    he hates women.  He should design for men or for robots.

    • Anonymous

      If he hates women, he hates men. Same type of “you must be the shape of a dress form and quiet” attitude for both genders.

      Now robots, you might be on to something.

    • http://www.facebook.com/people/Karen-Stephens-Bassett/1503492602 Karen Stephens Bassett

      Definitely robots.  He can determine their size and won’t have to listen to any “people” comments.  He can also paint on the ugly eyebrows so that they look just like him.  Can you tell I am glad he is gone?!

  • Anonymous

    My favorite here is the dress with the black pleather top & the grey midriff & skirt punctuated by zippers.

    When I saw this collection I thought it deserved to be in the top four and he had an outside chance of being a finalist, but he just doesn’t have the skills, yet, to have ever shown enough of his aesthetic during the challenges to get that far.

    I haven’t read through the comments, so this may have been commented to death, but if he only had communication/people skills, he and Bert could have been a dream team. Oliver’s design vision grafted onto Bert’s natural bent for simplicity and his stone cold execution skills would have blown away any other pairing I can think of this season. IF Oliver could persuasively sell Bert on his vision.

    • Anonymous

      Oh, and while the eyebrows, etc. certainly aren’t appealing, I just can’t get all indignant about oddly/unattractively-styled models – from someone functioning as a young & dra-MAH-tically & aspirationally conceptual student – after seeing what some of the biggest names in the world of fashion design do to their runway models.

      I’m quite sure that had the staging & budget run to it, his decoy collection would have appeared amidst either an icy & desolate, austerely bone white & over-lit, or black and bleak setting.

    • http://profiles.google.com/trashilove { edi } ilovetrash

      i pretty much agree w/ you, actually.
      at the very least, the distance between his work & bryce’s is considerable.

    • https://profiles.google.com/104791269167429064986 Judy S

      Just  came to this post,  have only read a few comments, hated this collection (even when I tried scrolling to cut the heads off the models and not see their styling). But thanks for posting. It’s good to see something that tries to take what he is doing seriously (as T Lo do).

  • Anonymous

    I think it’s more than just eyebrows.  It looks like he had the bottom halves of the models’ faces shaded slightly to suggest stubble.  It’s most obvious on the first and fourth models.

  • Susan Crawford

    I really liked a number of the jackets. But even there – and with lots of extra time to put the collection together – Olivierere just couldn’t quite get the fit right when the garment had any pretensions to be body-conscious. Why is this? Well, dear fawns and bitter little kitties, I think I know why. Getting a garment to fit correctly means that a designer might actually have to come in contact with a living, breathing human body, and we all KNOW that our precious Olivierere simply cannot abide the distasteful prospect of – shudder! – FLESH. In fact, I suspect that the sheer top he made was made completely on a mannequin, and when at last it made it’s way to a live model, our boy had to ask what ”nipples” are. Then he covered his little ears.

  • Anonymous

    Craptastic to the nth degree.

    The coats are nice, the rest is meh and the styling (those eyebrows!!) is atrocious.

    Only designers with impeccable designing and tailoring skills, like McQueen or Gaultier, can get away with WTF styling because the fashion is so flawless it overshadows it .

  • Anonymous

    These are cartoon clones of himself: eerily androgynous mannequins with straight, slick hair and exaggerated versions of his eyebrows; the cut and length of the trousers. I suspect he’s wearing Urkel pants himself.

  • http://stef-lee.tumblr.com/ stef lee

    I think the crazy eyebrows are to make the models look more like him…?

  • Anonymous

    EYEBROWS.  ALL I CAN SEE ARE EYEBROWS.

  • MilaXX

    I don’t think he  was that happy about the male he had to work with either. To me some fashion designers are more interested in clothes as art, rather than celebrating the human form if that makes sense. I see it more as a lack of real life experience rather than an actual dislike of women.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002351929256 Katie Lewis

    He needs to be designing menswear.

  • Anonymous

    I am just curious. Will you rip Gucci Spring 2012 Collection apart, if you don’t know it’s Gucci? (Design alone; no dispute, it’s well-made.)

  • http://heartprintandstyle.blogspot.com Vivi N

    Didn’t care much for his collection. But he should definitely stay in the outerwear lane. That’s where his talent lies. If he realizes it, he’ll prosper in that department. I will buy that lemon jacket/blazer immediately!

  • http://twitter.com/yankeefoxtrot Alex McGeagh

    I think it’s all totally hiddy. Can’t find a single thing in here I’d like to wear OR could see a high fashion model/actress donning. It’s all badly fitted with ugly fabrics/textures and terrible styling. Gross. I don’t find much redeeming about this (but then, I don’t think I liked a single thing Olivieieier had on the show, and his bad attitude even less)…

    • http://twitter.com/yankeefoxtrot Alex McGeagh

      Also, as a rule I find gender norms, androgyny, and the human form to be fascinating in general, walking the line of acceptable and normalcy…and I still dislike these clothes immensely. 

  • Anonymous

    The fit really does distract from some interesting design ideas. I don’t think Oliver is able to design for the human body, regardless of size or shape. He’s all about ideas and concepts rather than clothes, and that does not bode well for his future. 

  • http://korilian.livejournal.com/ korilian

    The whole thing is pretty but ugly. 

  • Anonymous

    this is all extremely bad. That first bathrobe coat is just a bathrobe that happens to be made out of suit material. And he is clearly still dressing men – the wide shoulders aren’t statement-shoulders, they are men’s shoulders. The suit-stuff looks like first year university students’ idea of what to wear to an interview – either too big and too baggy or too tight and short – and the leather looks like cheap business-casual that happens to be made of leather. And the styling is beyond hideous.

  • Anonymous

    If the clothes weren’t bad enough he gives the GIANT EYEBROWS??
    I don’t care how well the guy can sew, these ladies look drab and ugly.

  • Anonymous

    Boooooooring

  • Anonymous

    I don’t like any of his stuff — nothing he made on the show or for this collection appeals to me. Everything – his tailoring, his shapes, his colors, his materials, his styling – is so unattractive to me. I don’t like his jackets, his tops, his pants and his dresses. I don’t like those zippers. Everything. Ugly. Eurgh.

  • Anonymous

    The problem is…besides the ugliness factor… the fit. Olivierere seems to believe that the person should fit the clothes and if they don’t then there is a problem with the person (too big, has boobs) not the clothing.

  • http://masquedbunny.tumblr.com masquedbunny

    While Anya has been criticized for styling her model too much like herself, I find the practice even more perplexing in PM’s case.

    It’s the ill-fitted castoffs from a Vulcan/Romulan episode of ST:TNG (circa 1989).

  • Anonymous

    Yes, definite fitting issues.  Yes, the styling is a bit bizarre and dull.  But from a point of view and design place, this is one of the better of the collections we have seen so far.  Faint praise, to be sure.  Some of those peices are really gorgeous from a design standpoint and I think with some additional training on fitting (and people skills) he could have a really great career.  I can’t believe I just said that….

  • https://profiles.google.com/104791269167429064986 Judy S

    This collection is so ugly that I am grateful to T Lo for just looking at it–and taking it seriously. The ugliness is distracting: not just the styling, but the shine of the leather (or whatever it is) that distracts from the actual construction, partly I suppose because it enhances the lack of fit. I have had to look at the pictures about 10 times in order to see the clothes at all–except for the second look, which is matte and therefore easier to assess. I can see after careful inspection that if one could look at the clothes it would be an interesting collection. The use of zippers, and even the absence of them on some pieces that echo the zippered construction, is attractive.

    The only look that has even a hint of sexiness is the gray dress, which is notable in a collection full of zip-off and zip-up pieces and leather. I don’t see this as misogynist so much as a defiance of the role of dress (and therefore bodies) in providing sexual definition and fantasy. There is a humor in the tease of the gyno-mini on the woman with the perfect body who goes home to husband and kids. Oliv[i]er’s clothes have no humor at all. Naked skin is not sexual, it is a defined negative space behind the positive space of the garment. Legs are a mechanism for mobility which need to be carefully defined at the bottom and kept in proportion by the garments.

    • Anonymous

      Very thoughtful comment Judy. I like your observation that Naked skin is not sexual, it is a defined negative space behind the positive space of the garment.  I agree with another poster who stated that Olivier’s garments are joyless, which ties in with your statement that his clothes [and I would add, his styling] have no humor at all.

      All in all, after almost everyone’s comments which agree on the major points, I conclude that he was a sad misfit with Project Runway, in every definition of the word. Culling from several online dictionaries:

      MISFIT:
                 Something that does not fit or fits badly.
                 Something of the wrong size or shape for its purpose.
                 A person not suited in behaviour or attitude to a particular social environment.
                 Someone unable to adapt to their circumstances.

      I came down on Bryce for having no point of view. Certainly Olivier does have a point of view, one which is disturbing to many of us. Unfortunately, I can’t say that I am interested in seeing what else he might have to show us. Possibly that is because it is all too easy with Olivier to interlock his personal traits and eccentricities with his sewing/design/fit skills and issues. {Which was also the issue with Gretchen for many folks.}

      Again, as I noted with Bryce, some of the viewers of the collections in the tents would have known nothing of anyone’s personality on the show, and would have to judge the clothes from a stand-alone viewpoint. What would those folks have to say about Olivier’s talent/skills/vision and possibilities of a successful fashion career? Of course, whether or not they know of his behavior, how he interacts in the future with clients and co-workers/bosses will play a huge part in any future success.

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Colleen-Robinson/48606025 Colleen Robinson

    It’s just not a Project Runway fashion show unless someone sends their model down the runway with her nipples showing.

  • Anonymous

    The eyebrows.  The eyebrows and hair.   So hideous.  Can’t even look at the clothes.  Too queasy over the unabrow.

  • t b

    Is Model #5 Natasha Galkina from that hack modeling show of Tyra Banks? Hard to tell with the eyebrows… and deer in the headlights stare.

    • Anonymous

      Sure looks like her. I thought, it’s that Russian girl who came in second (I think).I couldn’t remember her name off the top of my head. She was the runner-up in cycle 8. That’s where wikipedia comes in handy, as a encyclopedia of reality show details.

      These clothes are sooo ugly, and the eyebrows, I can’t even begin to understand the styling here!

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Karen-Stephens-Bassett/1503492602 Karen Stephens Bassett

    EVERY. SINGLE. PIECE. IS. UGLY.  I still want to know if they played a funeral dirge while the models did their walks.  And the eyebrows…don’t get me started. 

  • Anonymous

    Absolutely the worst styling in human history.

  • Amanda in Austin

    Sweet Jeebus on a breadstick. THE EYEBROWS!!!

  • Anonymous

    Hair and makeup… is he being referential to Frida Khalo or Star Trek?

  • http://twitter.com/obscureobjects David Calder

    Yuck. YUCK. For Olivier, all women need to look like Olivier. Look at the first model — the eyebrows, even the lips — then look at photos of Olivier. They’re HIS EYEBROWS. This kid just seems really self-absorbed, thoughtless, and perhaps a bit dumb.

  • Mary Stuart

    That boy is really into androgyny, isn’t he?

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Catherine-Rhodes/602850414 Catherine Rhodes

    Talk about an eyebrow fetish. Remember the first episode of PR when he won, and the model’s eyebrows were crusted with bark or birdseed or whatever the hell it was?

    I found Precious Moments to be annoying and uninteresting on the show, but I must reluctantly admit that I like a lot of the looks here. There seems to be a germ of an idea. He would be most successful working with a partner who could take these outlines and finish them.

  • Susan Crawford

    I went back and took a second look at a few PR episodes last night, paying attention to Olivierere’s interactions (if I can use that term VERY loosely) with St. Tim of Gunn, and I noticed something. Tim, who is normally the very soul of patience and kindness, seemed utterly stressed and frustrated by this affectless, passive-aggressive little neuter-bot. His critiques were – as always – very thoughtful and insightful and should have been extremely helpful to Precious, but it was as though Tim was trying to speak across the great chasm of the Grand Canyon. He was stymied at every turn. And when Olivierere just could NOT make a single garment in the allotted time, I could see how bewildered, frustrated and annoyed Tim was. Poor Precious. He lost out on the chance to learn from a great mentor.

  • Anonymous

    Olivier seems to be totally lost when it comes to making clothes look good on women. From the beginning — even in the challenge he WON, somehow (coughAnthonywasrobbedcough) — his models always have looked about two sizes larger than the actually are. That critique Bryce got about how his dress looked like the client got it a size bigger and forgot to have it taken in, I think, applies to everything Olivier makes. 

  • Anonymous

    The fashion designer Olivier
    Had a penchant for clothes that were drab and grey.
    When faced with real boobs,
    He ran like all noobz,
    Falling flat (so to speak) on his derri-ay.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=786229820 Rhonda Hanson

    horrible collection, everything is so boxy. And why do designer think a sheer top with no bra is okay. No one wears that.

  • Ella B. Mudge

    Once I stopped staring at the model’s heads, what I kept returning to was that this looked like an Armani minimalism collection with pleather sewn on to it.

  • Warmheartedgirl Seattle

    It just all looks so much like student work.  He needs to mature a bit, get stomped on my some client (if he ever figures out how to get one), and a strong course in time management.  Precious Moments is right!  Sheesh!

  • vmcdanie

    Not sure what the theme is supposed to be with the eyebrows but they are distracting.  I’m not sure Precious Moments was ready to show in this setting yet. There is some borderline bad stuff here and some of it made me laugh and from what I saw of his sense of humor, he seems to completely lack one.

    I liked his black pants and the black dress that you said had ass issues we couldn’t see. Although the asymmetrical hem reminds me of Gretchen and I hate it-not because it reminds me of her per se but I hated that asymmetry jive in her looks as well.

  • http://pinkpolarity.livejournal.com/ Polarity

    This collection really unsettles me, because all I can see is what another poster said, this looks like basically an attempt to de-sex women. There’s nothing that flatters a woman’s body, there’s nothing that looks like he can even tolerate *looking* at a woman’s body. He simply wants to take models and turn them into him, in a way that completely neuters them as women. If you combine this collection with one that’s so full of tiny short skirts and cleavage in a way that’s all “women as spank porn” (has anyone ever done a fashion show that looks like women in the DC Comics reboot?), you’d have a good vision of misogyny in fashion. 

  • http://twitter.com/KathleenGillies Kathleen Gillies

    Not attractive, color story boring, fit is horrible and, yucchhy– even the coats.  If he can’t even make models look good….

  • Anonymous

    Meh. I like the one double zipper skirt and that’s about it. I wish he’d just gone with the styling and given the models cigars and Groucho Marx mustaches, too. 

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002396153672 Ann Martina

    To make the garments fit better he’d actually have to touch the models.  ewwww.

  • Anonymous

    You are being very generous. I do like the first look, the grey vinyl pants and the black tight dress.  The remainder of the collection is extremely unflattering and, well, flat.  Minimalism is hard to pull off and unfortunately he missed the mark.

  • Anonymous

    This was my favorite collection , Although I was certain that it was a decoy. I love the hair and make-up too.

  • Anonymous

    I think his collection was by far one of the best.  Channeling Jil Sander, Alexander Wang….just super cool and modern.  Agreed, some of the companion pieces should have been more finished; however I disagree with the comment about his fit.  I think he’s after that “quasi-boxy”, sort of androgynous fit.  His tailoring and construction are generally really great.

  • Gigi Louis

    Yawn.  And I am completely creeped out by the fact that he styled all of his models to look like himself!

  • Robin Sweeton

    I noticed that all the models were made up to resemble Oliver…specifically in the eyebrows.  Perhaps his ideal mannequin is himself.  I can see him wearing everything he sent down the runway if he could get away with it.

  • akprincess72

    I’m sorry, his clothes are just crap.

  • Anonymous

    This is all crap, it turns women into these shapeless androgynous 10 year old boys.  It is borderline creepy.  The eyebrows only add to the creepy as if he has this whole Sesame Street/Bert fetish going on.  *shudders*

  • http://twitter.com/Rochelle_B1978 rochelle barron

    I was too distracted by the model’s eyebrows to properly take in the clothes at first. At first glance I was like “oh, he’s going for androgyny” (which would have been kinda cool imo) but then I looked again and it hit me: they are styled to look like him.  And I was promptly kinda creeped out by it.

    That aside, its actually not as drab and sad as I thought it would be.  I was expecting nothing but greys and whites and the leather (though the execution is lacking) but I’m not shocked there’s nothing that “pops”.  I wonder if he had time management issues because, honestly, none of this looks quite finished and they all seem to have fit issues.  It seems like this is a collection where the execution falls far short of the concept.

  • http://orangtunes.blogspot.com BIG MAC

    He really should have just used male models. He practically made them duplicates of him, I know he wanted to. 

    • Anonymous

      Wow. He really hates women. Very disturbing.

      • Anonymous

        Yes, that was my first thought too.  He seems to want to make them more masculine, but then they also seem devoid of warmth.  The models seem to be a cross between androids and Groucho Marx.  Oliver seems to see women as souless objects to hold up his clothes.  Remember in the movie The Dark Knight when we were all creeped out by the Joker’s makeup?  It was self-deprecating and frightening at the same time.  it was a visual into his madness.  This collection’s look reminds me of that.   I will remember this feeling long after I have forgotten the clothes. 

  • Anonymous

    Looking past the odd (but unique) styling and poor contructions skills, I really do like SOME of the pieces Olivier made here -particularly the jackets, even though they aren’t really meant for the female figure, and the leather dresses; everything else not so much. Like everyone else, I despised all the rude comments he made on the show, but I don’t think he’s a bad person or a bad designer because of what he said. It wasn’t like he was making fun of his clients’ figures or anything to be mean. I’d like to see where he’ll be in a few years-by then he’ll definitely will have improved and maybe then he’ll know not to call people “fat” again.
    Please don’t hate me since I’m one of the few people who sees promise in Olivier’s ideas!

  • Coco Cornejo

    Have you ever read Edwin Abbott’s Flatland? I’ve decided that’s where Olivier is from. 

    Here’s a description from Amazon: 

    How would a creature limited to two dimensions be able to grasp the possibility of a third? Edwin A. Abbott’s droll and delightful “romance of many dimensions” explores this conundrum in the experiences of his protagonist, A Square, whose linear world is invaded by an emissary Sphere bringing the gospel of the third dimension.